pressure treated wood

[Zum]

Sorry about your boat.
It is good for people to hear personnal experiences.
Glad you chimed in.

 

[samiam81289]

hey guys i have a 20 ft cobia and i just tore the old floor out and i cant really afford to fiberglass i got pressure treated wood how can i am carpeting over it how can i seal the wood without fiber guys

ty guys a bunch in advance

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

If you haven't cut the pressure treated wood return it.

 

[samiam81289]

its already cut my friend used pressure treated and has had the boat 6 years strong is there anyway i can seal it though i really need suggestions here

 

[juggernot]

Cobia is a fiberglass boat right?

 

[thill]

You can use it, but you need to isolate it from the aluminum.

I used PT ply on my transom, but I isolated it with a layer of glass mat and resin. Made is stiffer, too.

On the decks, it's even easier, depending on how many contact areas there are.

Not a big deal, but isolate it!

 

[chrispy186]

If the treated wood you got is made with Ecolife, you should be ok. It uses non metallic treatment. Here is what they say about the Ecolife treatment.

Fasteners and Aluminum Contact

Ecolife Stabilized Weather-Resistant Wood is no more corrosive to fasteners and metal fittings than untreated wood.
Ecolife can be used in direct contact with aluminum building products, even in constantly wet applications.
Use of fasteners and contact with aluminum products is permissible in compliance with applicable building codes and fastener manufacturer’s recommendations.

This is from https://treatedwood.com/products/ecolife/

Remember, treated wood has been a no no for so long that some people have it drilled in their head to never ever use it, no matter what. Just like someone who is brought up to vote a certain way no matter what, thats how they will vote. To each his own.

 

[kfa4303]

Left to it's own devices, PT lumber will ABSOLUTELY corrode your aluminum hull!!!!!!! Just because some manufacturers use it, doesn't mean it's right. It means they're bad/cheap manufacturers trying to save a buck. There's a reasons "marine grade plywood" doesn't use the same preservatives as normal PT. While you could seal the PT wood and hope for the best, why risk it? A responsible captain would never even take the chance. The "ahhh it'll be ok" approach to boating is the telltale sign of an amateur. Besides, do you really think there's internet conspiracy to get people to not use pt wood :/ ?

It's simple, use 2 layers of non-pt, exterior grade plywood, laminate them together, then pre-drill your holes for the hardware and seal it with either 2-part epoxy or Spar Urethane. Finally, mount it to the hull using stainless steel hardware throughout dipped in a bit of 3M 5200 marine caulk just prior to installation. Voila! you're done. You can get everything you need, with the exception of the epoxy, from Lowes/HD for under $100. Always build you boat to MARINE specs not, cheap-o, inland, landlubber, freshwater, bass boat BS. Your life and the life of your guests may well depend upon it. Nothing on a boat is quick cheap and easy. (B.O.A.T. = Break Out Another Thousand) Do it right, or don't do it at all. Not get that boat ship shape!

 

[T Man]

From what I have read and gotten from the manufacturer, the brand "yellawood" is acceptable to use in direct contact applications. It also doesn't require coated or galvanized fasteners

 

[jigngrub]

samiam81289 » Yesterday, 16:14[/url]"]hey guys i have a 20 ft cobia and i just tore the old floor out and i cant really afford to fiberglass i got pressure treated wood how can i am carpeting over it how can i seal the wood without fiber guys

ty guys a bunch in advance

If you can't afford to rebuild your boat correctly, you probably can't afford to own a boat... but then there are the people that can't afford to rebuild their boat the right way, but when it comes time to fill it up with gas and oil to run it around on the water money is no object.

... and what's a guy with a fiberglass boat doing asking for advice on a tin boat site???

"Glassing" a deck in on a fiberglass boat is an important structural component of a fiberglass boat, a glassed in deck on a fiberglass boat is a diaphragm that holds the boat together like the solar plexus (diaphragm) in the human body. The glassed in deck holds the sides of the hull in place and keeps the relatively weak fiberglass from flexing too much. A glassed in deck on a fiberglass boat also seals off and waterproofs the below deck bilge area preventing water intrusion on the structural stringers and transom which are the backbone of the boat and transom.

If you can't afford to fix/repair your boat correctly you should sell it or haul it to the dump because you probably can't even afford gas and oil to run it.

 

[T Man]

samiam81289 » Yesterday, 16:14[/url]"]hey guys i have a 20 ft cobia and i just tore the old floor out and i cant really afford to fiberglass i got pressure treated wood how can i am carpeting over it how can i seal the wood without fiber guys

ty guys a bunch in advance

If you can't afford to rebuild your boat correctly, you probably can't afford to own a boat... but then there are the people that can't afford to rebuild their boat the right way, but when it comes time to fill it up with gas and oil to run it around on the water money is no object.

... and what's a guy with a fiberglass boat doing asking for advice on a tin boat site???

"Glassing" a deck in on a fiberglass boat is an important structural component of a fiberglass boat, a glassed in deck on a fiberglass boat is a diaphragm that holds the boat together like the solar plexus (diaphragm) in the human body. The glassed in deck holds the sides of the hull in place and keeps the relatively weak fiberglass from flexing too much. A glassed in deck on a fiberglass boat also seals off and waterproofs the below deck bilge area preventing water intrusion on the structural stringers and transom which are the backbone of the boat and transom.

If you can't afford to fix/repair your boat correctly you should sell it or haul it to the dump because you probably can't even afford gas and oil to run it.

If you don't know what you're talking about, just don't post. The deck isn't glassed to the Hull, its part of the cap which is either screwed or riveted to the Hull under the rub rail. It waterproofs nothing, as a properly laid up glass job is waterproofed by the resin used.

 

[jigngrub]

If you don't know what you're talking about, just don't post. The deck isn't glassed to the Hull, its part of the cap which is either screwed or riveted to the Hull under the rub rail. It waterproofs nothing, as a properly laid up glass job is waterproofed by the resin used.

Practice what you preach!

If the deck isn't glassed to the hull or glassed to the cap (tub style), it's still part of the boats structure and the hull will still flex, flop, and flap if everything isn't tied in like it was designed to be... have you got a clue yet?

It waterproofs nothing, as a properly laid up glass job is waterproofed by the resin used.

Typical polyester fiberglass layup resin is worthless with fiberglass cloth or matt, it's weak and brittle and will flake and crumbles to dust without reinforcement of fiberglass... maybe this is another clue for you? :roll:

Just throwing a plywood deck down in a fiberglass boat without glassing it in to the hull or cap (it depends on the design) is a slovenly build that will cause major problems sooner and later. The deck needs to be glassed in for strength and waterproofing.

 

[muskiemike12]

Pretty harsh there jigngrub! So what are you saying if I can't afford to put gas in my truck? :roll:

 

[jigngrub]

muskiemike12 » Today, 15:28[/url]"]Pretty harsh there jigngrub! So what are you saying if I can't afford to put gas in my truck? :roll:

You may want to consider riding a Moped instead. :roll:

Saying you don't have enough money to fix your boat right but you still want to use it is like saying you don't have enough money to put brakes on your truck so you cut holes in the floorboard so you can stop it with your feet and still drive it.

To me the solution is simple, you don't use your boat until you save up enough money to fix it right. Take the money you'd be spending on gas and oil if you were using it and use that money to fix your boat.

 

[muskiemike12]

That's how Fred Flintstone did it!

 

[T Man]

jigngrub » 25 Mar 2014, 13:44[/url]"]

Practice what you preach!

If the deck isn't glassed to the hull or glassed to the cap (tub style), it's still part of the boats structure and the hull will still flex, flop, and flap if everything isn't tied in like it was designed to be... have you got a clue yet?

There is a reason stringers are used to stiffen the hull and stress cracks dont transmit from the hull to the cap. The two are made to give some support to each other, but the cap will do nothing to reduce flex in the side of the hull. Twist? Yes, some, but none to reduce flex.

jigngrub » 25 Mar 2014, 13:44[/url]"]


Typical polyester fiberglass layup resin is worthless with fiberglass cloth or matt, it's weak and brittle and will flake and crumbles to dust without reinforcement of fiberglass... maybe this is another clue for you? :roll:

A) Find a layup schedule on a decent 'glass boat that uses poly resin. Epoxy is used for a reason. It is much stronger than poly but is not as UV resistant, hence the application of a gel coat.

B) Where did I say anything about using ONLY resin? The resin and mat work together. The ideal ratio is 50/50 mat/resin for optimal strength. On a wood cored hull the mat provides 0 waterproofing. The EPOXY resin is what waterproofs the wood, i.e. my reason for saying that a properly laid up glass job waterproofs itself and doesn't need some sort of covering for waterproofing. The mat is there to provide strength for the resin. Dont believe me? Look in a bilge, any bilge. There are only a few manufacturers that take the time to gel coat them, and most of the time they do it to cut down on protein absorption to reduce smells, not waterproof it.

C) Stringers should be glassed to the hull, and when properly laid up, are completely sealed and waterproof on their own. They do not need a deck over them to keep them from rotting. Rotten stringers come from water intrusion due to failed fiberglass layups, either in the form of stress cracks, or god forbid, someone drilling into the stringer and not epoxy coating the hole they drilled.

The deck is NOT NEEDED as a rain cover to keep the rest of the hull from rotting.

jigngrub » 25 Mar 2014, 13:44[/url]"]

Just throwing a plywood deck down in a fiberglass boat without glassing it in to the hull or cap (it depends on the design) is a slovenly build that will cause major problems sooner and later.

This we can agree on.

 

[turkyhorst]

Hello folks...brand new (noob...I love that term) and I too am undertaking a transom board replacement on an late 70's 18' Alumacraft jon boat. So I'm perfectly clear marine grade plywood is the BEST practice correct? Thanks in advance.