Our project boat- 1977 Blue Fin Sea Hawk

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daschmetterling

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Ok, like so many of you, I have been following all these builds and have been getting inspired for one of my own. What a great community of people on this site! So here is mine, or I should say "ours", since this project belongs to me and 2 other fishing buddies. We have been looking for a 16' jon boat for several years, and would ideally have a jet for running rivers to fish. But, with our budget, we ended up with this v hull, 16' sea hawk, and a 2003 50 hp Johnson prop. We have a lot of ideas for the boat, and it is just going to be set up as a serious fishing rig, with a center console and not much else to make room for trotline gear, rods, and big fish (hopefully).
Today was our first day on the build, we put 2 new tires on the trailer, replaced seals and bearings, made some adustments to the winch and bow stop, and set about to remove the transom. Since we are starting from nearly scratch on the boat, we figured now was the time to replace the one piece of wood. I got out all 30 or so rusted screws and bolts, remived the splash deck drain cylinder, remived a half dozen rivets, scraped off the old caulk, and even cut back some aluminum trim on the gunwale to easily get the transom out and in easily (this will be covered by end caps, so you won't see my cuts).
That all went pretty smoothly, but we still can't get the transom out!
That is what lead me to write a post- I need your advice! Any tricks?
We actually attached the transom to a chain connected to a winch on the ceiling, and ended up lifting the boat off the trailer (with me in it), and hammering and prying did nothing to budge it!
The only thing I can think is that the plywood transom is so waterlogged and swollen that the ends on the side are wedged.
 

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try this - - - get some really long lag bolts and some chain that the lag bolts will
pass through, screw them down into the transom wood. Make loops for a 4x4 to pass thru.
put the 4x4 across the stern and try to "persuade" it up with a bottle jack under the
end of the 4x4. Then, switch to the other end......... you get the idea ?
transom lift.jpg






.
 
I can't see in the pictures but try prying up on the bottom of the transom with a 2x4.
 
a photo of the inside of the boat showing the full wood part will be of help to the gallery.
If you think the wood is swollen that much, maybe some vertical relief cuts
with a skil-saw ?? If all that effort does not work, you may have have some adhesive
issues to address . . . . but, why would anyone want to glue a transom board into place ?
 
Johnny said:
try this - - - get some really long lag bolts and some chain that the lag bolts will
pass through, screw them down into the transom wood. Make loops for a 4x4 to pass thru.
put the 4x4 across the stern and try to "persuade" it up with a bottle jack under the
end of the 4x4. Then, switch to the other end......... you get the idea ?







.
Great idea- we'll try that. Right now we have it in a heated shop, hopefully drying out.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
I can't see in the pictures but try prying up on the bottom of the transom with a 2x4.
Unfortunately, there is no way to pry it from underneath because of a bracket it rests on. Thanks for the comments!
 
Johnny said:
a photo of the inside of the boat showing the full wood part will be of help to the gallery.
If you think the wood is swollen that much, maybe some vertical relief cuts
with a skil-saw ?? If all that effort does not work, you may have have some adhesive
issues to address . . . . but, why would anyone want to glue a transom board into place ?
View attachment 1View attachment 2
Johhny- thanks for the comments and advice! Here are a few photos that show the inside of the transom. All the aluminum is unscrewed from the transom, and you can easily pry it away from the plywood.
I hope there is no adhesive involved!
The only spots we can't see are on the edges on the sides (port and starboard), that is why I think it must just be swelling.
We tried some relief cuts, briefly, and that might be the best solution.
Thanks again!
 

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lckstckn2smknbrls said:
You may have to remove the splashwell.
I was afraid of that. It doesn't look like it is attached to the plywood anywhere (now that I have removed all the fasteners).
Am I missing something? Hidden fasteners?
We are going to try to jack it out again tonight.
 
We found the problem. After using bottle jacks on the gunwale and even floor jacks and posts (in the picture)didn't budge the transom, we found the hidden fasteners (in the photo at the tip of the screw driver).
We'll try again with a reciprocating saw to cut out the screws.
 
Nice looking project with a great base to start with. The way this hull is built it reminds me of many of the old Starcrafts.

Seems to me that sometimes removing a whole solid transom can be as much of a pain as removing an old rotted one and having to dig everything out.

Keep updating your work and I'll follow along.

Best o luck and tight lines!
 
bonz_d said:
Nice looking project with a great base to start with. The way this hull is built it reminds me of many of the old Starcrafts.

Seems to me that sometimes removing a whole solid transom can be as much of a pain as removing an old rotted one and having to dig everything out.

Keep updating your work and I'll follow along.

Best o luck and tight lines!
Thank you- it should be a fun project and we'll definitely post updates on our progress and especially questions!
 
We got the transom out! Two hidden screws was all that was keeping it in. 5 minutes with a reciprocating saw did the trick.
View attachment 1
 

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For a new transom, we were thinking laminating 2 pieces of 3/4" ACX plywood and priming it with an oil based primer (then painting it to match whatever color we decide on).
Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
 
ACX will work just fine as I have used it on a few transoms myself over the years. I've also been laminating them together using Tite-bond 3 and so far haven't had a failure of the joint.

As for sealing the plywood a member on another forum recommended this and I've been using on everything ever since.

1 part mineral spirits, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts spar urethane. Apply it until it start to pool then remove excess. Allow to dry for 48hrs and then apply 2 or 3 coats of straight spar. It will feel dry after a few hours but it really needs the extra time because of the linseed oil. You can also paint over it if you don't want to use the spar finish.

I just finished doing this to the transom that I'm replacing in my Sea Nymph and also used it to seal the plywood in the decking..
 
bonz_d said:
ACX will work just fine as I have used it on a few transoms myself over the years. I've also been laminating them together using Tite-bond 3 and so far haven't had a failure of the joint.

As for sealing the plywood a member on another forum recommended this and I've been using on everything ever since.

1 part mineral spirits, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts spar urethane. Apply it until it start to pool then remove excess. Allow to dry for 48hrs and then apply 2 or 3 coats of straight spar. It will feel dry after a few hours but it really needs the extra time because of the linseed oil. You can also paint over it if you don't want to use the spar finish.

I just finished doing this to the transom that I'm replacing in my Sea Nymph and also used it to seal the plywood in the decking..
Great tips- thank you!
 
I went with ACX and Tite bond 3 for the transom. I'm clamping it up now, and once we get that back into the boat, the next step is prepping the hull for paint.
 

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Boy does that look familiar! I kept mine clamped for 50hrs. Which it really didn't feel like it because I had other things I was working on at the same time and it still isn't in.

Did you decide on how you are going to seal it?
 

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