Need a New Flatbottom Trolling Motor Mount

[wmk0002]

The pics below are from a few years back when I mocked up my trolling motor bracket. The bracket is a bent sheet metal type that Alumacraft sells specifically for their flatbottom jons. I ended up putting two 1/4" x 2" sheet metal screws in the rear flange into the deck and then used three rivets on the front into the front bow gunnel. I don't use the boat near as much as most on here and the TM is a 46lb thrust model and 4-5 years later 2/3 rivets have broken on the front mount. Not totally sure what size rivets I used but they were likely too small. Instead of drilling them out and reinstalling larger rivets I think I would like to get a more permanent mount setup. I was thinking about getting something welded onto the gunnel on the side and front to box it in and give a solid permanent mounting surface with a space under it that could be used for wiring connections and maybe add in a 12V and USB outlet. And possibly extending the front 6" of this across the entire front deck to give a place to add some nonslip material to provide a bow step and mount lights and other electronics to in the future.

Can anyone with anything remotely similar post some pics or describe how yours is setup? I spent some time searching but the key words "trolling motor mount" seem to get hits in too many threads. I figure some guys with welded boats will have some factory ones that are close to what I'm thinking about. There is a local fab shop that I follow on Facebook who does some impressive aluminum work and has experience with boats so I think I can probably get them to do about anything I can dream up.

 

[bplayer405]

Earlier this year I bought a tig welder because I wanted do do my own remodeling on a jon boat I bought. Same kind of issues was addressed with my boat, other than I don't really use a front trolling motor that often even though I have a nice one. My solution was to make a front deck at rail height for lighting and ease of front entry, then add a removable TM mount. Threaded insert rivets were the key to mine for both the bracket and motor. Fairly easy to add and remove as needed. If I was going to leave the TM on the boat I would have welded the bracket in place.

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[overboard]

Does that boat have a TRAC built into the gunnel?
If it does, I doubled up on 1/8" aluminum sheet (1/4') and fabricated it to fit into the TRAC and made a short upper deck to bolt things onto. It is braced with angle underneath and a piece of angle goes full width across the back, then a filler piece of sheet aluminum with another piece of aluminum angle across the original deck for the rear support. It is held in place by a small fabricated square washer on a carriage bolt in the TRAC so it can't move out of position. Every thing is bolted together and removable if needed, I did the same on two Tracker GRIZZLY's and haven't had a problem, I mainly did it to mount Deckhand anchor winches.

 

[wmk0002]

Earlier this year I bought a tig welder because I wanted do do my own remodeling on a jon boat I bought. Same kind of issues was addressed with my boat, other than I don't really use a front trolling motor that often even though I have a nice one. My solution was to make a front deck at rail height for lighting and ease of front entry, then add a removable TM mount. Threaded insert rivets were the key to mine for both the bracket and motor. Fairly easy to add and remove as needed. If I was going to leave the TM on the boat I would have welded the bracket in place.

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Thanks for the pics! That's basically what I want except for shorter front step/deck to match my flat front. And I want the trolling motor mounting surface to be permanent and then I may add a quick detach mount on top of that as I would like to eventually get a Terrova and have a backup cable steer motor like I currently have.

Is the sheet welded directly to the boat or is it attached to a frame? I would prefer to have the top to have a lip of flat bar or something welded to the gunnels to act as fastener joint edge for a couple removable sections of sheet. Mainly allowing me to drill holes wherever for mounting things and then just replace a cut to fit sheet if I change things around a bunch and make it swiss cheese.

 

[wmk0002]

Does that boat have a TRAC built into the gunnel?
If it does, I doubled up on 1/8" aluminum sheet (1/4') and fabricated it to fit into the TRAC and made a short upper deck to bolt things onto. It is braced with angle underneath and a piece of angle goes full width across the back, then a filler piece of sheet aluminum with another piece of aluminum angle across the original deck for the rear support. It is held in place by a small fabricated square washer on a carriage bolt in the TRAC so it can't move out of position. Every thing is bolted together and removable if needed, I did the same on two Tracker GRIZZLY's and haven't had a problem, I mainly did it to mount Deckhand anchor winches.

I wish I did but unfortunately no. TBH it's one of the few regrets out of this hull. Trac systems are awesome and as someone who like a versatile boat and isn't big fan of permanent modifications they would be so handy.

Your idea is awesome though. If I ever get one with a Trac system I'll definitely try that out.

 

[MrGiggles]

I second rivnuts. They've been holding my Terrova on for 3 years now.

 

[jojo]

I did this on my old jon boat that I sold. Used 3/4" carpeted plywood and a 2x6 riveted and screwed to gunnel and deck. Had all kinds of room for trolling motor, lights, lightbar, 12v/TM plug, Charger port, drink holder.

 

[BernieP]

I had some scrap aluminum and a tig welder. This is what i did.

 

[bplayer405]

Earlier this year I bought...

Thanks for the pics! That's basically what I want except for shorter front step/deck to match my flat front. And I want the trolling motor mounting surface to be permanent and then I may add a quick detach mount on top of that as I would like to eventually get a Terrova and have a backup cable steer motor like I currently have.

Is the sheet welded directly to the boat or is it attached to a frame? I would prefer to have the top to have a lip of flat bar or something welded to the gunnels to act as fastener joint edge for a couple removable sections of sheet. Mainly allowing me to drill holes wherever for mounting things and then just replace a cut to fit sheet if I change things around a bunch and make it swiss cheese.

You don't need a welder to build whatever size of platform you're looking for. One boat shop near me builds bass boats out of jon boats and rivets all the framework and sheet together. The riv-nuts are a good option for having an aluminum deck addition that's removable allowing changes to be made for electrical or whatever accessories may be used and changed later.

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[wmk0002]

Earlier this year I bought...

Thanks for the pics! That's basically what I want except for shorter front step/deck to match my flat front. And I want the trolling motor mounting surface to be permanent and then I may add a quick detach mount on top of that as I would like to eventually get a Terrova and have a backup cable steer motor like I currently have.

Is the sheet welded directly to the boat or is it attached to a frame? I would prefer to have the top to have a lip of flat bar or something welded to the gunnels to act as fastener joint edge for a couple removable sections of sheet. Mainly allowing me to drill holes wherever for mounting things and then just replace a cut to fit sheet if I change things around a bunch and make it swiss cheese.

You don't need a welder to build whatever size of platform you're looking for. One boat shop near me builds bass boats out of jon boats and rivets all the framework and sheet together. The riv-nuts are a good option for having an aluminum deck addition that's removable allowing changes to be made for electrical or whatever accessories may be used and changed later.

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I gotcha. So attach the frame directly to the deck, which will be what primarily holds it down, and then how did you attach it to the gunnels? Did you use rivnuts there? I know in that case the frame to deck fasteners would be providing all the holding power and I guess any attachments to the gunnel would just be to keep it tight and limit vibrations, so I guess any thing would work.