Lowe 16x48 Restoration

[wyodeputy]

Hello everybody,

I've been poking around the site for some time now and its pretty clear I've found a bunch of sick-os who dig this boat stuff as much as I do - so I joined and I'm looking forward to associating with you guys. So I'll get right to the point: I submit exhibit A ...

 

[wyodeputy]

A little history on this boat. When I was very young and growing up in Southeast Texas, my Dad traded a co-worker a 14x36 with a 15 hp evinrude for this Lowe 16x52 with a 35 hp evinrude (straight across trade). I guess the other guy wanted a smaller boat? Growing up I spent countless hours fishing and duck hunting from this boat. Somewhere in there, Dad replaced the motor with a 25 hp. Eventually, college and work transplanted me to Idaho and the boat hasn't seen much use in recent years. In fact, it hasn't been registered since '04.

 

[wyodeputy]

Dad has agreed to trade me my current boat, an alumacraft waterfowler 16, for the family boat. Most would say I'm getting the short end of the stick (my alumacraft is in great shape) but this was my choice and its a reunion of sorts. As just mentioned, me and this boat have history and I hope you guys will assist me as I attempt to bring her back to a useful condition.

 

[ben2go]

:WELCOME:
I completely understand wanting Dad's old boat and trading for it.I still have my dad's old house trailer and land that I grew up in.Looks like a solid boat.Little cleaning and paint,she'll be good as new.

 

[wyodeputy]

Most folks wouldn't think there'd be much use for this type boat in Idaho but it'll be perfect for duck hunting my local river and fishing some of the lakes. Dad's gonna keep the 25 hp Johnson and I'm looking to run my Mud Buddy 45hp on the Lowe. This will require some serious work on the transom, both building it up a few inches and beefing it up considerably.

 

[wyodeputy]

So here's the plan:

As the Lowe will be used primarily for duck hunting and secondarily for fishing, I'm gonna gut the thing completely and leave mostly an open hull with pedastal bases to accomodate the ride out to the duck blind or the fishing trips. Both seats are coming out and I think I'll build onto the front one to extend it a bit. (I'm really concerned about the structural consequences of removing the seats and how to compsensate for it?)

Also, weight is a huge factor for me. You'd think 45 horses would fly but at 6200 feet, I'm robbed of some power due to elevation and carbueration. My current setup (the alumacraft) is very heavy and it shows. The boat alone weighs in at 530 lbs. Add 2 guys at 220 lbs each, 2 dogs, 2 guns, decoys, battery etc and its too much; well over 1200 lbs. The Lowe is light enough where I can lift up the front fairly easily. Therefore, I wanna keep it that way and do all my mods with aluminum and a mig welder (spoolgun).

This also is a concern as Dad says the boat's hull material may be too thin for a mig? We'll have to see.

 

[ben2go]

I agree with Dad.The best way to weld that thin metal is with a tig that has a water cooled torch.I have welded thin aluminum with a mig.It warped a little.I stitch welded it and allowed the metal to cool.I also had a professional set up the welder since I was doing the welding at work.I am use to welding plate steel.As far as removing the seats,I don't see a problem since the plan includes welding structure back in.You could always tack weld everything and then take it to a friend or shop to have the welds finished.Just a random thought.

 

[wyodeputy]

Excellent suggestion Ben2Go. Please keep track of me as your experience and expertise could sure help me with this project - Thanks

 

[dedawg1149]

:WELCOME: aboard wyodeputy i would have to agree, i would of traded for the sentimental value to. as far as the welding goes that would depend on your experience .i have a buddy that can weld light aluminum with a MIG and a spool gun but he has been welding all his life.all you can do is try a small area if it looks like you are going to burn through you could do like ben2 go suggested tack it or you could build the frame out of the boat then have someone weld it in .as far as the benches i would say take them out if you are going to put a sub-floor in the back that way you can Tye the sides back in structurally

 

[wyodeputy]

Wow, its 2:16 am and I've already gotten some good feedback. Thanks guys

Continuing with info on the boat, currently about 1800 miles seperates me from this project but I've got plans to ride down with an uncle and bring it back before the end of the month. Don't know if you can tell but that trailer ain't gonna make the trip. Hoping to take a cutting torch to it and salvage the axle, springs and maybe some other parts. So in addition to a boat restoration, I'll be building a trailer pretty much from ground up. Are pictures of trailer manufacturing ok on the boat mods page? In all actuallity, that'll probably be the first order of business as it'll make moving the boat in and out of the garage much easier. The wife had some input on that ... [-X

 

[dedawg1149]

yeah the wives get there say so dont they. u can post your trailer build. we like pictures and it would be interesting

 

[bassboy1]

Dad and I have built a few trailers. If you need specific pictures or help in that sort, just lemme know.

 

[Andy]

Welcome aboard!

I would have traded for Dad's boat too! Can't wait to see more pics of the build.

 

[Zum]

I agree with the sentimental value...I have the boat my grandfather built(wood/fiberglass bottom),it's in a hayloft right now hanging from the rafters(wouldn't fit in my house).
The guy who welded my bracket for my trolling motor used a mig and my decking is factory(pretty light);he had no trouble.Although he is a welder by trade.
I wanna see pictures of the mud motor on the 1652

 

[taino_racing]

=D> welcome aboard i really like the history behind the boat,this will make the boat that more enjoyable!good luck with your project keep us informed!

 

[SlimeTime]

Ditto on the Welcome! Here's some info on MIG'ing aluminum if you're interested.https://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/compactmig.asp


ST

 

[ben2go]

Excellent suggestion Ben2Go. Please keep track of me as your experience and expertise could sure help me with this project - Thanks

You're welcome and thanks.I'm no expert but I have learned a lot from tinkering over the years.

 

[wyodeputy]

Guys I feel welcomed already and thanks for all the advice, please keep it coming. Slimetime, thanks for the link, great info there.

 

[wyodeputy]

So here's an idea I had about bringing back some structural integrity after removing those seats: I'd like to use diamond plate aluminum on the floor and also on the sides (yes I'm prepared for a coronary when I see the price of that stuff). I thought maybe I could fill those sides and the floor with the pourable closed cell foam. I've heard manufacturers build the walls of walk-in freezers with that stuff and it actually has a lot of strength. So if I could pull this off, that would tie the sides and floor together (to some degree). Anybody think this would stay rigid enough to make up for the seat removal?

If I went this route, another issue that arises would be those channels in the floor that could get filled with foam and then dam water from running to the back drain hole. Seems like somewhere on the site, I read about somebody using PVC pipe to keep the channels open but I don't know if they used only short pieces, and then removed them after the foam dried? Wish I'd have marked that thread? Am I way off here or does this seem feasible? If anybody has a link to a similar idea, I'd love to have it. Thanks

 

[ben2go]

So here's an idea I had about bringing back some structural integrity after removing those seats: I'd like to use diamond plate aluminum on the floor and also on the sides (yes I'm prepared for a coronary when I see the price of that stuff). I thought maybe I could fill those sides and the floor with the pourable closed cell foam. I've heard manufacturers build the walls of walk-in freezers with that stuff and it actually has a lot of strength. So if I could pull this off, that would tie the sides and floor together (to some degree). Anybody think this would stay rigid enough to make up for the seat removal?

If I went this route, another issue that arises would be those channels in the floor that could get filled with foam and then dam water from running to the back drain hole. Seems like somewhere on the site, I read about somebody using PVC pipe to keep the channels open but I don't know if they used only short pieces, and then removed them after the foam dried? Wish I'd have marked that thread? Am I way off here or does this seem feasible? If anybody has a link to a similar idea, I'd love to have it. Thanks

The foam will help a little.The dimond plate will work and look good.I suggested in another thread about cutting PVC pipe down it's length giving 2 u channels.Then lay the U upside down making a channel for the water to run through and preventing the foam from plugging it up.It was just a passing idea.I've never tried it on a boat.