Jack Plate vs Tilt and Trim

[NA3VY]

I have a 16ft Alumacraft with the semi V bow. I have a 1983 25hp 2 stroke Suzuki on it. I am soon to be 74 and manhandling the motor to get it tilted up to mount the transom saver gets harder every day, and I understand the function of trim to improve motor performance. I have located T&T from CMC and Bob's Marine. Bob's also makes a combo unit that does both. Only occasionally do I venture into shallow water, but isn't that one of the uses of a trrolling motor??

I've also thought about adding a whales tail to the motor.

Comments Please

 

[LDUBS]

I'll comment about the tilt & trim. Being roughly the same age, I no longer want to be muscling things around. My last two motors had T&T. In a nutshell it is a terrific option. Makes raising the outboard easy as pie. Trimming the motor while underway is huge. I have no ideas the cost of the units you mention. If you think it reasonable, then my opinion is it is well worth adding.

 

[NA3VY]

I wish I could afford ($1800.00) Bob's Marine combo unit. T&T unit is about $800 by itself to add. I just can't figure out if the extra cost of having jacking plate makes sense. Most of my fishing is in 30-40 ft water.

 

[LDUBS]

I can't help you with the jack plate part of the equation. I"ve never used one. I don't know the benefits beyond help in skinny water.

I had no idea of the cost for adding T&T. IMO, if someone is ready to put that into the boat, it is a pretty decent upgrade. It is a lot cheaper than a new motor with T&T. If you ever need to replace the Suzuki, you can use it with the new motor. To me, I would confirm it is going to do what I want. Then it comes down to whether it will help me enjoy the boat and of course if I have the funds.

 

[Skunked again]

The Jackplate (especially a powered unit) will help optimizing engine performance. Helps to find “the sweet spot”, whether rough water, a change in boat load, or both.
If you’re already happy with engine performance- hole shot, top end, rpm at wide open throttle, then I’d just get the tilt/trim, save the money and be happy.
A note- most people that get a Jackplate, set it and forget it.
When you order the tilt and trim, ask what the extra setback will do for your particular boat.

 

[Tinny Fleet]

I'm in a similar age bracket and predicament.

One way to look at it is to lighten the motor, rather than invest in a bunch of fancy gizzmoes. So what I have done with all my boats that have removeable motors (i.e 10' to 14' semi V's and johnboats) is to shed everything I can't easily hoist up on the transom which means anything larger than my 15hp Evinrude 2 stroke. At somewhere around 100 lbs it tilts easily by hand, and nothing electronic to fail either. What I got rid of was a 25, 35 and a 60. Leaving 15, 9.9 and 6hp. It was a painful set of decisions, but necessary.

I don't need to have the fastest boat out there, just the most reliable, that I can manage by myself.

This comment excludes the two larger tinny's I have that have "permanently" mounted motors: one a 90 hp and one a 50hp.

 

[Floppy leg]

I have a 4 stroke 6 hp tilt has a 17 inch shaft cannot afford a new one how can I raise 5 inches my Stearn has a 4 inch kind of a notch how can I raise it

 

[airshot]

I have a 16ft Alumacraft with the semi V bow. I have a 1983 25hp 2 stroke Suzuki on it. I am soon to be 74 and manhandling the motor to get it tilted up to mount the transom saver gets harder every day, and I understand the function of trim to improve motor performance. I have located T&T from CMC and Bob's Marine. Bob's also makes a combo unit that does both. Only occasionally do I venture into shallow water, but isn't that one of the uses of a trrolling motor??

I've also thought about adding a whales tail to the motor.

Comments Please

Been in boats for over 60 yrs, so here is my two cents worth...whale tails should be last resort, try shifting weight around to get the right balance, but they can work if all else fails. Never been impressed with jack plates unless you have high hp motors, only then can they be really beneficial. T&T is another animal, being adjustable while underway can add speed and make your engine run better/ more effieciently than just hanging there. Recently bought an outboard boat/ motor with T&T and what a difference it makes on the 16' tinnie. Had it on my 22' boat and it was great but not as noticible as the improvement on my 16'. I know it isnt cheap to add it on, only you can determine whether to upgrade your current motor or replace it with one that has it. I will have T&T on any future boats I purchase, once tou have it and see how much it helps, you wont go without it !!

 

[wmk0002]

It's probably not recommended, but I've see a lot of rigs (duck boats especially) that have a manual jack plate stacked with a T&T unit. Personally, I dont see how it would be an issue especially on smaller hp outboards like yours. The only issue I see id getting too much setback which can make it uncomfortable if you are running a tiller in terms of reaching back to crank the motor and work choke. Can also bind up remote steering cables .

Vance manufacturing makes a manual jackplate with only 3" of setback if you wanted to explore that option. The Bobs T&T units are better than the CMC based on all the reviews I have read. I personally have a Panther 55(?) which I would not recommend due to it being a linear actuated motor vs hydraulics. It's slow and I just don't trust it since if water gets into it, its game over.

Vance JPL4300 3'' Setback Adjustable Outboard Boat Jack Plate

 

[C&K]

The Bobs T&T units are better than the CMC based on all the reviews I have read.

What would be so much better about Bob's vs CMC? They're basically the same thing, different company. Just maybe the fact that Bob's Machine builds them for small outboards, where the CMC units are bigger and more expensive? We've had a CMC unit on our boat for a long time because the stock pump from Mercury quit and they are impossible to source anymore. So just pull the factory T&T off it and put the CMC unit on there. With the adjustable jackplate, can set the engine to the proper height no matter what the loading of the boat is, have never had a single problem with it.

 

[wmk0002]

What would be so much better about Bob's vs CMC? They're basically the same thing, different company. Just maybe the fact that Bob's Machine builds them for small outboards, where the CMC units are bigger and more expensive? We've had a CMC unit on our boat for a long time because the stock pump from Mercury quit and they are impossible to source anymore. So just pull the factory T&T off it and put the CMC unit on there. With the adjustable jackplate, can set the engine to the proper height no matter what the loading of the boat is, have never had a single problem with it.View attachment 113744

The CMC's will break the lugs at the lower clevis fitting for the cylinder if you hit something. I do think it is more prevalent on the smaller version for 35hp and under outboards though. The larger one like you have may not have that issue. I just looked and THMarine sells a lower clevis fitting for the PT35 but not the larger PT130 so that somewhat supports that theory. It's only $20, so not an expensive fix, but that is assuming there is no damage where it attaches the motor mounting surface. I would assume the OP would get the smaller one if he is running a 25hp. I have also seen where you can buy beefed up clevis fittings from machinists who make them on the side. I think the pad up the lugs and thicken the doubler plate.

The disclaimer on all of this though, is that these breaks are all common on duck hunters' boats. They abuse their stuff running wide open through milk chocolate colored flooded timber. Probably not a big issue for the average fisherman. I put a link below to an example of the failure I'm referencing.

Sheared CMC PT-35

 

[wmk0002]

Also worth mentioning, when I run my small outboards, I always keep them in the unlocked position so they can, in theory, swing up if I hit an object underwater. Not sure that will do much good at any decent speed but it can't hurt. Its definitely helpful when idling through shallow stump fields.

 

[Skunked again]

I have a 4 stroke 6 hp tilt has a 17 inch shaft cannot afford a new one how can I raise 5 inches my Stearn has a 4 inch kind of a notch how can I raise it

I just did this very thing. Laminated 3 pieces (2 pieces are full width, 1 is narrower, cause I ran out of wood and too cheap to buy another!) of 3/4”, tried to paint it to match, bolted onto transom.
Raised the engine close to proper height, gave an additional 4” of freeboard on the transom.
See attached pictures.

 

[C&K]

The disclaimer on all of this though, is that these breaks are all common on duck hunters' boats. They abuse their stuff running wide open through milk chocolate colored flooded timber. Probably not a big issue for the average fisherman. I put a link below to an example of the failure I'm referencing.

Sheared CMC PT-35

I guess I had never heard of that one yet. But it begs the question, without a breakaway what else gets destroyed if they didn't have a PT-35 on there? Bust the entire lower unit and gearcase? Or tear the transom out of the boat?

 

[bbot1967]

That 25hp motor might be a smidge under optimal power for the boat so don't through out the idea of getting a little bigger motor with T&T this time. I try for the max rating of the boat. Yeah, more money at some things vs others, everyone can't do that.

Whale tails help lift the back to get on plane easier but they're a nuisance and I'd consider it a last resort. I seen others feel the same.

Composite propeller might help you out here. They have their shortfalls, worst I think don't ever hit anything it, but I've found on one of my boats for it to be a huge deal. Smaller diameter than the original stainless that I keep as backup but 4 blades instead of 3. A lot more torque for getting on plane quick and easy plus in my case more speed as well. This was for a boat rated 90hp but I only have 70hp.