Relocate Batteries to the bow...need help

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RivRunR

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I'm thinking that moving my 2 batteries up front would help with weight distribution, since 2 batteries + 6 gal tank + outboard + my big butt = a stern low to the water.

Here's how I'm wired up now:

Cranking Battery (31): Suzuki 60hp 4-stroke direct to battery, plus a lead to a fuse panel for bilge, livewell, lights, fishfinder.
Trolling Battery (27): MK Edge 40 bow mount, run thru an MK 60A circuit breaker.
Both batteries are connected to a 2-bank on-board charger, also in the back.

So, I want to move the 2 batteries and the on-board charger up front, but have a couple of questions:

1. Do I need to add a circuit breaker to the cranking battery in the bow since it will be a longer run (15') to the outboard / fuse panel in the back? If so, what amp?

2. When I move the TM battery up front, I will just run new wiring between the TM plug and the TM battery. IF the old TM wires that already run to the back are the same gauge as the leads on the outboard, can I use those as the "new" wiring between cranking battery up front and the outboard + fuse panel in the rear, or does the increased length make that unsafe? This would keep me from having to run new wire and conduit, since it already runs to the back.

Thanks in advance!
 
1. I called an evinrude dealer about needing to add a circuit breaker between the main motor heavy Positive wire and the battery and he told me not too ever do that. He said it is already fused under the cowel on the motor.

2. Quote: "IF the old TM wires that already run to the back are the same gauge as the leads on the outboard, can I use those as the "new" wiring"
I'd believe it would be fine to reuse the wire and make it a straight run from the cranking battery to the big motor. But I'd call around to make sure the added 15' of cranking wire is safe to do it that way.for 15' of wire, I'd be on the phone with an electrician :D
 
As far as damaging components, the extra circuit breaker is not needed. The only reason to put the circuit breaker there would be to eliminate the hazard of fire if something shorted the positive and negative together. That being said, if you are careful in routing the wires, I really can't see putting one there. I've made plenty of runs like that, and I'll say that I did not use a breaker, and can't see myself doing so in the future, either.

The only issue with using the old trolling motor wires is that they may not be large enough. I would guess that they are 6AWG, and depending on what the load is, the outboard/fuse panel may very well need 4 or 2 AWG. Even if the outboard only has 6 gauge, the extra length of the long run will need a larger size, as the resistance will be greatly increased over that run.
 

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