Johnson 3 cyl 35 hp - Runs for while then dies

[Florida_Native]

Not sure then, I have almost the same motor. A 97 evinrude 25hp however mine is a 2 cylinder. Thing runs like a champ.

When it dies, is the primer bulb still hard?


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[Pappy]

Sounds like you replaced the power pack only.
If you scroll back up to page one I told you to replace both the pack and the eye. They should be replaced together.
Florida Native....your engine isn't even close to these 3-cylinder engines!

 

[Florida_Native]

Sounds like you replaced the power pack only.
If you scroll back up to page one I told you to replace both the pack and the eye. They should be replaced together.
Florida Native....your engine isn't even close to these 3-cylinder engines!

Yeah a lot better I guess!


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[rktman]

It seems odd the electric eye would be affected by heat, since its not a coil type device but I'll try anything at this point.

 

[perchjerker]

It seems odd the electric eye would be affected by heat, since its not a coil type device but I'll try anything at this point.

any electronic component can be affected by heat

 

[Pappy]

It seems odd the electric eye would be affected by heat, since its not a coil type device but I'll try anything at this point.

Rktman - I know you may not trust what I am telling you. May ease your mind to read profiles of those who are trying to guide you once in a while, no matter the forum you are in.

 

[rktman]

No offense intended pap, just have to spend money carefully on a 17 year old motor.
I really dislike the replace it and see what happens method but apparently there is no way to test the Electric eye sensor.

 

[perchjerker]

No offense intended pap, just have to spend money carefully on a 17 year old motor.
I really dislike the replace it and see what happens method but apparently there is no way to test the Electric eye sensor.

If you take Pappy's advice you ARE spending your money carefully

 

[Pappy]

Wasn't offended in the least. You will get a lot of recommendations here that are either solid or can cost you one Hell of a lot of money. By reading the profiles sometimes you gain insight into who may have a better chance of helping.
Hey, sometimes I don't take my own advice!
I own (4) of the 3-clyinder Looper 25/35 engines and had your same issue this spring. The engine I am talking about was a 1996 or 20 years old. Doesn't owe me a dime at this point.
I popped a pack on it and Lesa and I made it about 15 miles and poof. Luckily we were sort of on our way back. The trolling motor took us a full 9 miles back to the ramp. Did what I knew I should have done to begin with and put the eye on there and was good to go. Not to say there is a guarantee to anything I ever recommend doing but the best dealers out there were replacing both as a pair on the 60 degree V-4 and V-6 engines to keep comebacks to a minimum. It's not like we knew everything, dealers taught us as well as engineering did and whatever advice I give is based on one Hell of a lot of experience. Nothing more nothing less.

 

[rktman]

I replaced the timing base/electric eye and ran it for 2-3 hours with no problems. Thanks for the advice Pappy.

 

[Pappy]

Great! Thanks for letting us know.

 

[rbdingwe]

If you replace a pack replace the sensor with it. (The electric eye)

I have just started having the exact same problem with my 1997 Johnson 35hp. I had replaced the power pack 3 years ago but this is the first time I ran into the complete shut-down problem while running at full throttle for 5 to 10 minutes. When you say "replace the sensor", what part are you referring to. Is this sensor located next to the spark plugs? I found a picture in a manual for 35hp Johnson motors but I can't seem to paste it in these notes.

 

[rktman]

Its the pickup sensor under the flywheel (replace at the same time as powerpack). I think its OMC part # 0584824, but I would double check on boats.net or similar for your model number.

(Sent via PM also)

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Honestly, I've been afraid to shock myself to check but I will get an inline spark tester and check it this weekend.

Just take the shock.

I used to collect Homelite chainsaws and the easy test to check for a bad capacitor if you had spark issues was to hold the plug wire while pulling the motor over.

If you felt one zap the capacitor was good, if you felt three distinct zaps the cap was not doing its job.

I’m mum mum mosstly oak oak OK after du ddoing thi thi this fu fu for ye ye years. :x

 

[RaisedByWolves]

"Sputtered and died" is not a good enough description to go on.
What RPM were you normally running at when this happened? On plane? Idle?
Did the engine shut down as if you turned off the key so to speak?
Hint here is that a fuel issue will be less abrupt than ignition issues.
If you try and start the engine immediately after one of these shut downs what happens?
If it will not do anything no matter what you try then later starts if nothing ever happened that would be good information as well.
Fill in the gaps here and we can start on it.
I would not remove a plug and hold it against the block by the way. Plug wires are short enough that the spark may catch the fuel blowing out of the cylinder and light it off. Inline spark checker is the easiest followed by mechanical spark checker.

Thanks for replying Pappy,

Full RPMs and on plane when it cuts out (after the first 15-20 min of running)
It does not quite shut off all the way. It will idle a few seconds and then finally die out like its being starved for fuel (primer bulb pumping does not help, vent is open, fuel system seems unrestricted). Water is coming out the pee hole at the normal rate.
After a little while (30sec -1 min), it does start back up and will even get to full RPMs and back on plane for 10-15 secs (thankfully it will get me over a thin shoal before it cuts out again). The longer it sets the longer I can run (especially with case off).
I went by the parts store and purchased an inline tester, will try it out as soon as possible.
A buddy mentioned that it might be the thermal sensor throwing it into slow mode, not sure how to check that without replacing.

It is a jet and not real easy to try the hairdryer trick.

Here’s what a motor in limp mode due to a bad temp sensor acts like, overheat condition should be the same.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UwMU9Q5_XP0&feature=youtu.be

 

[rktman]

Honestly, I've been afraid to shock myself to check but I will get an inline spark tester and check it this weekend.

Just take the shock.

I used to collect Homelite chainsaws and the easy test to check for a bad capacitor if you had spark issues was to hold the plug wire while pulling the motor over.

If you felt one zap the capacitor was good, if you felt three distinct zaps the cap was not doing its job.

I’m mum mum mosstly oak oak OK after du ddoing thi thi this fu fu for ye ye years. :x

Its been 5 years since that post but yeah mine is fixed, lol.
The reason this thread is active is because someone else was having a similar problem.

 

[rktman]

"Sputtered and died" is not a good enough description to go on.
What RPM were you normally running at when this happened? On plane? Idle?
Did the engine shut down as if you turned off the key so to speak?
Hint here is that a fuel issue will be less abrupt than ignition issues.
If you try and start the engine immediately after one of these shut downs what happens?
If it will not do anything no matter what you try then later starts if nothing ever happened that would be good information as well.
Fill in the gaps here and we can start on it.
I would not remove a plug and hold it against the block by the way. Plug wires are short enough that the spark may catch the fuel blowing out of the cylinder and light it off. Inline spark checker is the easiest followed by mechanical spark checker.

Thanks for replying Pappy,

Full RPMs and on plane when it cuts out (after the first 15-20 min of running)
It does not quite shut off all the way. It will idle a few seconds and then finally die out like its being starved for fuel (primer bulb pumping does not help, vent is open, fuel system seems unrestricted). Water is coming out the pee hole at the normal rate.
After a little while (30sec -1 min), it does start back up and will even get to full RPMs and back on plane for 10-15 secs (thankfully it will get me over a thin shoal before it cuts out again). The longer it sets the longer I can run (especially with case off).
I went by the parts store and purchased an inline tester, will try it out as soon as possible.
A buddy mentioned that it might be the thermal sensor throwing it into slow mode, not sure how to check that without replacing.

It is a jet and not real easy to try the hairdryer trick.

Here’s what a motor in limp mode due to a bad temp sensor acts like, overheat condition should be the same.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UwMU9Q5_XP0&feature=youtu.be

That's not what the 3 cyl acts like when the sensor eye is going bad.