Proper Wiring Placement for Switch Panel and Fuse Box (PICS)

[Shoedawg]

I am in the process of hooking up my LEDS to my fuse panel and 6 bank switch. Right now, I am a little bit confused as how to set this up correctly and ensure I have proper protection for my wires. Though they are LEDs and draw little amperage, I would still like to protect my wires to be safe and peace of mind.

Here is my dilemma.

I will use my front NAV LEDs as the example, for this is what I am working on. Both LEDs are ran in PARALLEL. The negative wire from the LEDs is hooked up to the fuse panels negative end. I first tried hooking up the positive wire from the NAV LED to the back of the first switch to see if it was working properly and it was. But, my concern is that it is NOT protected, because the positive is NOT directly running from the fuse panel.

I am trying to get input before I start cutting and wasting material.

How do I go about properly setting this up?

Do I need to spilt the positive end and run them together like the example shown below?



Will this ensure proper protection of the wires?

And do I use this setup for all my loads (that is if it is the proper way)?


Thanks.

Information that may help out:

 

[Shoedawg]

Anybody?

 

[KMixson]

I think you are asking if it OK to run the wire from the switch to the LED's in front directly and have the fuse box "upstream" of the switch panel? You could but you will lose the ability to have a fuse for each circuit on the panel. The fuse panel would have to have a high amp fuse large enough to handle the entire load from all of the items the switch panel is operating. If you are only running one item on the switch panel and you get enough amps to blow the high amp fuse you may also be getting close to frying your wires on that circuit depending on their gauge. Myself, I would run the wires from each switch on the switch panel to a dedicated fuse on the fuse box and then you will be able to use a lower amp fuse there to protect the wires in that circuit. I hope I didn't confuse you with my explanation but I am not sure exactly if that is what you were asking. Someone here may be better able to help you.

 

[Stumpalump]

No. That will not be fused. Ground is ground so it does not matter how or where you get it. Just don't ground to the hull. The positive should go from battery to fuse block then to switch and ending at the light or load. The first pick does not look like it does that. You basically shorted right past the fuse block with that ring terminal and had not fused the switch. You could not fuse the switch if going back would mean a complete rewire but then you would need one wire going into the fuse block and one coming out on a DIFFERENT terminal. I didn't study the rest real close because that first pic stopped me in my track. You need to go thru the fuse and not just touch it like you show.

 

[DaleH]

Some switch panels like that already have BUILT IN circuit breaker protection to the load. Can't tell by your picture of your's ...

Your red souce wire only protects the run powering the panel.

 

[Shoedawg]

Forgive my ignorance on this subject (still learning). Maybe this will clear some things up.



My question ,I guess, is where does the red wire go that is coming from my LEDs??? If I hook it up to the fuse box, then I assume I cant turn off/on my LEDs. If it goes straight to my switch panel, I can turn my LEDS off/on but then its not being protected.


The switch panel does not have its own fuses in the back. This is the switch panel I using below.


Thanks for the input in advance. I really am trying to learn this electric stuff :shock:

 

[Stumpalump]

Red wire to switch. All a switch does is open and close a wire. The switch has two wires. One wire in from your fuse and one wire out to your light. When closed or on it basically connects your fuse to your light thru the wires. If you had a single switch in your hand then it's easy but I think the extra wires going from your switch to ground and 12v are only to provide power to the usb, volt meter, cig lighter and the little light that lights up the switch. Leave all that alone and find two wires or connectors on each switch that go to the load. One wire to fuse and one to your LED light. Lighted switches have a seperate wire or wires that are only used to light the switch not to control anything. Find the two switched wires and go to the fuse with one and your aftermarket Led that you mounted with the other. If it's still not clear then post a pick of the back of your switch or a pic of a wiring diagram that may have come with it.

 

[KMixson]

The red wire going into the switch panel would be the input voltage. The blue wires on the switch panel are the power for lights in the rocker switches. The black wire going into the switch panel is the ground for the lights in the switches, the voltmeter, the 12v accessory plug and the USB ports.

The fuse box you have has (+)power coming from the battery and one terminal for each fuse to connect the load to. It has a (-)negative that splits into 4 bus bars to connect your (-)negative wires to.

You will have to run power from the battery to the fuse box and get your power to the switch from the fuse box. You will have to disconnect the red wires from the back of the rocker switches and run an individual wire to each switch from the (+)positive next to the fuse position you want for that switch. You will have to run a (+)positive wire for each switch. You will then need to run a wire to the voltmeter, the 12v accessory plug and the USB ports. You have a 12 gang fuse box. That would give you enough to run wire to all six switches, voltmeter, 12v accessory plug and USB ports. You could then power lights in the switches from another fuse position or run a small jumper from the (+)positive wire you ran to that switch. You will have a wire harness when done.

It would be a good idea to run a (-)negative wire to the switches individually from the (-)negative side of the fuse box bus bars. If you want to run a single (-)negative wire you will have to use a stout wire or you will risk frying it. Remember when the amps load increases on the wire run it starts heating up and the weakest point will give way which ideally is the fuse. You want to use a fuse that is rated less than your weakest point in the wire run. If you are using one ground wire as small as the (+)positive wires it is going to be handling all of the amps that are running through all of the (+)positive wires at that time.

As for the positive wire on the LED it would plug into the switch terminal you have labeled as positive load in your first post.

 

[Shoedawg]

Thanks for the great input everyone. I will take your suggestions and try them out when I get home (Im in Salt Lake this weekend for a medial class). As soon as I get something set up and ran I will post back to this thread for an update or more questions. Appreciate all the sound advise and help. =D>

 

[Shoedawg]

Just wanted to give you guys an update. Your advise help exceedingly!! Everything is working find at the switch and all lights are coming on. Just need to figure out fuse size and I am good. Once all finished and tidy up I will post some pics. Thanks for the help.

 

[FEN913]

Just installed my lights with the same pannel

 

[renn90]

Just wanted to give you guys an update. Your advise help exceedingly!! Everything is working find at the switch and all lights are coming on. Just need to figure out fuse size and I am good. Once all finished and tidy up I will post some pics. Thanks for the help.

OHM's Law
Amps = Watts / Volts

Add your total wattage of all your lights (or other devices) on the circuit, and divide by the volts you are running (most use a 12 volt battery circuit, or 2 12volt batteries running in series for 24 Volts). Best to get a fuse as close to your Amp calculation without going under.

 

[DaleH]

Use 12.6 for volts in a DC circuit, in that amperage calculation.