Military Battery Terminals- Questions

[Tin Man]

I ended up using these....with some rubber/plastic covers (pics below).

Marine Battery Terminals

Connected NEG starter cable to new marine clamps threaded 5/16" post and 2 AWG from new marine clamps 3/8" POS to ON-OFF switch.
Battery Charger cables and NEG house wires are connected to the battery's 5/16" threaded posts. I used single post silicone covers for the wires on the battery's threaded 5/16" posts.

The issue with most terminal covers....they do not work well when you have 2-3 cables coming off the the threaded posts, ex...leaving post at 4, 6, 8 O'Clock; the covers are best suited for single cable use. That;'s what I like about the Military clamps...the cover covers both cables.

If you think the Military clamps are expensive, then take a look at these! BTW...the hard plastic covers cover ALL of the battery LEAD.....added brass plate, heavy post and 5/16" theaded post. This appears to be a Mercury exclusive item....I have not seen any knock offs that include covers that cover ALL terminals. The video shows them installed.

CONS: 1. Brass plates are drilled at 5/16" and 3/8"...however marine batts are both 5/16"
2. Brass Plates attach to threaded post...weakest part of battery terminals.

Hard to find.....


https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwiq4KCcv6mEAxUFIEQIHU8BCicQ9pwGCAw

 

[80monark]

Outboard cables are not connected as I always disconnect them after use.
I installed clamps 3 years ago and had the same issue with negative terminal from outboard being to small for bolt.
I drilled out terminal to fit bolt with no issues.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

If your battery is in a covered box, then it should be OK.

Not sure that all covered boxes are dielectric (damp/wet wood), but any dielectric cover that prevents acedential shorts would work.

 

[airshot]

That is a good question. There are a lot of covers for the fat terminals. Don't see them for the threaded posts. If your battery is in a covered box, then it should be OK.

Out of curiosity, before reading the OP, I was not aware there is an issue using the threaded terminals on a marine battery. Is it a concern with the wing nut coming loose compared to a hex nut?

Shouldn't be a problem, I always add a lock washer and use mechanical leverage when tightning the wing nuts, coast gard aporoved my connections on a number of ocassions. The problem arrises when only fingers are used to tighten wing nuts ..

Shoot, I saw those and assumed they were for the big terminal lugs. Should have paid more attention to the size.

I'm going to be honest and say I have no idea if the threaded posts on my starter battery are covered or not. Next time I'm in the boat and think of it I'll open the box to see what is happening.

My TM battery uses the threaded posts. The lugs are covered with plastic caps.

Currently mine are not covered as they are the posts that are used for connections, including the cables for starting the main outboard motor. All my batteries are under hatches in enclosed compartments ( vented yes). When I had other boats where the battery posts were exposed I had them covered with caps of some kind so no shorts could occur.

 

[MrGiggles]

The biggest problem I see with threaded battery connections is that the wires have a lot of leverage on the fastener. Snug them down with a wrench and try loosening the nut with the wires, you'd be surprised how easy it can be.

 

[LDUBS]

Oh boy, I've got to say, I thought the battery terminal connections were kind of a simple as long as they were tight. Seems I was in the ignorance is bliss mode. I've learned a lot on this thread.

 

[Tin Man]

This article discusses wing nuts and when they are not allowed....(wires over 6AWG).
ABYC E10 is where this information comes from. ABYC charges for its materials, which I think is ridiculous, especially considering the risk involved with boats and boat owners.

Battery Terminals

 

[MrGiggles]

Oh boy, I've got to say, I thought the battery terminal connections were kind of a simple as long as they were tight. Seems I was in the ignorance is bliss mode. I've learned a lot on this thread.

Don't get me wrong, I have used the threaded posts for years and will continue to do so. They aren't perfect but I still prefer them over using the round posts and an added terminal.

It just takes a little extra attention to make sure that the wires are in a good position so they won't move and loosen the nuts over time. Washers help as well.

 

[airshot]

Last season I had a courtesy inspection from Coast Gard here in Toledo Ohio. They noticed my wing nuts and mentioned there faults. I tokd them I used a wrench and mechanically tightened them. He reached in and tried to loosen them with his fingers, he could not, and said I was good to go as long as they couldn't be loosened by hand. Lock washers are always used under my wing nuts !!

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

Just a few comments on battery connections.

Wing nut are fine on wires with smaller condctor size than 6 awg per ABYC.

I do think there is some misunderstading about tighten a wing nut or terminal stud.

The battery manufacture should provide a torque value, regardless of nut, thats how to determine proper tightness.

Attached is an excerpt from ABYC, torque specs form a specific LifeP04 battery and a specific lead acid battery.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

They make nyloc wingnuts.

 

[Tin Man]

This is how I ended up with my cable attachments.....

 

[datsunscott]

The seller is wrong and does not understand what they are selling. Likely a chinese sales agent at a computer.

Its funny you just posted this as I was checking lead terminals to replace the skinny brass ones on the truck I'm helping on in case we needed them. And people please watch out- there are a lot of plated aluminum terminals being sold in the marketplace, also copper coated aluminum wire which carries only /2 the load of solid copper (hard to find good jumper cables nowadays), and now even what you think is standard copper wire could turn out to be steel wire with copper wash. I really have to pay attention nowadays as I have almost been "caught" so I read carefully and if needed ask the question.

I think you have the right idea, The military knockoff terminals can be very good it made of lead.

First of all: Lead battery terminals have the least corrosion of all because they are lead terminal to lead post.
And lead is a great conductor of electricity. No galvanic action, Just assemble clean with a little silicone grease,
If you pull out the terminal clamp bolts and grease them before assembly they should stay nice,
although if a salt water environment I prefer stainless nuts and bolts. (I do like the red and green round felts)

Second: the diameter of the bolt for the ring terminal connection makes virtually no difference-
as long as it has sufficient clamping force on the ends. The surface area on the ring terminal that is pressing on the lead
is the main area that is carrying the current, and the bolt can make a good connection on both ends..

The center section of the throughbolt itself just goes though the hole, and does not normally have any kind of decent connecion to the lead terminal in the center part of the bolt. It could probably touch the wall of the hole but there is no force on the sidwall of the hole to make any good connection. So I wold not worry about using a smaller bolt (but I would likely sleeve it to keep it centered)

So if you have appropriate ring terminals, possibly with a washer on the outside of the ring terminal to keep it flat and tight against the lead you should be good, and the system would carry the same current as the larger bolt. The only issue you might have is keeping the ring terminal and bolt centered, and the possibility of evertorquing the "smaller" bolt if you are not paying attention, (If you dont use backing washers on the outside of the ring terminal it could tend to cave-in)

So the answer to all that is:
A. Have a very strong thick cable lug end if possible. With an od as big as the lead terminal area it goes on,
You could even sandwich the ring terminal between washers if needed, If a brass ring preferably good thick brass washers.

B. Best if you could shim your 5/16 bolts in the 3/8 hole with a sleeve to keep it centered,.
Something as simple a piece of a straw that is the right size, (might have to try a couple different fast food places) -
or if you want to be snazzy get some brass 3/8 .030 wall thickness tubing (.375x.030) , cut a sleeve,
and use in the terminal hole for the bolt to go through. Brass tubing in that size is common at hobby shops,
Even some heat shrink over the center section of the bolt might work. For some reason I am thinking mcDonalds straw?

Here is a link for 3/8 x 5/16 brass tubing ..........12" cut is $4.50 + shipping:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/brass/0-375-od-x-0-03-wall-x-0-315-id-brass-round-tube-h58-seamless/pid/1545?variant=1545_36_0&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=[ADL] [Smart Shopping] Brass&utm_term=4580153138802284&utm_content=Threaded Bar&adlclid=ADL-4886c911-8ee7-489f-83a7-f04ffce08b77

I am very experienced in the automotive industry and even just today did carbon pile load testing of a battery/cables/starter system. I checked the battery individually, then negative battery terminal to the block testing negative ground amp capacity, Battery positive through positive wire to the starter stud, then combined 400a load test fro the starter stud to the block. Bad cables and connections were suspected but all turned out to be very good after a quick wire brush and reconnectiong. (I confirmed the issue is starter solenoid connections inside the starter- which was important to do as it is an expensive starter)- but to help the guy out I'm installing new internal solenoid contacts so he doesnt have to by a new starter.

I hope that helps and let us know how it goes!