mid to late 60's 9,9 sea horse

[kooldecker]

hi fellows I might have a deal on a mid-to-late 60s Johnson seahorse 9.9 outboard and I'm just wondering if anybody knows any good positive things or bad negative things to say about these motors I'm kind of on a tight budget and can't be buying motors left and right. as far as the guy says it's in decent shape it might need a tune-up if the compression is okay the price seems right. I guess I'm just wondering about parts and such if anything needs to be fixed. again thank you as always for all of your help you guys have really gotten me on my way I can't thank you enough for all your help!

 

[1960 yellowboat]

Those older Johnsons are bulletproof, and yes, you can still get parts for them. If you go to MarineEngines.com , you will find everything you need. All you need is the model number. I rebuilt my 15 hp. 1955 Evinrude using parts from them.
#1 make sure you hear it run before you buy it. At least 15 minutes
#2 put in new plugs, a new impeller for the water pump
#3 change the gear oil
Those motors were said to use a 50 to 1 oil mix but better you should use a 32 or 40 to one.
And you should be good to go.
here's mine

 

[kooldecker]

thats a sweet looking motor. yes im going to jump on it. honestly i love lder things,(they were always made better) with very few exceptions. thanks for the info!

 

[Pappy]

The 9.9/15hp platform did not start until 1974. What you are probably looking at is a 9.5hp. Make sure the upper mount is okay by rocking the powerhead back and forth with your hands (cover off and hands on flywheel) and the exhaust "donut" is also intact and sealing all the way around. If not the engine will be running on it's own exhaust. Those are the two biggies.

 

[kooldecker]

thanks papp, im on my way to look at it now, it looks to be in good shape, and i got the guy down to 225! i feel like there is definite wiggle room there to get some things taken care of if need be, but if either of those things you mention are bad, should i walk away? as in are they parts you cant get anymore? or is it just too labor intensive. but i have a feeling its good shape. ill send some pics soon!

 

[kooldecker]

pappy what should my proper mix ratio be for such an animal ? and are there any special starting instructions i should know about? first old outboard ive ever owned really.

 

[Pappy]

I always run my vintage/antique fleet of engines on a heavier than normal mix. Although yours is "good to go" on a 50/1 mix I would run it on a 40/1 mix at least. No visible difference in smoke if you know how to tune one. The benefits are better sealing, protection during an overheat, etc.
If either one of those issues are present walk away.

 

[kooldecker]

thanks alot pappy, i did wind up getting it. i didnt notice much movement in the powerhead, but then again i dont know if any is acceptable so im going to check it out this weekend, the exhaust looks to be ok on the first inspection, so ill be looking at that as well the first inspection. im a shop guy so im not really scared of anything that would need fixing, i just dont want to have to do it lol. but more than likely knowing me ill be doing impeller and all that jazz before i even take it out once lol. any special oil choice or is standard stuff ok. and thanks for the 40/1 suggestion by the way !

 

[Pappy]

You're more than welcome.
With the cowling off and your hand on the flywheel the powerhead should have very little fore and aft movement. Trust me when I tell you a failed upper mount in one of these is easy to diagnose.
Do not mistake the small exhaust bellows with the larger "donut" I am talking about. Take a look way down in the lower pans for the donut. Also,when you get it running a worn donut will allow visible exhaust gases up through it.
Purchase OEM parts. They fit and they work. Sierra coils are notorious for not fitting, some will not even bolt up. Their points never line up, etc. Sierra carb kits are incomplete compared to OEM. Water pump impellers are also sketchy when it comes to proper fit and durometer.
Check the gearcase for water. If you have it the normal culprit is the shift rod seal. Change it and also change out the "Spagetti seal" and propshaft bushing housing O-ring. Use a complete water pump kit to start with. Keep your old housing for a spare.
Points, if OEM will rarely need to be changed. Condensers should be changed out unless you know they are pretty new and any visual cracks in coils/ Change them as well. This is not the time to save pennies as the engine has to be reliable for you.
Enjoy! Welcome to the world of vintage outboards!

 

[kooldecker]

Wow that was so much info thank you! Wish i lived nearby id love to just sit and see your shop lol. I have one more question for now. First... i put it in a drum, pumped some new gas...and it fired and idled smooth as blantons bourbon on the 3rd pull! Its been in storage for like 10 yrs. Amazing i think! My question is how long should it take for water to come out of the impeller? I let it idle (slow idle) mabye 20 sec total and didnt see anything so i chickened out and cut it lol. Im completely set that im going to replace it anyway but should it take a few minutes for the stat to open up? It obviously runs smooth i dont want to cook it now lol.

 

[Pappy]

The engine does not depend on the thermostat to open before producing visible water flow.
Waterline in any tank should be at least 6" above the parting line between the gearcase and the exhaust housing.This places those fat round "clamshells" under water. The pumps are not self-priming.

 

[nccatfisher]

Pappy aren't those upper mounts obsolete now?

 

[Pappy]

Pappy aren't those upper mounts obsolete now?

Ohhhh yes and for a long time now. Once in a while you can find them on Ebay as well as the donuts.

 

[nccatfisher]

Pappy aren't those upper mounts obsolete now?

Ohhhh yes and for a long time now. Once in a while you can find them on Ebay as well as the donuts.

I thought they were. I helped a fellow put a set in a couple years ago. I remember him having a hard time getting them. I believe he finally got a set of NOS on eBay. But like you said he was down for quite some time.

 

[kooldecker]

well so far i think the mounts are ok. and i had it in a bucket pappy so i totally did not have it submerged below the clamshells . im gonna try it again. bit its really just moot because im going to do the waterpump impeller no matter what immediately. wheres the best place to get an oem kit ? ive been poking around but havnt found one yet. im going to download the manual off of here and print out just to have it. any info is so appreciated!

 

[Pappy]

A local dealer is the best since you can keep your money local. If not then most are getting parts through marine engine.

 

[kooldecker]

thats what i was looking for. and no im with you about patronizing local biz first. im hitting my local place tomowwow morning but if its fruitless or they are just going to rake me over the coals for price ill try that site.

 

[kooldecker]

pappy this question is for you. i started to break down the lower unit to replace the water pump/impeller. first thing i noticeced upon draining the oil was water. but as went further the a absence of ANY seal for the lower instantly answered that problem.
now as i got into the lower , i noticed the new omc kit contains two seals. one for under the plate, and im not sure where the other goes . however....when i look up into the shaft housing....i see where the drive shaft goes and it sure looks like the other seal should go there. it looks like its the same diameter and the seal , and just makes sense to have one there.....but there isnt one presently (hey old owner could have botched it easily im sure) ive included a picture of the tube in question. what are your thoughts ?

 

[Pappy]

No seal in the exhaust housing side. Only the gearcase.
The probable cause of your water leak is the shift rod O-ring. Make sure you change it.

 

[kooldecker]

ill be sure to pap but i think it was the spaghetti seal on the housing. there was nothing. bare metal to metal . not even any silicone or an attempt at a seal. so you think that seal is just an extra? i just want to make sure im doing it right. im looking ( without much luck for a darn exploded diagram. those things are no brainers