Oars & OarLock Questions

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uncndl1

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This is a new post about oars and OarLocks.
Previous work on transom and seats is found here:
https://www.tinboats.net/threads/wards-sea-king-aluminum-boat.39891/
Steering and controls were added here:
https://www.tinboats.net/threads/adding-steering-to-old-wards-sea-king.50451/
One of my oars broke last time out on the water and have questions about re-using old OarLock (s) versus buying new ones for the new oars I purchased.
Note: I’m 70 years old and weigh in at 250# at 6’3” tall
I didn’t like being stranded when the paddle broke and at the mercy of a Boston Whaler nice enough to tow me back to shore.
There are several styles 1. Open, 2. Closed, 3. Pinned, 4. Un-pinned etc.
It seems like drilling a hole into new oars might weaken the wood. What are your thoughts on drilling a hole in the new oars and using a “pinned” OarLock versus a clamp on style or round OarLock with a collar?
 

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Open oar locks take some time to get used to them, I prefer pinned or the clamp on type. To easy to loose an oar if not held in position !! Never had a pinned oar break at the hole, no worries there.
 
Open oar locks take some time to get used to them, I prefer pinned or the clamp on type. To easy to loose an oar if not held in position !! Never had a pinned oar break at the hole, no worries there.
So are you for re-using my old OarLocks and drilling holes in the new oars?
If so, how do I set up to drill holes properly?
 

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You don't....if you are a serious rower then you use serious equipment, around here, oars are an emergency tool if your motor conks out...If rowing is your means of moving, then that is another issue, I was under the impression the poster was just looking for repairs
 
So are you for re-using my old OarLocks and drilling holes in the new oars?
If so, how do I set up to drill holes properly?
Not rocket science...put oars into position then drill thru. Now I suppose there is some fancy formula to figure out, but in my 60 years of boating never used anything but eyes and where they feel right. Then again, my oars are just something to get me to shore if my motor quits
 
Do NOT use 'pinned' oars!

When it ultimately breaks ... and it will ... it will be when you needed it most and you may fall out of the boat or get hurt as result ... and then you'll recall I advised against it ...

Put 'collars' on the oar with the 'full ring' oar lock put onto to it before the collar is added. You'll never lose one or forget one and when the oar is properly sized to the beam of the boat, they make rowing much more efficient.

Link to DIY making your own (or they sell plastic ones) = How to Leather Oars, DIY leathering.

Oar.jpg
 
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I am not a professional rower by any means but, I have used nothing but pinned oars in my over 60 yrs of boating, never have I had an oar break !!! You gotta be puttin some serious pressure on an oar to break it, not sayin it won't happen under certain conditions, but I have never been or saw anyone in that position with that kind of pressure...then again I don't boat in the ocean !!
 
With my luck am planning on adding oars. Even with a new motor I can just see myself stranded. Pinned oars makes sense to me.
 
I surely appreciate all the above responses and I’m glad there’s plenty of experience out there to educate me!
I can attest that yes, we broke an oar while out in Newport bay in Rhode Island on this 1970 Boat after our outboard quit working. I ordered new oars, which are not quite as wide on the handle and they are only one and a half inches thick. I was going to just drill new holes, it looks like the pin is 3/16 in diameter and the hole is slightly bigger… I decided to ask the question as I’ll be passing this along to one of the grand children or nieces or nephews in 20 years or so…
I found that yes, there is the formula in that you would measure the beam of your boat add 2 inches and divide that number in half and that should be the length from the end of your order to where you would attach your locks:
 

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I’m going to try out using closed OarLocks with a collar at 30”.
My beam is 58 inches at the oarlock brackets.
My original ones are open and I’d have to drill a hole into the new oars to use them.
 

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Dale H and his response is IMO the best option, that said I used to row a lot when I was younger and never had an oar break (I bought them pinned in a garage sale). They also sell "O" rings that you can put on the oar on either side of where you want to position it.
 
Freeze dried oars would be nice. Just keep them sealed in a little air tight bag until you need them. When the motor quits working rip the bag open and add water.

Right now my oars are the trolling motor.
 
Freeze dried oars would be nice. Just keep them sealed in a little air tight bag until you need them. When the motor quits working rip the bag open and add water.

Right now my oars are the trolling motor.
I hear ya, my only oars arre on my 12' jon boat now....I have a nice bow mount TM with 8 hrs of battery capacity and a small kicker motor along with the main motor, my chances of needing/ using oars are slim to none !!
 
What's an oar?:giggle:
Englishman out rowing on the river when a large wave hits his boat and he loses his oars. He spots a guy rowing the other way on the river with two women in his boat. So he yells over "I say old man, would you have a pair of oars?" Guy yells back "no, it's me wife and me mother in law."
 

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