Long or extra long kicker outboard?

[Still Afloat]

I recently bought a 18’ North River Mariner that came with a Yamaha 115 20” and 9.9hp 25” tiller high thrust kicker. I couldn’t get the kicker to run for more than a few seconds at a time during the test drive. I’m sure that I can fix it but, I don’t want to deal with a tired carburetor based outboard that‘s manual start and doesn’t have power trim. It’s winter here I haven’t had the boat out since bring it home.

The boat has a 20” transom, the main OB is a 20” and the kicker is a 25”. I‘m looking using a Suzuki 9.9 20” that I already have or buying a new Suzuki 9.9 with electric start and power trim. The question is whether I should go with a 20” or 25” if I buy the a new OB.

I’ve read that the extra long kickers tend to have better control but, this comes at the higher risk of rock strikes. Also, if I go with a 20” it would offer the flexibility of using it on the smaller boat if I feel like it. The Mariner net weight (without motors) is around 1500
pounds. It has has a 20” transom with a fairly flat 12 degree dead rise.

Is a 25” kicker that much better in this situation or should I just stick with a 20”? The intended use for the kicker is large rivers with strong currents like the Columbia. When fishing lakes I‘ll just use the Terrova.

 

[ripdmup]

Congrats on your Northriver. If your shaft length is to long it will create way to much drag. 9.9 in the Columbia is fine. The only problem is when tide goes out and the dam is open and your on the upriver troll. You`ll just have to power up. Pretty much the same with the Willy, Kalama or any other Columbia watershed rivers.




If your worried about Rocks or gravel mount a Prop guard...............................I use Macs

 

[Still Afloat]

Thanks Ripdmup but, drag isn’t a big concern since a kicker outboard is used only for trolling. It’s not in the water when running at speed.

I guess I was hoping to find someone that has used a longer than necessary kicker and if it offered some noticeable advantage over a properly sized OB.

I’m leaning towards a 20”.

 

[Still Afloat]

I’ve seen those prop guards but, always considered them a gimmick. Can’t see where they would help aside from really minor rock strikes. Perhaps it would keep fishing line out of the prop.

 

[ripdmup]

Drag is a big concern for me. I run 4 riggers and up to 3 other guys in my boat. When I`m on the uphill troll on the Columbia drag will take it`s toll. Not to mention fuel consumption. FWIW your Leaning in the right direction about the 20"

 

[ripdmup]

You made comment about rock strikes, and I thought it prudent to let you know what I use. Good Luck to you in your endeavor.

 

[Still Afloat]

Drag is a big concern for me. I run 4 riggers and up to 3 other guys in my boat. When I`m on the uphill troll on the Columbia drag will take it`s toll. Not to mention fuel consumption. FWIW your Leaning in the right direction about the 20"

Thanks. I’d consider that valid input.

 

[Still Afloat]

You made comment about rock strikes, and I thought it prudent to let you know what I use. Good Luck to you in your endeavor.

Thanks again. Just checked out the Macs site and it looks stronger than I expected.

 

[jethro]

I’ve seen those prop guards but, always considered them a gimmick. Can’t see where they would help aside from really minor rock strikes. Perhaps it would keep fishing line out of the prop.

Mine is just to keep the downrigger wires out of the prop if I have an oopsie. Like catching a fish at 120' deep with a ton of blowback on the cable in a 20mph blow and I spin around by mistake. And I built it myself out of $2 in aluminum flat stock and some stainless screws I had laying around.

 

[Still Afloat]

Thanks, jethro. I can see the benefit for keeping lines out of the prop.

 

[LDUBS]

To me, if you have the Suzuki 20" on hand, give it a go. If it works well, then you will know what staff length to go for if you decide on a new elect start with PT&T.

Dumb question #287 -- is it remotely feasible/practical to modify a 25" to a 20"?

BTW, what appears to a seat suspension in your latest pic is impressive! There have been many times going faster than I should in heavy chop that I would have appreciated something like that.

 

[Still Afloat]

To me, if you have the Suzuki 20" on hand, give it a go. If it works well, then you will know what staff length to go for if you decide on a new elect start with PT&T.

Dumb question #287 -- is it remotely feasible/practical to modify a 25" to a 20"?

BTW, what appears to a seat suspension in your latest pic is impressive! There have been many times going faster than I should in heavy chop that I would have appreciated something like that.

I was kind of thinking the same thing. Our winter has been warmer than normal and I might pull the boat out of storage to give the 20” a try.

Haven’t really looked into modifying the older 25” to a 20”. I’ve pulled on the recoil of that old Yamaha way too much already. Maybe I’ll try a new Spark plug and fuel filter and give it spin before selling it.

The seat suspension is definitely a good thing. This boat rides a bit rougher than a deeper V hull.

 

[LaqueRatt]

How does the prop guard affect performance? After scuffing a brand new prop last year in our shallow lake this might just be the ticket to a never ending series of prop replacements. I was a good 50 yards from shore too. Knew it was a shallow spot, but didn't take into account how low the lake level was.

 

[ripdmup]

I noticed a little bit more throttle response after I installed mine. Might just be me though.