Painting problem..Johnny and anyone else, too, please.

[richg99]

Well, ever since I bought my most recent boat (2007 1756VT Lowe), I keep on discovering new "issues" 99% of which were created by the Prior Owner.

His background was a career Air Force Airplane Mechanic, he said. Assuming that was true, .....ah...never mind.

Anyhow, the current "issue" which I discovered an hour ago, is serious flaking of the black Rustoleum paint with which he covered the hull. I know it was Gloss Black Rustoleum because everything else that he painted was done with Rustoleum, and also because he told me that paint was what he used.

This afternoon, after NOT striking anything, I found that a one-foot area (approximate) has peeled off. It would appear to this non-painter type that he didn't properly prepare the original olive drab Lowe Paint.

Any ideas?

 

[Johnny]

he didn't properly prepare the original olive drab Lowe Paint.

yes, that looks obvious.
I am pretty sure you have the skill set to do it correctly.
just keep the spray paint on hand as it looks like this could be an on-going issue.
you know the tune - - - round and round she goes - where she stops, nobody knows.

 

[richg99]

Thanks, Johnny. Yes, it appears that this may well be a continuing problem.

I wouldn't mind sanding and re-painting that small area, but if the "issue" is going to cover most of the bottom of the boat, I'm not too willing to take that on. Crawling around under a boat trailer with a spray can doesn't hold any allure for me.

I just mentioned this problem to my wife. Her response was "why not go and have it done?". If Maaco or any other paint shop would do it for a not-too-high of a price, I'd have them do it!

What do you think?

rich

 

[Stumpalump]

Scuff with scotch brite pad and touch it up with rustoleum rattle can. P

 

[SeaFaring]

Where a paint shop will nail you is in the prep work unless you’re willing to do it yourself. Painting happens rapidly in a booth. But getting a sound layer for it to adhere to sounds like a nightmare.


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[overboard]

From what that looks like I would say that's only the beginning and will be a ongoing problem just as Johnny has stated.
Maybe if you wait long enough it will all peel off! :roll:

 

[beetlespin]

Thanks, Johnny. Yes, it appears that this may well be a continuing problem.

I wouldn't mind sanding and re-painting that small area, but if the "issue" is going to cover most of the bottom of the boat, I'm not too willing to take that on. Crawling around under a boat trailer with a spray can doesn't hold any allure for me.

I just mentioned this problem to my wife. Her response was "why not go and have it done?". If Maaco or any other paint shop would do it for a not-too-high of a price, I'd have them do it!

What do you think?

rich

I have been thinking about having a paint shop (not Maaco) do my boat the same color as my truck. Just the sides, back, and a little down the bow. Let us know what you find out $$$.

 

[FishinLite]

When I did my boat, I talked to about 12 local body shops about having my 16' Lund painted inside and out.

On the outside I had it painted from the chime to the gunnel.

When looking for estimates, I got "NO BOATS" to many of thousands of dollars. The shop that I settled on gave me an estimate of $1000.

Other than bringing it in spotlessly clean and de-waxed. The rest of the surface prep they did, including DA'ing the whole thing.

They used the boat for fill work and had it for a month.

It came out great. I brought the seats in for a color match. I did the graphic work.

 

[Johnny]

Rich - in your sample photo, with the affected area enlarged,
I don't see a primer. so, apparently the P/O just sprayed some paint
over the hull for cosmetics and to get it ready to sell without the proper (time consuming) prep.
(like a lot of people do with outboards just to spruce it up for a better sale).



you know that I am a big fan of Rust-Oleum products. I know for a fact that the rattle can
paints will stick to just about anything if prepped, primed and painted in accordance with the
instructions on the can. [five years ago, I touched up a few places on my van with white rattle can to cover up
some mall yard buggy dings without the sanding, priming, and prepping. it is just now starting
to peel off and is time to do it again. I have more time now, so I will do it correctly].

you could get lucky and only that area was contaminated prior to spray painting which failed.
or - on the nightmare side; the P/O didn't give a hoot about the next owner as long as he got rid of it.
then you will be touching up every year. the normal procedure for painting over questionable surfaces
is to test it first........ this will be your test area. sand off loose paint, feather the edges, scuff existing surface,
degrease with soap, quick wipe with acetone or lacquer thinner, prime appropriately and repaint.
or just say to heck with it and just spray like the P/O did and go boating.
do not use self etching primers or oxidizers like OSPHO on painted surfaces.
Just plain gray primer and topcoat paint from the same mfg.

and on the subject of Rust-Oleum; I was in my local Tractor Supply the other day and noticed that R/O is now
carried by T/S and the T/S store brand is fading out. So if anyone is really stuck on T/S brand paints,
I would suggest buying an ample supply now as it may be gone soon from all stores.

jus my Dos Centavos



.

 

[richg99]

Johnny, et al... Your comments are very timely.

First (for those who had interest in the costs to have it re-painted.)..I stopped at Maaco and the local location doesn't do boats at all. I also stopped at a "Wrap" dealer. They, also, don't do boats.

Both of those stops were on the way from the gym to my boat barn, so no time lost.

I took a paint scraper and tried to work up a larger area of flaking. Other than another inch or so, it seems that the rest of the immediate area is sticking pretty well.

"you could get lucky and only that area was contaminated prior to spray painting which failed."

For now, I am going with the "only area contaminated" premise. I, lucky for me, just stopped home to get my Orbital sander. That gave me a chance to read your helpful comments. I hadn't planned on using Acetone since it is so aggressive, but I will now.

I will now proceed to sand; clean; prime, and paint with the same Gloss Black Rustoleum that is on the rest of the hull. ....

Oh, and I will Pray that this pestilence stops at the one location. Heck, if it doesn't, I don't mind re-painting small areas from time to time.

I like working on my boats, but painting isn't as much fun as "wrenching" something. Ha Ha

Thanks again for all of your help.

I won't get her back out for a week or two now. Winter is arriving in Houston for Christmas, so I'll not be chasing any fish for a while.
Rich

 

[Ebug]

Rich, I highly recommend pressure washing that hull with the highest pressure you can find, borrow, or rent. If you can find a "steam gennie" even better. I have actually stripped several cars in my youth with one of those after finding they had "Earl Scheib" paint jobs.

Find the weakness now while you are contemplating spending money/time.

Personally i would never concern myself with an auto quality paint job for a jon boat, but decent prep on a rattle can job is money well spent.

An option is finding a high school or trade school that teaches bodywork/painting and have them do the work.

Rob

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[richg99]

Thanks, Rob. For now, I am going with the minor fix and will watch the boat each time I pull her from the water to watch for any additional issues.

Since I've had this boat, I've messed around, timewise, with her more than I've fished. Fishing is what I am trying to do.

Candidly, other than the aesthetics, whether she gets re-painted or not won't affect what I bought her for. If it were a mechanical/safety issue, I'd be fixing it or taking the boat in to be fixed immediately.

 

[Johnny]

to all readers - - - -

when I say: quick wipe with acetone or lacquer thinner.

I mean QUICK!! - don't dilly dally around.
hot solvents such as acetone, lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, etc are very aggressive
and will start to lift, bubble, tunnel and mess up any underlying finish.
mineral spirits, turpentine, etc will work but takes much longer to dry.
or just skip it altogether and just go with the degreaser soap wash.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all !!

 

[BillPlayfoot]

To me it looks like the hull will have to have all the R/O removed. Orbital sander the original finish and repaint.
I am not a fan of R/O and stripped it all off my boat and resprayed using automotive paint. With that said I'm in the auto restoration trade so it's not a big deal for me to do a strip and repaint.

 

[richg99]

"R/O" ????

Well, the little patch has been finished. I haven't had her out in the full daylight to see how badly I did the job. Looks OK in the darkness of my boat barn, though.

I really like EBug's idea of stripping her using a power washer, if that has to happen. If I have to strip and start over, I'll strip and start over, but I hope not.

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions. If any further work is needed due to this painting problem, I'll post back up here.

Merry Christmas

Rich

 

[Stumpalump]

R/O is short for rustoleum.

 

[skipper123]

The pressure washer will work wonders in the 4000 psi range then a nice sand down with 80 grit and a fresh coat of roll on smooth monstaliner in any color you want and she will be good to go for years. You can roll on monstaliner getting a professional looking job and tough as a nail. Also makes touch up very easy and done by you. You want be dependent on giving some one else your money to do some thing anyone can do at home. In my little opinion paint is a wuss coating always needing to be touched up from scratches dents and dings. Monstaliner or other types of bed coatings is a DIY project and seldom gets scratched enough to even need fixing. Trucks, jeeps, boats tractors all made tougher with these types of coatings.