John's River Jon

[FuzzyGrub]

OK, the mild winter means I'll getting an earlier start to the project. I stared long and hard at her, for a number of months, time for the work to start.

Here are the General Requirements:
This shall be a river fishing boat. Slow to medium rivers with the Susquehanna and Mohawk Rivers being the primary waterways. Also should be appropriate for flatwater upto 500 acres. Primary species, smallmouth bass, walleye, and muskie. Should fit two people comfortably, and squeeze three, on occasion. Construction should add as little weight as possible. No closed off compartments or sections to hold water. No carpet. Should be easy to wash down. Desire to have top wot, w 2 adults and gear of 25MPH. No livewell required, but should have space planing for a removable cooler style (very rare), or airated minnow bucket.

Starting Baseline:

1995 DMI 1648 Mod-V Jon Boat
Welded seams, rivited ribs
Discovery Marine Inc, Preble NY
Out of Business
Bench Seats Removed by previous owner-needs floatation foam
No dents, leaks, or rot
Good overall condition

1998 Mercury 25Hp Outboard
2 Stroke, premix, 6 gal tank
Manual and Electric Start
Short Shaft, Tiller
13P Prop
Excellent Condition

Unknown Make Trailer
Older welded tube construction
12" 4 lug wheels
Easy to launch and retreive boat
Rollers, bunks, lights, bearings to be checked/repaired
Needs repaint

Constraints:

Construction:
Limited ability to cut aluminum
No ability to bend or weld aluminum
Complete in March/April - Possible two phases (2012/2013)

Budget:
$600 Materials Only, alum, wood, screws, paint, etc
$100 Wiring, Switch Panel, terminals, sheathing

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Layout Requirements:

Floor/Sides:
Alum Sheet Over Floatation Foam
Bedliner applied paint (sand)
Water draining channels, glued foam, screw to ribs alum sheet

Front Step Deck:
Trolling Motor Mount
Two Existing Anchor Rope Ties
Anchor Holder
Anchor Rope Management
FF Station
Add additional Support

Front Casting Deck:
59" W by 42" L
Height: Near Original Bench Seat Top
Removable Pedestal Butt Seat
Two Large Side Hatches
Access to Battery/Wiring
1/2" Ext Plywood on aluminum Frame
Bedliner Surface (sand)

Rear Casting Deck/Side Seating:
64" W by 44" L
Height: Near Original Bench Seat Top
Removable or Flipable Center Section
Two Main Storage Areas
Switch Panel Enclosure
FF Mount
Gas and Storage Bin in Stearn Section
1/2" Ext. Plywood w/aluminum supports
Bedliner Surface (sand)

Other:
Two Rod Racks (along each Side)
Passenger Seat Behind Front Deck (Able to Oar)
Oar Holders
Four Rod Holders
Four Corner Anchor Tiedowns
Raise motor mounting 2"
Transom Backsplash Protection
Cup, tool, lure holders front and back
50" Measuring tapes, front and back

Electrical Requirements:

Single Deep Cycle Battery System:
Located under front deck
Rear Switch Panel
50A Trolling Motor Mnaual Reset Breaker
40A Manual Reset Panel Breaker
Elec Start Connecttion and Switch (50A)
Onboard Charger (10A)
Wiring run in the side chines

Loads:
MG 45lb Thrust Wireless Trolling Motor
Bilge Pump
Nav Light
Anchor Light
Rear FF Station
Front FF Station
Aux Outlet
LED Lighting

This is a general layout plan but it is of a pic of a Lowe 1648:

 

[hsiftac]

Looks like a solid and comfortable boat, looking forward to seeing what you do to it

 

[KevinWI]

has potential written all over it. We have the same motor.
Your budget is light...especially for electrical.

 

[fool4fish1226]

Good canvas to work with, I will be watching this one

 

[FuzzyGrub]

has potential written all over it. We have the same motor.
Your budget is light...especially for electrical.

Yea, trying to be aggressive there. I do have allot of the materials on hand. I should have most of the wire and connectors, and sheath. I do need a new panel though.

Three 4x8 sheets of aluminum and one 4x8 ext plywood, plus bedliner type paint takes the biggest chunk. The misc stuff does add up quick though.

If I actually come in at a grand, will be happy!

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Got her in the garage and all the mechanical items removed, this evening.

Looks like, for my floor/sides, I need:

- Two 4' X 8' X 1.5" sheets of foam
- Two 4' X 8' X 0.040" sheets of aluminum or (one 4' X 10' and one 4' X 8' for a no seam floor)
- Two 10' X 1.5" X 1.5" X 1/8" Alum angle

 

[Pweisbrod]

I have never once in my life taken the time to plan out a project like this, I always end up buying things willy nilly, changing everything as I go along, and spending far more than anyone (wife) planned! 8)

I will be following!

 

[DyerBassman]

Wow! Talk about extensive planning! Can't wait to follow your progress!

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Back from the store. Not the best day to be buying large wind catching items

2 - 1/2" x 4' X 8' ACX = $65
2 - 1.5" X 4' X 8' Styrofoam (blue) = $63
2 - 0.040" X 4' X 10' Alum Sheet = $163
Cut and bend one sheet, no charge

Total: $291 or about half my materials budget!


I did my last boat with much less planning, but think there are allot of projects here that have me beat! I kinda plan the high level stuff, and then work out the details as I go.

 

[elcapitanmas]

looking forward to the progress, my last boat had the same motor, LOVED IT

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Cleaned the boat out and cut the foam to the floor width. Most were 12" wide, with one 11.5" and another 12.5". Cut with a dull hacksaw blade.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

OK, I have to figure out the main wiring before I can put the sides on. Here is what I came up with:

Circuit #1: Bow FF / Nav Light, 16ga wire, 3A inline fuse (nav light is a tall plug-in to get over the trolling motor)
Circuit #2: Trolling Motor, 8ga wire, 40A manual reset breaker
Circuit #3: Engine, 6ga wire, 50A manual reset breaker
Circuit #4: Electrical Panel, 10ga wire, 30A manual reset breaker

Circuit Panel: 6 gang
- Anchor Light
- Bilge Pump
- Stearn FF
- LED Lighting
- Aux 1
- Aux 2

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Loose fitted styrofoam:

Aluminum sides, loose in place:

 

[FuzzyGrub]

1st Delemma:

While the ribs are 1.5" high and the insulation is 1.5" thick, the foam is riding higher. This is becase the foam sits on the rib flange. This is aout 3/32". The difference in height will be noticeable over time, as the alum cold rolls, from walking over it.

NOTE: Measured crossbeam material thickness with calipers: 0.100", or a little more than my estimate of 3/32".

Possible solutions:

- Cut all the foam blocks back, allowing flat surface.

- Run a caulk bead down each rib before installing sheets.

- Find something that is 1.5" W X 3/32 thick, and apply to all ribs. Also could lay under foam for a slight gap for water drainage. I like this thought the best, so far, if I could find some that is cheap and easy to apply.

I have decided to take the extra 10' X 15" alum sheet back to have in cut into 3" strips, and bent at 90 degree angle. I'll use this for the top cap of the side panels instead of angle alum.



PS: A couple of ribs have some weld that needs to be ground down.

 

[elcapitanmas]

looking good so far, I have to keep an eye on this build as I'm planning on doing something similar. What are you using the ply wood for?

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Plywood is for the front and rear decks, along with a box for mid-seat, and rear deck compartments. Two sheets plus the scrap I have "should" be enough.

Busy work week, with travel. Hope to get the alum floor/sides done this coming weekend.

 

[JMichael]

I was faced with the same problem when fitting my foam in the floor and the rib rivets held the foam up. After getting all my pieces cut to size, I made a few quick cuts with the table saw and removed ¾" wide by ¼" deep around the bottom side edge of the bottom piece of foam. Pic's removed so it doesn't clutter up your build thread.

 

[Bob Landry]

has potential written all over it. We have the same motor.
Your budget is light...especially for electrical.

I agree. having done marine wiring for the last 15 years and also having been involved in insurance claims where shoddy work and cheap materials and in some cases just an unfortunate "Aw, S**t" were the cause of a boat fire, I can tell you that this is not where you want to skimp. Marine wiring is subject to a lot of vibration and mechanical stress and strange things can happen. This is where you want to use stranded pretinned marine wire, quality connectors and adhesive line heat shrink. Go to this link, https://www.paneltronics.com/ip.asp?op=Tech_ABYC and download the two PDFs. They are excerpts from the latest ABYC manual on marine wiring and they are free. Fuse and circuit breaker protection is very important, not only from a size standpoint, but also location. You can't know too much about this stuff and you can never know it all.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Progress, slower than expected

- Ran 1/2" PVC down both sides to use as conduit for the main power wires. I was unable to do as one continuous piece (too tight between the ribs). Ran short pieces behind each rib, and then cut to fit for the rest. Ran snake wires down each to pull the fish tape through.

- Drilled small drain holes, three on each side of the ribs to allow draining down the center.

- Ground the few welds down to make sure they will not deform the sheet metal.

- Vacuumed out the shavings and debris.

- Did final foor drain rib washdown. Added some bleach to the water to kill any mold, etc where I can't scrub. Rinsed out. New drain holes seem to be working.

- I am using stick-on vynel floor tile for my spacing. It is slightly less than the alum thickness, but should be close enough. Ten 12" squares, cut into 1.5" stips. Stacked and cut with skill saw.

It needs to warm up a little bit so I can put JB Weld in the crossbeam divots.

Golf Club Tubes will be used for the under deck part of the rod holders.