I'm trying to mod my boat and still keep it light. I was thinking about using aluminum/clorplast sign blanks. Something like Alumacor, Max Metal, or Alumalite. They claim to be way stronger than flat aluminum. I was thinking it would make a great deck at a light weight with carpet on top. Anybody ever tried it? Any problems?
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Lightweight Floor - Anybody tried aluminum sign blanks?
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JMichael
Well-known member
Seems I read something about alumicor having problems delaminating but haven't heard anything about the others. I think I also read in a mod where they used old aluminum highway signs for decking. Note: They specified these were old signs that had been replaced and not ones that someone had stolen.
MrSimon
Well-known member
I stopped by the local Township Building and asked about old road signs .... the township engineer took me to a scrap pile and told me to help myself. I came away with a TON of old signs .... more than enough to do floors and decks in a boat.
The signs are fairly thin, but with good bracing underneath will do just fine. Obviously it will take some cutting and welding/riveting to get it all to fit nicely .... but free is always good.
The signs are fairly thin, but with good bracing underneath will do just fine. Obviously it will take some cutting and welding/riveting to get it all to fit nicely .... but free is always good.
Loweman
Active member
MrSimon said:I stopped by the local Township Building and asked about old road signs .... the township engineer took me to a scrap pile and told me to help myself. I came away with a TON of old signs .... more than enough to do floors and decks in a boat.
The signs are fairly thin, but with good bracing underneath will do just fine. Obviously it will take some cutting and welding/riveting to get it all to fit nicely .... but free is always good.
Cool! And no bullet holes in them! 8)
JMichael
Well-known member
LMAO I was looking at the pic he posted and saying to myself (these signs don't look right for some reason but I just can't put my finger on what it is). A sign with no bullet holes around here is a rare animal indeed. :lol:Loweman said:
jetmech
Active member
I have a fiberglass/honeycomb airline floor boards for sale if your interested. Very light and strong.
Captain Ahab
Well-known member
That is an awesome score on those signs!
nlester
Well-known member
Great idea, if you need more strength, you could double them up with some pop rivets.
RAMROD
Well-known member
Awsome tip! Did the same thing today!
JMichael
Well-known member
Last week I went by to see if my highway dept had any but they said they use them when they have to back fill washouts on the road side. 
Bass n flats
Well-known member
I used them for mine as well but I picked them up from the school I teach at. 1/16" thick they do good if you have ample bracing or foam under them
JMichael
Well-known member
If you fill the space between ribs with foam = to the surface of the ribs you can get by with some pretty thin aluminum. My ribs are 22" on center and I used .052 aluminum on my floor and it's solid. The foam does a lot better than most think it will at supporting a load without compressing. You can see what I did with mine in my build if interested.
Bass n flats
Well-known member
Windman7 said:
My supports on the front deck are 6-8" apart
MrSimon
Well-known member
Bass n flats said:
I agree with this. A single layer of road sign decking will need bracing of about 8". You could get by with 12" but you will have a little bit of flexing ... which you might be OK with.
Seams everyone is referring to single layer aluminum signs. I'm thinking about the sign products that have a layer of aluminum on each face and a corplast interior. They are suppose to be stronger than a single layer sign. Any thoughts?
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