Locking hitch pins

[nomowork]

Due to living in a urban environment, I have to lock everything, including the trailer while at the launch ramps!

My first locking hitch pin lasted about two years before the locking mechanism failed. The locking barrel was perpendicular to the pin.

My newest one purchased from Lowe's lasted about two months! The locking barrel was inline with the pin. I was removing the hitch pin yesterday after a day out in the ocean and the barrel that the key slides into came out of the lock leaving the hitch pin in place! After a bunch of prodding with a tiny screwdriver, the rest of the barrel came flying out due to a tiny (but strong) spring and nailed me in the lip!

Anyone have a line on GOOD locking hitch pin? Thanks.

 

[sixgun86]

I bought the most expensive weather proof lock I could find to use on all my boats/trailers.. It is the only thing I keep and it started to bind up the first month which I wasn't surprised so ea boat I get, or once every other month I'll spray it down with WD. So far so good. Launching in salt every time though I don't believe it has been submerged.

Question, which I might not be thinking this through.. Can't you just lock your tongue on and off the truck? or do you really think someone would steal the boat with the hitch still attached?

If you are really concerned you should consider insurance if you don't already have it..

 

[nomowork]

I'm just trying to slow down the common thief from just pulling the pin on the hitch and taking the trailer while I'm using he boat. The tongue of the trailer has a padlock. When the boat/trailer is parked, I also have a braided cable locked on the trailer into the ground and another cable with a lock going through the wheels.

Yup, both my boats are insured.

I did find another locking hitch pin with a locking cylinder that is perpendicular to the pin at Harbor Freight today. I'll see how long this one lasts!

 

[earl60446]

Just drill a hole in one of those pins and put a padlock thru it.
Or let the insert rust in there and noone will ever get it out. :LOL2:
Tim

 

[sixgun86]

JFYI Harbor freight sells mainly junk. Horror freight I think it's called? If you are looking for something that is reliable then others that have failed in the past look elsewhere.

 

[spotco2]

These from Master Lock hold up well and have an actual brass cylinder.

 

[TNtroller]

You don't say whether its salt water or fresh water. Salt water will corrode/rust metal quicker than fresh water, but suggest you use some WD40, or something similar on your locks and lock pins on a regular basis, especially if you store your boat outside in the elements. Rain will soak in, and then the rust starts. I use some liquid graphite in my locks when I notice them starting to stick, etc., supposedly it does not attract/hold road grime, etc. like others will. Some Teflon sprays may help as well, but start using some type of protectant with the new locks/pins asap to prevent the rust from starting.

 

[gillhunter]

These from Master Lock hold up well and have an actual brass cylinder.

I've had a Master Lock for over 10 years with no problems.

 

[nomowork]

These from Master Lock hold up well and have an actual brass cylinder.

The one that failed looks like that one but is made by Reese. It also had a brass insert for the sleeve where the key goes into. The brass sleeve and the secondary sleeve came out. Looking inside, all I could see was one teeny metal pin that looks like it holds everything in place. That pin must have broke allowing the sleeves to fall out.

I think I'll just use the locking hitch while at the ramp but tow with just the regular hitch pin. I'd hate to think what might have happened if that sleeve fell out on the highway!

 

[fish devil]

These from Master Lock hold up well and have an actual brass cylinder.

:twisted: I have the same one for many years. Never had a problem!!!!

 

[azekologi]

These from Master Lock hold up well and have an actual brass cylinder.

Not THAT is FUNNY! :LOL2:

I saw this thread title and had to chime in b/c I'd like a locking pin, but have had 3 fail in the last 2 years...ALL of them were the above Master Lock w/ brass cylinder! :LOL2:

The problem is not the weather conditions (I live in AZ where is NEVER RAINS and NOTHING RUSTS), it seems to be that the actual mechanism is cheaply made, binds up, and is a chore to get off (when it wants to, not when I want it to), even with the key.

I use a lock on the trailer's coupler, then use a heavy duty cable w/ lock between the hitch and trailer for added security when parked. My hitch pin is non-locking. If a thief wants my trailer, they'll have to cut her lose from the car first then deal with putting my slide into their receiver or cut the coupler lock too...any way you slice it it'll take a while to do so, and thieves like to be in/out as fast as possible.

A wise man once gave me a few pieces of good advice when I was putting together the ultimate vehicle theft deterrent for my '66 mustang...

#1 - If someone wants what you have bad enough, they WILL take it! (All the revolving alarm codes with billions of combinations, multiple kill switches, anti-tow mercury switches, battery backup sirens, and lojack on my mustang can be beat with a dovetail car hauler with a powered winch....if someone wants her bad enough, they'll drag her kicking and screaming onto the trailer and away she goes).

#2 - You don't have to have the best security money can buy, just more than the guy next to you. (If you have nothing more than a lock on your coupler and they guy next you doesn't have anything...guess who's trailer is getting stolen? Not yours [-X, even if it is nicer).

 

[nomowork]

Not THAT is FUNNY! :LOL2:

I saw this thread title and had to chime in b/c I'd like a locking pin, but have had 3 fail in the last 2 years...ALL of them were the above Master Lock w/ brass cylinder! :LOL2:

The problem is not the weather conditions (I live in AZ where is NEVER RAINS and NOTHING RUSTS), it seems to be that the actual mechanism is cheaply made, binds up, and is a chore to get off (when it wants to, not when I want it to), even with the key.

I use a lock on the trailer's coupler, then use a heavy duty cable w/ lock between the hitch and trailer for added security when parked. My hitch pin is non-locking. If a thief wants my trailer, they'll have to cut her lose from the car first then deal with putting my slide into their receiver or cut the coupler lock too...any way you slice it it'll take a while to do so, and thieves like to be in/out as fast as possible.

A wise man once gave me a few pieces of good advice when I was putting together the ultimate vehicle theft deterrent for my '66 mustang...

#1 - If someone wants what you have bad enough, they WILL take it! (All the revolving alarm codes with billions of combinations, multiple kill switches, anti-tow mercury switches, battery backup sirens, and lojack on my mustang can be beat with a dovetail car hauler with a powered winch....if someone wants her bad enough, they'll drag her kicking and screaming onto the trailer and away she goes).

#2 - You don't have to have the best security money can buy, just more than the guy next to you. (If you have nothing more than a lock on your coupler and they guy next you doesn't have anything...guess who's trailer is getting stolen? Not yours [-X, even if it is nicer).

We were at Bass Pro Shops today to get a few fishing and boating items. My GF saw the Master Lock locking hitch pin so she got it for me. It's the one with the locking cylinder that is perpendicular to the pin. I think I'll use that one on the van as that is what we tow with mostly these days and use the Harbor Freight one on the pickup.

Speaking of Mustangs, I sold my 67 coupe a couple of years ago and it had the usual Lojack, alarm/kill system, brake lock, etc. One extra thing I did was to remove the Unilite distributor rotor (optical conversion to remove the points). Those rotors were really hard to find locally. Just tried to stay one step ahead of the idiots.

 

[#BirdDog]

It's true if they want it bad enough they'll get it. I just use a padlock on my safety chains after looping through my hitch. Figure they'll move on to something easier. If not at least I tried.