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Well I didn't have long to work on it today, but did manage to get the front deck off! I want to do something creative in the area of storage compartments up front. But i dont know how much foam is supposed to go back in. The floor part didnt have any so i am planning on putting some there to. I plan on putting some rod tubes in on the left side. And also a battery up there just for TM and spotlight. Here's some recent pics.

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Got the side off, there was foam behind them but it wasn't stuck to the boat thank goodness!

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Great more foam to take out! I'll be glad when this junk is gone. This foam was real squishy. Kinda like playdough.

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Got the front deck completely removed and all the foam GONE =D> I decided to leave the very front cross wall in because it was riveted to the actual bottom of the boat, and I didn't want to mess with it.

Now ready for tomorrow. I plan on pressure washing it and cleaning it up. Anybody know a good cleaner for aluminum? I also checked it for leaks. None of the rivets leaked!! But the bottom of the stern leaks a little around the plug whole and a little around the bondo spot when I get the top all clean I plan on turning it over and scraping it off. I also got some Glue ready to glue up the transom. This is what I think everybody uses.

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I was thinking I could put the glue on the wood roll it on, and fasten the two pieces together reall good with wood screws acting as my clamp. Any reason that wouldn't work? I will then cover transom with layers of epoxy resin, kinda hard to find locally so I will have to order I guess. Anybody know a good place? Thanks and I'll add some more pics tomorrow.
 
Looking good so far.

Alumabrite is a fantastic aluminum cleaner. You might have to order it. Play with the dilution a little and you'll know when you have it right.

https://www.auroramarine.com/aurora/catalog/alumabrite/index.php?cat=2

Since you are not leaking from any rivets you do not need to rebuck or replace any of them. That's a good thing! I would coat the inside of the boat along all seams and rivets with Gluvit Epoxy Water Sealer. It's slippery stuff so a lot of people use it on the bottom of their river runner boats. It seals very well, seeps into cracks and seams and will flex if the hull does. The only bad part is it is not UV resistant so it would need to be painted over or covered with something if in a sunny part of the boat. Proper prep is the key to getting this stuff to stick and work.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2091

You can apply the glue that you have, use contact cement or epoxy them together and then wrap in glass and resin. Be sure to account for the thickness of the resin when you assemble so that your finished product will fit inside the transom cap.

When you cut your boards, cut them a few inches to big. Apply an even coat of adhesive to both pieces and if using glue or epoxy and set one carefully on top of the other. Your top board is going to slip and slide and will not just stay in place even with constant pressure. Use a couple of brads outside your final cut lines to keep your boards in line with each other. You do not need to park a truck on top of them to clamp them together. This will force all of the glue out from between the two pieces. Just apply even pressure until you start to squeeze glue out from all sides and you should be fine. A few gallon jugs of water or a few concrete blocks will be plenty of weight. Let your glue dry, make your final cuts and make sure to wrap the edges with plenty of glass and resin.

Make sure to use stainless hardware to reattach the transom boards and a little 5200 on them when you insert them into the holes. Some people will cut the holes larger than needed and fill with epoxy, then redrill through that just to make sure there is no way that any water will ever be able to penetrate the wood again. Overkill? Yeah, probably but something to think about.

Here's a good place to get epoxy and they have a good boat forum also.

https://boatbuildercentral.com/categories.php?id=50
 
Well I got some Alumabrite ordered and some Gluvit and I also ordered some US composite epoxy befor I read this lol I got my transome glued together I just used what I had I also used screws to clamp it I don't really think it will matter as long as they are not in the way of bolts or rivets. Most of it won't be seen and I will end up coating it with some bed liner anyway. Here's what I did.

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Make sure you have all your stuff ready to go. I also recommend getting a bucket of water to clean up this squeeze out. That stuff goes everywhere #-o

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I used the whole container of glue for this one!

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Make sure and spread the glue all the way to the edges. Make sure and cover everything. I used a sponge that I had prewetted a little. Worked great.

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Here's the way I clamped mine together. You don't have to do it this way but it worked great for me. I will remove any screw that is in the way of bolts or rivets. The screw holes will be filled with resin anyway. This way will defiantly get it done. Glue was everywhere!


Thanks spotco for those sources! I can't wait to get that Alumabrite. I'm ready to see all this stuff start coming back together! I was also planning on painting the aluminum where the transom goes with the Gluvit. You think that will be good? I just noticed spots where the aluminum starts to get powdery and I wanted to coat it with something and figured that would work good. Ill cut out my transom tomorrow. Thanks for the big help!
 
Yup, Gluvit everywhere inside that is questionable.

If it was me I'd go ahead and remove all those screws before you start resin. That way they will not in the way of anything when it comes time to cut, drill and install. After the glue dries, they are not going to be doing anything but sitting there anyways.
 
Well I haven't gotto work on this but a few minutes today. I am anxious about my epoxy and stuff coming in. Shipping takes to long! I did mark out my old transom it's better to cut a little at a time till you get it right. And remember the right tool for the job works wonders!

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Got it marked. Be aware of spots that are rotted off. I had some crooked lines at first :mrgreen:

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Way to small for this cut.Better get a bigger band saw

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:mrgreen: you know this maybe overkill!

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This is more like it!

I'll take some more pics when I get a chance to. I thought a little humor would be ok.
 
That's quite a project you have going! Keep up the good work, I've enjoyed reading so far. 8)
 
mcateercustom....I have been doing a little looking around about floatation thing and found a little outside the box solution. Give me your take on this idea. They make a thin walled PVC for non or low pressure plumbing. I was looking at SDR 41 in either 6" or 4" capped off on both ends or filed with foam and capped so you wouldn't have to worry about breach. I'm not sure the the buoyancy factor of air compared to foam so I wouldn't know which would be best but I would think air would be as buoyant as you can get. It is a Class 100 meaning working pressure of 100 PSI. I figure it can be cut to length, installed anywhere and taped together so it won't rattle.

This was the quote: ..."Another possibility would be to install thin-wall PVC drain-tile pipe (not schedule 40 pipe. This stuff is thinner, lighter, cheaper) capped off. As I figure is, a 4" tube X 10 feet would have 54, while 6" would have 150 pounds of buoyancy in freshwater."

https://www.livingreefs.com/very-thin-walled-pvc-get-t8345.html

What do you think?
 
You know this gets me to thinking! I just wonder. Have you seen the ping pong ball thing? Myth busters did a show on it. It all seems like it would work because air is better than foam, if you could get enough air packed in and around everything. You would defiantly have to get them held down by something to keep the noise down. I think that we should start a topic on foam vs air and see if you come up with any great ideas. Surely there would be a lot of them. The thin walled PVC around in my area is called CPVC. I may check into all this it sounds like it might not be a bad idea, you maybe on to something.

I have a question about foam. Everybody always talks about how foam takes on water. But I say what about the foam that holds floating docks up? That stuff I have seen in a lake for 20 years and it's still floating. My only thing is gas spills might destroy it, but could we not just bag it and with what kind of bag? I could fit a lot of that stuff around the front and then around the back maybe go your route. Or what about packing peanuts? Lol I'm sure that air would be great if you knew how much you needed but I am defiantly not a math guy. Could you use a flexible pipe? For that matter do they make a flexible pipe?
 
whiteboots16 said:
Man I'm haveing the same concerns about foam as you. I'm about to redo mine, and it has hardley any foam at all in it. I'm suprised the thing even floats.
Foam doesn't help it float,it actually adds weight.
It's only when your boat becomes swamped,that the foam helps.It keeps the boat from going to the bottom and perhaps giving you a place to hang on until help comes.
 
Cool deal. Nice boat! I am really just thinking sheets of styrofoam from home depot or lowes. The only drawback is fuel will make it melt. But to get by that I was thinking of spaying it with "epoxy resin" not the other resin it will melt it too. After I coat it really good I was thinking about bagging it in plastic just to make sure. I really think that it would work good. I might try some captured air tubes that were mentioned in some spots. The foam I don't think will take on water as long as its the same kind they use on floating docks. I haven't even heard anyone mention that. But they stay in lakes for years and years and dont get water logged. Just keep looking and digging, tons of great ideas out there?
 
Thanks guys! I'm totally in love with it already! Can't wait to see it done, but really enjoying what it takes to get it there. I got my epoxy in today! I ordered from US Composites too. That stuff works great and super easy with the pumps! Here's my transom

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Left my drill at work, had to do it the old fashion way! Here I am removing my extremely expensive and effective wood clamps! :mrgreen: Note: if you care or if this part on yours is seen, do not use my clamping method!

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Turned out great! Brushes on nicely. This is the first coat, I plan on using the whole bottle of resin. Maybe I'll get 3-4 coats on.

When I got the boat the transoms aluminum was ripped. I think they forgot to put the transom saver up plus the wood was rotten pretty good. I have decided to take drastic measures to make sure it doesn't happen again lol!

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My Ibeam brace! I found this cool little Ibeam behind the shop, no telling where it came from but I plan on putting some transom support from it to my jack plate bolts. I tend to over kill sometimes :mrgreen:
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Here's a close up of how I fit it to the rib or whatever you call it lol. I plan on putting a bolt through the side and maybe a rivet through the top.


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At least Bam-Bam is getting some use out of this boat!


That's all I had time to do today but I plan on hitting it hard tomorrow! So far I have about 11 hours in all on it. And probably about $150 in resin, glue, Gluvit And Alumabrite. Which should be here tomorrow. And I have another surprise coming tomorrow if all works out, can't wait!!

Other then the boat I did manage to make a duck call today.

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I like it!


I would like to say Thanks to all the help and support! I wouldnt make it without it. Till next time! Have a great night.
 
Im in the process of doing my build. At tractor supply they get big blocks of closed cell foam from the shipping of their utility trailers. I went by last sunday and they said to come back wednesday cause thats when they get a new shipment and they would have some. FREE :mrgreen: so you might want to check that out.
 

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