Not a match made in heaven!

[Livn]

I posted a couple mods last year right after I got this little boat. Now I’m working on the trailer. It is a pain in the butt to get off and on the trailer!!! I have to practically submerge the trailer to get her off and on. She has 2 bottom bunks (too short me thinks) and a keel rest. After reading other posts I’m guessing the trailer may be too short for the boat. Here’s the pics I do have. I’d appreciate any advice on making this setup work better.

 

[airshot]

In my opinion, the bunks need to be longer to stick out the rear of the boat. I would also make them wider by flipping the bunk board 90 degrees. Add side guides ( not posts) to keep your boat centered. I would exchange that front support for a roller.

 

[Livn]

In my opinion, the bunks need to be longer to stick out the rear of the boat. I would also make them wider by flipping the bunk board 90 degrees. Add side guides ( not posts) to keep your boat centered. I would exchange that front support for a roller.

Makes sense; how do I add side guides?

 

[overboard]

Can you move the winch post forward on the tongue to get the boat further on the trailer, I would also install longer bunk boards that lay flat and add a roller as suggested.

 

[airshot]

Makes sense; how do I add side guides?

Some folks with fabricating skills make their own, but most folks buy a kit. A 90 degree square pipe that clamps on the trailer frame and the upright has a piece of carpeted lumber along the side of the boat to keep it centered while loading and unloading. I would never have a trailer without them.

 

[Livn]

Can you move the winch post forward on the tongue to get the boat further on the trailer, I would also install longer bunk boards that lay flat and add a roller as suggested.

Unfortunately I can’t move the post forward.
I’ll definitely be replacing the bunks.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

When you hang a motor on the transom, you will probably need to put all your gear in the bow. Otherwise, the tail may wag the dog.

 

[boatyard]

It definitely needs longer bunks, I like mine to stick out the back past the transom at least 6". I made my own guides but they really aren't needed. My trailer similar to that and what I do is back in the water to the point where the tires are just about submerged, the weight of the motor and fuel tank make the boat slighly tail heavy so it tips rearward as it slides back. Some silicone spray o the carpet does wonders for getting it to slide but a light boat should be an issue.
Mine will slide into the water once its about 3ft back from the winch post.

For loading, I don't go in as deep, I only wet about 3ft of the end of the bunks. I then drive onto the trailer and give the motor a bit of a push to stick the boat. It'll push about half way onto the trailer that way.

I put an eye hook on right side of the trailer atop the side guide that lets me reach down and grab the winch cable so I can clip it on to the bow before getting out of the boat. I also have an electric winch on a remote control so I can pull the boat fully into place from inside my boat if I wish but rarely is it needed. I can usually just grab the cable and pull the boat up myself just by pulling on the cable a bit.


If your having trouble getting the boat to stay on the bunks, your in too deep and/or the bunks are too short.

A front roller can help but only if your dealing with a heavier boat, most small boats don't weigh but a few hundred pounds plus the motor and fuel weight.

Once the boat is 2/3rds of the way on it should sit flat on the bunks and not be trying to flip backwards off the bunks.

On my trailers, the axles are fairly far forward mainly because we have a bunch of ramps that have sharp drop offs at the end not that far into the water. A trailer with a set back axle can drop off the edge before the boat hits the water at a few ramps.
I only take my 14ft boat that 's on a tilt trailer to the one lake because its impossible to back in deep enough to float the boat. The far end of the ramp is only about a 18" deep or so.
Many of the newer ramps are made this way.
My truck's front tires will be 4ft from the top of the ramp in 3" of water and the bottom of the boat's stern will not yet be wet. The ramp goes out 18ft into the water then drops off to 5ft all at once. with the boat trailer tires at the edge, most boats are not yet floating. A tilt trailer is a must. What I do there is to not use the ramp at all, I back up the edge of the water next to the ramp, pull the tilt pin and just dump the boat in. To unload I tilt the trailer and winch it out.

 

[Still Afloat]

The load should be positioned for proper trailer balance over the axle. Moving the axle forward for loading convenience with disregard to the above is unsafe. Likewise, placing a long boat on a short trailer is a bad idea.

 

[headduck]

I launch on unimproved ramps routinely and made a few improvements to assist.

I added starboard strips to the bunks for easy release, roller at the stern, roller 3/4 towards bow, and tilted the bunks slightly raising the fronts so they slope towards the rear. Eases the angle of approach on shallow slope ramps.

Loading and unloading is super fast and pretty painless.

Starboard can be had cheap at taps plastics surplus area, if you have one near.

A few online trailer supply shops sell all the various brackets if needed.

 

[airshot]

As you make adjustments to the trailer, don't forget about tongue weight. You need a good 10% of the total boat weight on the trailer tongue. To light and it will sway going down the road !!

 

[LDUBS]

In my opinion, the bunks need to be longer to stick out the rear of the boat. I would also make them wider by flipping the bunk board 90 degrees. Add side guides ( not posts) to keep your boat centered. I would exchange that front support for a roller.

X2 -- Flipping the bunks to the flat side will lower the boat a little bit, making things a little easier.

I would keep a lookout for a decently priced used trailer of correct size along with someone looking for a trailer the size you have. Might get lucky.

 

[Livn]

Some folks with fabricating skills make their own, but most folks buy a kit. A 90 degree square pipe that clamps on the trailer frame and the upright has a piece of carpeted lumber along the side of the boat to keep it centered while loading and unloading. I would never have a trailer without them.

Thanks airshot. How much clearance should there be on each side?

X2 -- Flipping the bunks to the flat side will lower the boat a little bit, making things a little easier.

I would keep a lookout for a decently priced used trailer of correct size along with someone looking for a trailer the size you have. Might get lucky.

LDUBS, my first wish! I live in Central Oregon and rarely see anything decent out there! I’ve been looking since I got this.
I’ll definitely flip the boards though

 

[Livn]

It definitely needs longer bunks, I like mine to stick out the back past the transom at least 6". I made my own guides but they really aren't needed. My trailer similar to that and what I do is back in the water to the point where the tires are just about submerged, the weight of the motor and fuel tank make the boat slighly tail heavy so it tips rearward as it slides back. Some silicone spray o the carpet does wonders for getting it to slide but a light boat should be an issue.
Mine will slide into the water once its about 3ft back from the winch post.

For loading, I don't go in as deep, I only wet about 3ft of the end of the bunks. I then drive onto the trailer and give the motor a bit of a push to stick the boat. It'll push about half way onto the trailer that way.

I put an eye hook on right side of the trailer atop the side guide that lets me reach down and grab the winch cable so I can clip it on to the bow before getting out of the boat. I also have an electric winch on a remote control so I can pull the boat fully into place from inside my boat if I wish but rarely is it needed. I can usually just grab the cable and pull the boat up myself just by pulling on the cable a bit.


If your having trouble getting the boat to stay on the bunks, your in too deep and/or the bunks are too short.

A front roller can help but only if your dealing with a heavier boat, most small boats don't weigh but a few hundred pounds plus the motor and fuel weight.

Once the boat is 2/3rds of the way on it should sit flat on the bunks and not be trying to flip backwards off the bunks.

On my trailers, the axles are fairly far forward mainly because we have a bunch of ramps that have sharp drop offs at the end not that far into the water. A trailer with a set back axle can drop off the edge before the boat hits the water at a few ramps.
I only take my 14ft boat that 's on a tilt trailer to the one lake because its impossible to back in deep enough to float the boat. The far end of the ramp is only about a 18" deep or so.
Many of the newer ramps are made this way.
My truck's front tires will be 4ft from the top of the ramp in 3" of water and the bottom of the boat's stern will not yet be wet. The ramp goes out 18ft into the water then drops off to 5ft all at once. with the boat trailer tires at the edge, most boats are not yet floating. A tilt trailer is a must. What I do there is to not use the ramp at all, I back up the edge of the water next to the ramp, pull the tilt pin and just dump the boat in. To unload I tilt the trailer and winch it out.

I really appreciate the info and advice. I should have said I only use a trolling motor on this one.

 

[Livn]

When you hang a motor on the transom, you will probably need to put all your gear in the bow. Otherwise, the tail may wag the dog.

I only use a trolling motor on this girl

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I only use a trolling motor on this girl

As already stated, you want about 10% of the weight on the tongue. Might need to move battery or gear toward the front during transport. Trailer sway can get out of hand very quickly.

 

[Livn]

As already stated, you want about 10% of the weight on the tongue. Might need to move battery or gear toward the front during transport. Trailer sway can get out of hand very quickly.

Thanks,

 

[airshot]

My side guides only have 1/2- 3/4" clearance on each side...boat stays in the center no matter what.

 

[Livn]

My side guides only have 1/2- 3/4" clearance on each side...boat stays in the center no matter what.

thanks

 

[OldSailor85]

Just my 2 cents. I just finished "overhauling" a trailer that's technically too small for my boat. Weight capacity is not an issue, it's the boat width and length.

Installed bunks right next to the keel as well as out at the chine. The boat is 16' and the center bunks are 12', those at the chines are 10'.

Your rig is very light, so you can get away with a little bit. I imagine the whole rig weighs less than 1000 pounds. No trailer brakes, etc.

The lower the boat rides on the trailer, the easier to launch. Flip the bunks and make them a foot longer to the rear (you will need different brackets). On a semi-v, take the bunks as far forward as practicable. Ideally, they should be out of the water at the bow end. You will be limited by the crossmember location.

If you have little or zero deadrise use side bunks or guides to center the boat. Or use the strakes (there's probably a better word) and bunk location to center the boat.

A well fitted trailer will allow the boat to ride between the wheels, not on top of them.