So I've been lurking on here getting ideas and watching some cool mods, but there were very few, if any building boats for running skinny water in the pursuit it Salmon, Steelhead and big trout in the Pacific Northwest.
HOPEFULLY this post finds its way to other fisherman in the PNW looking to build or modify in a similar manner to chase these fish.
I bought a newer G3 1852 Outfitter and customized it ton add storage, floorboards, oats, forward fuel tank, rod trays, fast water anchor caddy and anchor line storage.
I live in Southcentral Aalska and fish aforementioned anadromous fish by these methods:
- swinging flies with two hand fly rods by wading long runs
- pulling plugs then rowing or at anchor
- drift fishing with beads or bait
The boat has a 40hp YAMAHA jet on a power lift with a prop I can change our if running deeper water and I need to freight hear when camping or to run out a dead moose.
I added 3/8 AC plywood floors, custom cut around the ribs. I painted them with a neutral garage floor paint and shook silica sand on top of the boards to add traction when the floor is wet and walking in wading boots.
I moved the 12 gallon fuel tank to the front 1/3 over the boat to put more weight forward and allow me to get on step faster and easier when running. Added small 1x2 strip to wedge tank against seat and prevent it from moving when running or driving trailered.
Added 14'x6" rod trays. These are great to keep 9'-14' fly rods out of the way when running. Great place to throw flies, forceps, plugs and other crap used when fishing. Bought the aluminum locally at a metal shop and had them use a break to bend it at the right angle. My friend helped me weld and rivet them in place on the boat. Painted trays G3 green and lined with rubber diamond plate and put runner strips on edges. Reels sit in rear corner pockets of boat.
Added anchor caddie to front for danforth or Kenai River spade anchor. Allows to bat anchor when running boat and for quick release to drop anchor from rear of boat while I'm running the tiller.
Did some cutting and foam mining to create two storage spaces in boat for PFDs, flares, grease gun, fly boxes, raingear and lunch.
Sliding mount for action seat for me in the back. Last seat was mounted on left side where I stand when running the tiller. Added a long slider so I can move seat out of the way or to the position I want when anchored or sitting and running motor.
Oar locks. For drift fishing or pulling plugs. Had it out on the water and it doesn't row bad for an 18' boat. I can keep fairly stopped in a moderate current. Used some stock angled aluminum from Lowes for the support and bought the pre-made UHMW blocks and oar locks from local rafting store. It rows pretty well with 9.5' breakdown carlisle oars.
G3 comes stick with that awkward hole in the bow where they spray the foam in. I had some thin rubber sheeting welded into a large stuff sack six, cut a hole in the plastic cap covering the hole and the screwed it back on and through the sheeting. Sort of an anchor like stuff sack to keep all the line not being used out of the boat.
I mixed fuel and battery lines to other side of transom since I run tiller with left hand, but other than than the rear is the same.
Still going to add cup holders and some rod holders for plug rods.
Also maybe add a propane tank in center and run like for some MR heater units for passengers up front and me in the back.
Not as fancy as some of the awesome projects I've seen on here, but bc I want to still be able to get on step and run this boat through tight spots in about 4" of water with a heavy load, every little bit added counts.
I welcome any suggestions for additional mods or critique on how I can adjust and improve.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
HOPEFULLY this post finds its way to other fisherman in the PNW looking to build or modify in a similar manner to chase these fish.
I bought a newer G3 1852 Outfitter and customized it ton add storage, floorboards, oats, forward fuel tank, rod trays, fast water anchor caddy and anchor line storage.
I live in Southcentral Aalska and fish aforementioned anadromous fish by these methods:
- swinging flies with two hand fly rods by wading long runs
- pulling plugs then rowing or at anchor
- drift fishing with beads or bait
The boat has a 40hp YAMAHA jet on a power lift with a prop I can change our if running deeper water and I need to freight hear when camping or to run out a dead moose.
I added 3/8 AC plywood floors, custom cut around the ribs. I painted them with a neutral garage floor paint and shook silica sand on top of the boards to add traction when the floor is wet and walking in wading boots.
I moved the 12 gallon fuel tank to the front 1/3 over the boat to put more weight forward and allow me to get on step faster and easier when running. Added small 1x2 strip to wedge tank against seat and prevent it from moving when running or driving trailered.
Added 14'x6" rod trays. These are great to keep 9'-14' fly rods out of the way when running. Great place to throw flies, forceps, plugs and other crap used when fishing. Bought the aluminum locally at a metal shop and had them use a break to bend it at the right angle. My friend helped me weld and rivet them in place on the boat. Painted trays G3 green and lined with rubber diamond plate and put runner strips on edges. Reels sit in rear corner pockets of boat.
Added anchor caddie to front for danforth or Kenai River spade anchor. Allows to bat anchor when running boat and for quick release to drop anchor from rear of boat while I'm running the tiller.
Did some cutting and foam mining to create two storage spaces in boat for PFDs, flares, grease gun, fly boxes, raingear and lunch.
Sliding mount for action seat for me in the back. Last seat was mounted on left side where I stand when running the tiller. Added a long slider so I can move seat out of the way or to the position I want when anchored or sitting and running motor.
Oar locks. For drift fishing or pulling plugs. Had it out on the water and it doesn't row bad for an 18' boat. I can keep fairly stopped in a moderate current. Used some stock angled aluminum from Lowes for the support and bought the pre-made UHMW blocks and oar locks from local rafting store. It rows pretty well with 9.5' breakdown carlisle oars.
G3 comes stick with that awkward hole in the bow where they spray the foam in. I had some thin rubber sheeting welded into a large stuff sack six, cut a hole in the plastic cap covering the hole and the screwed it back on and through the sheeting. Sort of an anchor like stuff sack to keep all the line not being used out of the boat.
I mixed fuel and battery lines to other side of transom since I run tiller with left hand, but other than than the rear is the same.
Still going to add cup holders and some rod holders for plug rods.
Also maybe add a propane tank in center and run like for some MR heater units for passengers up front and me in the back.
Not as fancy as some of the awesome projects I've seen on here, but bc I want to still be able to get on step and run this boat through tight spots in about 4" of water with a heavy load, every little bit added counts.
I welcome any suggestions for additional mods or critique on how I can adjust and improve.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
