Mercury as Good as OMC?

[LaqueRatt]

Think I better start a thread for this boat and motor. Got a lot of questions and have to admit I don't know very much. I didn't give much for the rig at all. I didn't really want a glass boat, but was wanting something my grandson would have fun in and I could take the fam out on. As well as fish.

Doesn't the throttle lever also put it in gear though? Should I push in the black square Throttle Only button?

The boat came with two sets of those ear muff things. Just shove them on over the slots on the sides and hook up the hose? Full blast? I have really good pressure and could see them blowing off.

 

[MrGiggles]

Think I better start a thread for this boat and motor. Got a lot of questions and have to admit I don't know very much. I didn't give much for the rig at all. I didn't really want a glass boat, but was wanting something my grandson would have fun in and I could take the fam out on. As well as fish.

Doesn't the throttle lever also put it in gear though? Should I push in the black square Throttle Only button?

The boat came with two sets of those ear muff things. Just shove them on over the slots on the sides and hook up the hose? Full blast? I have really good pressure and could see them blowing off.

You can use the fast idle if you choose. I never did on mine, it started at idle pretty easily. You will need to push in the shift override (that square button) if you do, as there should be a safety switch that prevents you from starting it in gear.

I always liked to push the choke in before cranking, so I could listen for the "clunk" and verify that it actually closed. Hold it in while cranking and once it pops immediately release the choke, if it wants to stutter and die push it again momentarily as needed until it builds some heat and will idle on it's own. It is not a primer, just a solenoid that closes the choke butterflies.

That era of Mercs were really bad about rotten wires on the ignition, check it over, it's usually pretty obvious. All the parts are available although they are a little expensive, probably a little over $500 to change everything (stator, power pack, and trigger), but it will be good for many years at that point.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Finally got it started on Friday. Pumped the bulb, pushed in the key while cranking. Started right up, but sounded a bit sick. Barely running. After 10 secs she stalled. Repeated this several times with the same results. Started messing around trying different things. Finally I tried starting it at half throttle and she roared to life! Sounded strong, has a real high performance vibe to it. Throttled it down and she quit, but would start over and over at half throttle. Let it run for a few minutes, but she still wouldn't idle. Since I know it was sitting all season with gas in it, I figure the carbs are likely dirty. Guess I'll be pulling them off this week for a cleaning. Never pulled carbs on an engine on the boat before, but at 265 lbs I'm not going to try to lift it off. Also never messed with multiple carbs before. Any thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[thill]

It should be pretty simple, but with Mercs, getting them off is sometimes the problem. Get a service manual, if you can.

Take your time, take lots of cell pictures as you go and even take notes if needed. Lay the parts out on a towel in sequence of removal.

Cleaning the carbs themselves is pretty simple. Get a carb jet needle/brush kit off Amazon for about $4, rebuild kits and a can of carb cleaner and you should be fine.

Then put it back exactly as it came off, and she should run great.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Needle/brush kit on order. While doing some research came up with something interesting. Are the main jets both accessible from the front of the carbs?! If so, what a great idea and maybe I don't need to pull the carbs after all. A string of drizzly days has me a bit stymied right now, but hope to get this thing splashed next week at the latest.

 

[thill]

Most carbs, you can get to the main jet through the drain screw.
But the idle pickup tube, which is always what clogs up first, and causes it to idle poorly or not idle at all, needs the bowl taken off.

I strongly recommend you pull, clean and rebuild all three carbs properly.

If you only get them partially clean, and the motor runs okay, but is a little lean, that will burn the motor up, and you will be replacing it sooner than later.

Overheating and fuel/oil issues are the primary cause of 2-stroke engines being destroyed.

ALWAYS replace the impeller and clean the carbs with a new-to-you engine.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Good to know, thanks. Mine is the older, 4 cyl, 2 carb 75 though, so not sure if all what you say applies as the carbs look very different to me.

 

[thill]

Is that a 70's model?
Does it have points under the flywheel?

 

[LaqueRatt]

I think it's a 1985 Model Type: ELPT. It's hard to tell with these Mercs though it seems. This is the only no. I can find on it: A168931 Maybe somebody who knows something about these motors can verify this for me. To answer your question, I don't think this motor has points.