Leaks fix

[Loggerhead Mike]

ive got a few if you need to borrow one :---)

 

[Brine]

the tool you need is a recipricating rotary hydraulic chisel socket, equipped with a die grinding pneumatic faulkner lathe bit, preferably with the laser guide.

CRAP! mine is pnuematic not hydraulic. I called Home Depot and they said they have a few left on the shelf tho. Be right back!

 

[sirslurpee]

I just talked to my grandfather (retired toolmaker) and he seems to think he can make a tool, like a pin-punch but with a concave head, for rebucking rivets. We're gonna try it tomorrow. I'll definitely post back with results.

 

[sirslurpee]

We worked on it today.. probably a dozen and a half rivets that showed signs of leaks. I held a sledge underneath while my grandfather banged on the rivets with a ball-peen. Any we couldn't get to, I sealed with the Cabelas aluminum boat patch. We're thinking about painting it with steelflex up to the water line. I wanna paint the rest of the boat too, inside and out, but he's leaning against it. Any suggestions/praises/complaints about steelflex? Should I primer underneath the steelflex? Also I'm wondering how hard it will be to just paint up part of the hull with steelflex and the rest with normal paint.. Maybe I should paint it first down past the waterline, then steelflex a couple of inches above the waterline?

 

[Brine]

I thinik the steelflex is a nice product. I applied it about a month or so ago. I've yet to put my boat in the water, but I think it's one of the best mods for $65 you can do to a boat with a riveted hull. I think so long as you go up to the highest line of rivets in below water line, you've done what you should. There is no reason to primer underneath the steelflex, all you have to do is scuff up the boat then wipe it down with acetone then a tack free cloth. Jerry at Fasco will be happy to explain the process to you. The warmer the weather, the better for applying it. If I had to do it over, I would wait for 80*F to put it on, but mid 70's will work. Paint will not want to stick to Steelflex, as one of the members on here already found out, so that's why I say, I would only paint as high as the highest set of rivets below waterline. If you look at my build, you will see that I went overkill with sanding. There is no reason to take it down to bare aluminum. Just scuff the surface, and plan on applying the second coat a few hours after the first while the first coat is still tacky (like masking tape). If you decide to buy it, post up a day or two before you plan to apply it and I will fill you in on some of the specifics that will probably help you.

 

[ober51]

We worked on it today.. probably a dozen and a half rivets that showed signs of leaks. I held a sledge underneath while my grandfather banged on the rivets with a ball-peen. Any we couldn't get to, I sealed with the Cabelas aluminum boat patch. We're thinking about painting it with steelflex up to the water line. I wanna paint the rest of the boat too, inside and out, but he's leaning against it. Any suggestions/praises/complaints about steelflex? Should I primer underneath the steelflex? Also I'm wondering how hard it will be to just paint up part of the hull with steelflex and the rest with normal paint.. Maybe I should paint it first down past the waterline, then steelflex a couple of inches above the waterline?

I wrote this in my boat mod thread:

Here is what I learned about applying Steel Flex:

1. Have a good workspace with no wind. The wind was fine and only blew twice, but once at the very beginning, putting debris on everything. I will now keep the stuff shielded by something, or put it in a cardboard box.
2. Although this is clearly stated in the directions and by others on here, mix the pigment in first. This will ensure a proper color throughout and will not increase hardening at all.
3. Work fast, but efficiently. The stuff sets quickly, so mixing a small portion at a time will help out. The only draw back is having to mix the 2 parts more often, which for me, was the worst part.
4. Don't try and pour out the stuff, use something else, like a cup or a ladle (which I will be using for the next coat).
5. Be as precise as possible - measuring them equally is very important, try not to eyeball. Too much hardener, and it will set even more quickly.
6. Try not to backtrack. Put enough on your brush to get it on the boat (or other surface), apply it, and move on. By trying to be perfect, especially with the black, you will get brushstrokes.
7. Don't panic. The more important thing is to seal the boat - and you can always order more or put on another coat.
---

I applied the second coat today: just sanded the first with some 60 grit, lightly, and reapplied. Much easier, much better. The worst part of Steel Flex is mixing, in my opinion, but well worth it. It creates such a solid barrier, I think it will protect the hull for a long time. I probably wouldn't get black again, only because brush strokes are always more visible. I would like to get that nice blue or get it tinted maroon (which you can do, but you have to do it on your own, since FASCO's color pallet is limited).

I would recommend using it - just be aware that it's very far from paint. This is likely not a big deal for some, but for a guy who never used a two-part epoxy, it was a challenge.

 

[ober51]

SO I need to add something to my Steel Flex comments:

The hotter it is the easier it is to work with. I initially used it in 58 degrees, and it was awful. I used it yesterday in 88 degrees, so easy. Mixed so much more easily and was a pleasure to work with, lol. Don't use it when it's lower than 70, heed Jerry from FASCO's advice!

Also, how did those rivets come out? I have about 15-20 I need to retighten, so I was wondering how the sledge and balpreen hammer worked? I am just too worried that I will damage it when I do it, so if you could tell me what exactly to do, that would be awesome. Thanks again, good luck with the Steel Flex.

 

[sirslurpee]

I haven't gotten a chance to float it yet.. I think Wednesday the weather should be nice enough to get out.

One thing about rebucking the rivets: one side is rounded, and the other should be flat. Peen the flat side. (which happened to be the inside of the hull on my boat)

 

[ober51]

I haven't gotten a chance to float it yet.. I think Wednesday the weather should be nice enough to get out.

One thing about rebucking the rivets: one side is rounded, and the other should be flat. Peen the flat side. (which happened to be the inside of the hull on my boat)

Ok, just checked, mine seem to be on the outside. I am looking forward to seeing how well it worked. Oh, how hard did you hit them? After you hit them, did you notice a difference? And, I should use the peen end of the hammer right?

 

[Ouachita]

I haven't gotten a chance to float it yet.. I think Wednesday the weather should be nice enough to get out.

One thing about rebucking the rivets: one side is rounded, and the other should be flat. Peen the flat side. (which happened to be the inside of the hull on my boat)

That is not correct. You will need to put your backer on the tail end (flat) of the rivet which will be inside the boat. You will tap on the rounded end of the rivet which will be on the outside. Tapping on the round end will cause the backed up tail end to flatten out more and this will tighten the rivet. It doesn't take too much of a hit. Ideally you should have a rivet set to place over the round end so you don't mishape it. Practice with some above the waterline to get a feel for it.

 

[sirslurpee]

That is not correct. You will need to put your backer on the tail end (flat) of the rivet which will be inside the boat. You will tap on the rounded end of the rivet which will be on the outside. Tapping on the round end will cause the backed up tail end to flatten out more and this will tighten the rivet. It doesn't take too much of a hit. Ideally you should have a rivet set to place over the round end so you don't mishape it. Practice with some above the waterline to get a feel for it.

You know, I was kind of thinking that, but my grandfather was like "No no. This is how we used to pound rivets back at the shop." So I just went with it. Since we did them wrong, what kind of damage should I expect? Will they fall out and sink me?

 

[Ouachita]

Since we did them wrong, what kind of damage should I expect? Will they fall out and sink me?

Not sure. You probably just didn't do too much tightening.

 

[sirslurpee]

it had some water in it from the rain, so i bailed until I could pick the front of the trailer up and put it on a jack stand... it's still leaking, but not from the rivets we tightened. I think we didn't really do a good enough job of flooding it before we started. So I'm gonna go back and fill it again and rebuck a few more (the right way this time) and finish up the half-ass job we did the first time

 

[ober51]

it had some water in it from the rain, so i bailed until I could pick the front of the trailer up and put it on a jack stand... it's still leaking, but not from the rivets we tightened. I think we didn't really do a good enough job of flooding it before we started. So I'm gonna go back and fill it again and rebuck a few more (the right way this time) and finish up the half-ass job we did the first time

Keep me posted, I am not looking forward to doing this.

 

[sirslurpee]

Hey guys.. it floats. I had it running wide open, and none of the rivets popped out or anything. There's still a few rivets that are leaking that we missed. I think if we fill it with water again I can pick up the ones that leak. I'll have to take it back out and mark any that leak on the lake (I should have had something to mark with today but I forgot)
Thanks for all the help
Maybe we'll get some pics of how we're rebucking the rivets to throw up here...

 

[ober51]

Hey guys.. it floats. I had it running wide open, and none of the rivets popped out or anything. There's still a few rivets that are leaking that we missed. I think if we fill it with water again I can pick up the ones that leak. I'll have to take it back out and mark any that leak on the lake (I should have had something to mark with today but I forgot)
Thanks for all the help
Maybe we'll get some pics of how we're rebucking the rivets to throw up here...

Great to hear, and please do!

 

[MikeA57]

... how can I mark the rivets as the water is leaking out?

I'd use a grease pencil. You can get them in various colors and it's just like wax like a crayon (but a little harder than a crayon)

 

[sirslurpee]

Tomorrow (Thursday.. it's tomorrow for me cuz I'm still up :lol: ) we're gonna work on the boat a bit. I'll try to get some pics of what we're doing to put up here for everyone..