Lund Fury Back Deck Suggestions

[mattb]

Hello all,

Got my first powered boat last year, a 1648 crestliner with a little 15 evinrude. Fun boat, put a lot of PBs in it and my first musky in just the few months I had it. But I realized for lake fishing, jons aren't great. So I sold it and looked for a V boat.

Found a 2015 lund fury 1600 in ND for cheaper than dirt, and after a 21 hour round trip drive we got her in the garage.

The one issue however is the lack of rear deck. And unlike the lund rebel, they seemed to have gone out of their way to make it a pain to add a full deck to the rear of the boat with that raised aluminum block running across.

So, I'm looking for a way to make a deck for the back. Few things that are required

1. The current hatch covering would need to be removed. Held on by just a few rivets, I don't think it would be much work.

2. There needs to be either a hatch large enough or the front end opened up to allow access to the gas can and batteries.

3. I also need to access the control panel. I am not opposed to having it inside the hatch, but I'm not 100% opposed to moving it. Would prefer not to, however.

The distance from the furthest back end of the carpet to the beginning of the side hatches is 24". It is 43.5" of open space between each carpeted side. Also, I see if the deck comes out that full 24", the seat mount will not be accessible. This is fine with me, we only flyfish so sitting down isn't really a thing, and the seats will rarely be in the boat.

Any suggestions on how I can make a functional back deck relatively simply would be great. I have enough woodworking experience to complete it, but I'd like to have this mod done and ready by ice off.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Looks like the perfect candidate for a freestanding drop in deck. You could frame it using 2x4 and cover with plywood and matching carpet make it flush with the side boxes. Make a hinged section for battery access. Maybe use slide bolts to hold it down while trailering or in waves. Then it can be easily removed for servicing. Be able to slide stuff underneath for storage.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

 

[mattb]

Another idea I'm having is using the existing hinge to make a platform similar to folding jump seats. Piece of scrap for reference of where I would have the platform.

 

[thomasdgs]

A drop in deck will be the simplest and quickest. If you want to remove the battery/fuel cover, then as you said, you know how to. I think you could make a drop in light enough to just move it whenever you need to access the fuel. installing a hatch to access the switches is not a bad idea, alternatively, you could make some part of the port end of the deck hinged for its whole length to save on carpet and building time. With a drop in deck, if you ever need the floor space, its quick to switch back, and wont affected the resale.

Keep us posted on the whole process, no matter which route you take!

 

[BLindahl]

Not the best pic but we made this one out of 3/4” ply for my Fury XL.

 

[Eric Nash]

Hello all,

Got my first powered boat last year, a 1648 crestliner with a little 15 evinrude. Fun boat, put a lot of PBs in it and my first musky in just the few months I had it. But I realized for lake fishing, jons aren't great. So I sold it and looked for a V boat.

Found a 2015 lund fury 1600 in ND for cheaper than dirt, and after a 21 hour round trip drive we got her in the garage.

The one issue however is the lack of rear deck. And unlike the lund rebel, they seemed to have gone out of their way to make it a pain to add a full deck to the rear of the boat with that raised aluminum block running across.

So, I'm looking for a way to make a deck for the back. Few things that are required

1. The current hatch covering would need to be removed. Held on by just a few rivets, I don't think it would be much work.

2. There needs to be either a hatch large enough or the front end opened up to allow access to the gas can and batteries.

3. I also need to access the control panel. I am not opposed to having it inside the hatch, but I'm not 100% opposed to moving it. Would prefer not to, however.

The distance from the furthest back end of the carpet to the beginning of the side hatches is 24". It is 43.5" of open space between each carpeted side. Also, I see if the deck comes out that full 24", the seat mount will not be accessible. This is fine with me, we only flyfish so sitting down isn't really a thing, and the seats will rarely be in the boat.

Any suggestions on how I can make a functional back deck relatively simply would be great. I have enough woodworking experience to complete it, but I'd like to have this mod done and ready by ice off.

A couple of years ago I fabricated a fairly elegant folding deck for my 17 foot Starcraft out of a double thickness of the MDF that's used for making highway signs, which is much stronger and more durable than marine plywood plus it won't absorb water. I measured out the space, cut two pieces of 3/4 inch MDF and then clamped and glued them into a 1.5 inch block (probably overkill but my co-angler is a big guy) and wrapped the whole thing in Nautolex vinyl. I attached a piano hinge like the one that you see in your picture and then cut two 12 inch pieces of strong aluminum angle bracket and bolted them securely with 1/4 inch stainless bolts into the sides right below where you show your Lowrance and directly opposite that so that I can fold the deck down most of the time or fold it back to get access to the fuel tank, battery well etc. I even used a hole saw to drop a pedestal mount through the center so that I can put a casting seat there when I want it. I even added a simple piece of 2x4 on a hinge to serve as an extra support when the deck is down. The whole project only took me about 3 hours.

In your case it looks like you have some sort of switch panel just below your Lowrance so you might want to just split the bracket on that side so as not to interfere with it. It's a little hard to see the brackets that I used but you can just about see the corners of them in the last two pictures. One warning- if you do something like this and you're going to trailer the boat with the deck down, put in a simple gate hook or something to hold it in the down position. I had it flip up on me on the highway and it scared the devil out of me. I also (stupidly) towed it that day with the casting seat in place and the wind caught it and blew the seat right out of the boat. Luckily I saw it and went back for it.

 

[davidj65]

Very nice work. I don't think it is overkill at all. MDF doesn't absorb water?

 

[LDUBS]

Very nice work. I don't think it is overkill at all. MDF doesn't absorb water?

I think the actual product is MDO.

 

[thill]

Probably MDO. Very good stuff. Soak it in Thompson's Wood Preserver/Waterproofer, and it will last many years.
That's a perfect candidate for a fold-up platform, but I see that many others have beat me to the punch. I loved mine in my Pricncecraft. A great platform, but I could lift it to get underneath anytime I needed.

 

[thill]

I added a slightly smaller rear deck to the Spectrum, but same concept:

 

[Eric Nash]

Very nice work. I don't think it is overkill at all. MDF doesn't absorb water?

Actually, I misspoke and the board is MDO, not MDF as some other posters have commented. It's a little pricey but yes, waterproof plus the Nautolex wrap keeps most water off the board anyway.

 

[Eric Nash]

I think the actual product is MDO.

Yup, I misspoke and it was MDO.