Ignition Switch Issue Or Not

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

edwonbass

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
132
Reaction score
0
Location
Columbia, MD
Hey Folks, I just started running the outboard on the tin I restored. Two weeks ago I got her on the water and she started right up. I drove around for a few miles and shut it down to fish some. I tried to start it back up after 45 minutes and when I turned the key I got nothing. No click, no sound. I turned the key to the on position and pulled the cord and she fired right up. I shut it down later and had no issues restarting. This past weekend I took the boat out Saturday and she fired right up. After about 30 minutes or so I tried to shut off the motor with the key and it wouldn't turn off. It did shut off with the kill switch at the throttle control. Sunday I launch and once again had to start it with the pull rope. Through out the day starting and stopping the motor with the key was hit or miss. When it wouldn't start I would mess around with the shift lever to make sure it was in neutral and bump the key but still no start.

Motor is a 1994 Mercury 2 stroke 25hp with electric start remote steering, shifting, and shifting. Control is a Quicksilver 3000. The boat is a 1994 Spectrum Dominator 16 and I wouldn't be surprised if that is the original ignition switch. The previous owner had it a couple of years and never covered. Before that who knows.

I figured I would ask the fine folks here that would know about small outboards!
Thanks,
Ed
 
I would make sure all electrical connections at the ign switch and the battery are shiny clean

bad connections can make things act real strange

I have experience with this lol
 
^^^ Definitely Step 1 clean your electrical connections.

You can test the starter by connecting the post on the starter solenoid that the switch energizes directly to the positive power of the battery with a jumper wire. Your starter should turn right over & confirm both the solenoid and the starter are working properly & the only other issue would be the switch or the connections at the battery.

I'll put the tester to the kill switch on mine (same motor) and see if it's normally open or closed. I'm inclined to think it's normally open, which would make the switch the most likely culprit.
 
OK so a little update. I ignored everyone's advise and just replaced the ignition switch. :LOL2: So the situation has not changed. This time it still doesn't start but seems to shut off with the key.
It will start with the key in the on position and with one pull of the rope.
I know at least one of the connections to the switch is good. As I was taking the ignition switch out, the two black wires connected to "M" just fell out of the crimp so I fixed that. I pulled on the others and they seems solid.
Once the neighbors are awake I will start with cleaning the connections and then test the starter and solenoid as onthewater suggested. :oops:
 
Update on the update. I'm now a fan of cleaning connections! I took some sand paper to the connections at the battery and wouldn't you know it, she starts right up!! :D I did jump a wire from the battery to the solenoid and since that started it up I figured that the connections were in need of cleaning.
Funny though, all the electronics, lights, and pumps worked. I'm guessing it was the big wires to the starter.
I think I walked a mile to go a yard!

Thanks guys!
 
Now that you have it clean touch all the contacts up with a little dielectric grease & it will help keep them clean for you.
 
edwonbass said:
I'm guessing it was the big wires to the starter.
On the connectors, where the ring terminal goes over the battery post, can you see any exposed wires? Some 'ear;y
connectors did not fully encapsulate the wires and corrosion can build up in them.

You can also do a resistance check to the cables. I bought a used OB where I had to cut back the wires 4 to 6" to get back to fresh copper wire and then re-crimped them. I also sealed the ends (less the ring part) in adhesive-lined heatshrink, with black 5200 on the ends. Bullet-proof so far!
 
I don't recall any exposed wires at the terminals. The rings were pretty much black! I just took some fine sand paper to them. They shine nice now!

Also good call on the grease onthewater.

I'm very pleased with this motor. 16' tin bassboat, 12 gallons of gas, 3 batteries, wood decks, and all my fishing gear and I got 25MPH out of her! At least half of the gas in that tank is over a year old. I did store it with stabil over the winter. I'm trying to run it out so I can see what happens with fresh gas.

Thanks guys!!!
 
That's a good question that I don't know the answer to. I bought the boat October of last year well used. I have not changed the prop and don't really know what is on there. I don't really know much about props. I'm not able to see any numbers stamped or written on it. For all I know it could be a part off a crashed UFO. :LOL2:
I would like to find out though so I can get a back up.
 

Latest posts

Top