Ouatchita 16' semi V transom repair

[OuatchitaNick]

Have this old 70's boat needing to replace transom board but it's covered completely in aluminum on the inside, I'm sure I'll have to cut the aluminum from approx 1" from top of the edge. And also possible remove the knee brace even though I'd rather not die to not knowing how to replace the rivets going through the hull. Maybe I could use bolts to replace the brace through the hull? Any opinions would help.

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[Weldorthemagnificent]

I've seen these old ouachitas. Good boats but transom definitely not designed to be serviced. Your best bet is to enlist the help of a local aluminum welder. The transom caps will have to come off and zip off the top of the transom at the top corners. You should be able to slide new board in and replace the top by either welding back, or what I have done in the past is make a transom cap in an inverted U shape that will bolt over the top. Then you can weld the corner caps on or make them where they bolt on.

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[OuatchitaNick]

I've seen these old ouachitas. Good boats but transom definitely not designed to be serviced. Your best bet is to enlist the help of a local aluminum welder. The transom caps will have to come off and zip off the top of the transom at the top corners. You should be able to slide new board in and replace the top by either welding back, or what I have done in the past is make a transom cap in an inverted U shape that will bolt over the top. Then you can weld the corner caps on or make them where they bolt on.

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Well that's what I was worried about, really the underneath doesn't seem horrible but was just going to replace it as I do with all my boats. The previous owner has placed a 3/4 piece of plywood to the outside. I was thinking if I removed rivets from the brace and took a cutoff wheel to the aluminum to reveal the wood I could tilt it out without cutting the top off. If I cut the top part off it will be quite a bit of work.

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[1960 yellowboat]

It looks to me that you could disconnect the brace at the top and then take all the bolts out of the transom and then slide the old wood out. Personally, I'd rather use a piece of 1x12 pine or oak for the new wood. 1x12 is about 3/4 inch in thickness and even after you seal it, should slide under the aluminum.A rubber mallet might be necessary to coax it in. That and a new outer motor plate should do the trick. Then reattach the brace with stainless bolts with nylon washers where the stainless meets the aluminum.

 

[DaleH]

Make it EASY on yourself ... cut off the corner brackets so you can re-use them and bolt them back on. The transom trim cap can be replaced by aluminum U-channel. I’d advise using good ply coated with epoxy (preferred) or the less effective old timers formula. Bolt it all back together, use aluminum nails to secure the new U-channel trim cap, done!

 

[OuatchitaNick]

Make it EASY on yourself ... cut off the corner brackets so you can re-use them and bolt them back on. The transom trim cap can be replaced by aluminum U-channel. I’d advise using good ply coated with epoxy (preferred) or the less effective old timers formula. Bolt it all back together, use aluminum nails to secure the new U-channel trim cap, done!

I would normally just buzz the top off with a cutoff tool but this boat is all welded around the top corner brace and don't want to cut it,

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[OuatchitaNick]

It looks to me that you could disconnect the brace at the top and then take all the bolts out of the transom and then slide the old wood out. Personally, I'd rather use a piece of 1x12 pine or oak for the new wood. 1x12 is about 3/4 inch in thickness and even after you seal it, should slide under the aluminum.A rubber mallet might be necessary to coax it in. That and a new outer motor plate should do the trick. Then reattach the brace with stainless bolts with nylon washers where the stainless meets the aluminum.

I think I may end up just taking the brace completely out as you mentioned and then I will just use my cut off tool to remove the aluminum covering the board to make it easier. I think if I cut it off about an inch from the very top all the way across it will be ok. The previous owner had a 9.9 cranked down so tight it punched through the aluminum cover anyhow. And when I put it back together just use stainless panhead screws to go through the brace that is attached through the hull. Or just buy some solid brazer rivets like they did from factory

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[DaleH]

To what the other guy suggested, cut down on the inside about an inch down or so, and just replace with new wood. Look at the picture I posted below (2-ply transom) 1 piece went down around the knee and the other piece is above the knee. Knees are removeable and simple to re-install, I can even send you rivets.

 

[OuatchitaNick]

To what the other guy suggested, cut down on the inside about an inch down or so, and just replace with new wood. Look at the picture I posted below (2-ply transom) 1 piece went down around the knee and the other piece is above the knee. Knees are removeable and simple to re-install, I can even send you rivets.

Ok what type of rivets would you suggest to reinstall the brace through the hull? I've seen closed end rivets but not sure if they would be strong enough. Is it very difficult to install the solid type rivet like they use to manufacture rivited boats?

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[DaleH]

Solid - simple. Can hand buck/install if needed, but would still but the special $10 tool that matches the ‘mushroom’ head shape. If you get that set tool and a friend has a air hammer & pancake compressor, you’re golden!

Tell me what length is needed and I can send rivets.

 

[OuatchitaNick]

Solid - simple. Can hand buck/install if needed, but would still but the special $10 tool that matches the ‘mushroom’ head shape. If you get that set tool and a friend has a air hammer & pancake compressor, you’re golden!

Tell me what length is needed and I can send rivets.

I've got a compressor and I think I can get an air hammer for reasonable price and make one of the adapters for it work to drive rivets. I'm not sure what the length would be I'm waiting til fishing season is Dene before I tear into it lol

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[DaleH]

IMHO not spending $10 for the proper ‘brazier’ head 3/16” tool to set the rivets ‘once and done’ is foolish, but whatever ...

https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=41248&p=419799&hilit=%2410+rivet+tool#p419799