Nickk
Well-known member
equal in diameter so even with that much break strength it will be thin enough to cast well.
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SMDave
Well-known member
It is the same diameter of 6lb mono, not strength. Strength-wise, I am sure it can out-strength 20lb. mono any day. Yes that is a frog, toads are also good to fish in weeds (toads refer to soft plastic frog-resembling lures). A Zoom Horny Toad is an example of a toad, and is my favorite toad ever. As for the weed problem, fill up the spool with mono first to prevent slipping, and also to make use of that expensive braid better (for example, by filling a spool up with mono first, you can spool even 6 reels with one 330 yd. spool of braid as opposed to 1 or 2 reels without "backing.")
I use 30lb. Power Pro, and this thing is indestructible. However, do not fish spinnerbaits, or any lures with treble hooks with braid as the braid will not stretch enough to give you a good hookset, and the hook will rip right out of the bass' mouth. This also means you do not have to "swing for the fences" with hooksets most of the time, a snap of the wrist will usually do. You may need a stronger hookset for different presentations, i.e. deep water fishing, heavy cover fishing, etc.
I would suggest getting some 20lb. braid and a heavier-than usual sinker, and flippin a jig or a soft plastic worm, craw, senko, whatever into any holes or breaks in the surface weeds you can find. Generally, the weeds will not be as dense as the top where it sticks out of the water. Imagine it like a forest, you have the dense top-canopy, but the lower you get, it is just trunks (in this case, the stalks of the weeds and such). If you do use a soft plastic, always make sure the hook point is buried slightly into the body of the soft plastic, and for jigs, always use a weedless jig.
Now another approach is night fishing. Bass usually use the weeds as a point for ambushing prey such as bluegills, shad, crawdads, or any forage they can find. Weeds are so good at being an ambush point for bass because the bass are concealed by the dark shadow the top canopy of the weeds cast down, and also the sides of the bass are colored to match that of the weeds the bass have been living in. In addition, the shade produced by the weeds serves another purpose, to cool down, like we use shade. In the night, however, bass don't need the shade for ambushing nor for cooling purposes, as the dark of the night will conceal them, and the night will be naturally cooler than the day time. Also, they can see prey above them much easier as the forage will be silhouetted by the moon. This is why many anglers like black or dark colored baits in the night. Clear is also a good choice. Fish the lures near the surface, as the bass can only look up and straight, but not downwards. Clear will refract the light, so it will be apparent there is a lure there (because "clear" baits are actually translucent and not transparent). Also, shad have clear bellies so it is pretty natural to see the moonlight being refracted for the bass. So if you are fishing night, fish the non-weeded areas, and fish the upper-water column rather than deep. Topwater fishing at night is a blast, and rewarding! Try a black buzzbait, or a clearish rapala or any other shallow-diving jerkbait. Try fishing something with a rattle or something that makes noise for a greater chance that a bass will find the lure. Lures that displace massive amounts of water are effective as well, such as spinnerbaits with Colorado blades. Again, fish the darker colors.
I use 30lb. Power Pro, and this thing is indestructible. However, do not fish spinnerbaits, or any lures with treble hooks with braid as the braid will not stretch enough to give you a good hookset, and the hook will rip right out of the bass' mouth. This also means you do not have to "swing for the fences" with hooksets most of the time, a snap of the wrist will usually do. You may need a stronger hookset for different presentations, i.e. deep water fishing, heavy cover fishing, etc.
I would suggest getting some 20lb. braid and a heavier-than usual sinker, and flippin a jig or a soft plastic worm, craw, senko, whatever into any holes or breaks in the surface weeds you can find. Generally, the weeds will not be as dense as the top where it sticks out of the water. Imagine it like a forest, you have the dense top-canopy, but the lower you get, it is just trunks (in this case, the stalks of the weeds and such). If you do use a soft plastic, always make sure the hook point is buried slightly into the body of the soft plastic, and for jigs, always use a weedless jig.
Now another approach is night fishing. Bass usually use the weeds as a point for ambushing prey such as bluegills, shad, crawdads, or any forage they can find. Weeds are so good at being an ambush point for bass because the bass are concealed by the dark shadow the top canopy of the weeds cast down, and also the sides of the bass are colored to match that of the weeds the bass have been living in. In addition, the shade produced by the weeds serves another purpose, to cool down, like we use shade. In the night, however, bass don't need the shade for ambushing nor for cooling purposes, as the dark of the night will conceal them, and the night will be naturally cooler than the day time. Also, they can see prey above them much easier as the forage will be silhouetted by the moon. This is why many anglers like black or dark colored baits in the night. Clear is also a good choice. Fish the lures near the surface, as the bass can only look up and straight, but not downwards. Clear will refract the light, so it will be apparent there is a lure there (because "clear" baits are actually translucent and not transparent). Also, shad have clear bellies so it is pretty natural to see the moonlight being refracted for the bass. So if you are fishing night, fish the non-weeded areas, and fish the upper-water column rather than deep. Topwater fishing at night is a blast, and rewarding! Try a black buzzbait, or a clearish rapala or any other shallow-diving jerkbait. Try fishing something with a rattle or something that makes noise for a greater chance that a bass will find the lure. Lures that displace massive amounts of water are effective as well, such as spinnerbaits with Colorado blades. Again, fish the darker colors.
Cubman
Well-known member
Thanks for the replies everyone. I will try to find a couple different frogs, and pick up some braid. Can anyone reccomend a knot to connect the filler line and the braid? Also, what is the difference between a round baitcaster and a regular baitcaster?
little anth
Well-known member
i am not the one to ask about the knots but the reels i can handle those.Low Profiles are your best bet! Much more comfortable.It's all about what makes YOU happy and what YOU can afford. i as do most like low pro reels because of comfort but its all what you think and not me its not my wallet and i wont have to use the reel but most people like the low pro better. as for the knot i use the double uni knot.
The two knots developed by Dave Justice are ideal for joining a monofilament leader to super-braid line. Additionally, both connections are extremely strong, which can be important when it comes time to horse a snook (top) or striper (bottom) from mangroves, rocks or pilings.
David Justice is always looking for ways to make his terminal gear more bulletproof. A snook guru who has accounted for an impressive number of 30-pound-class trophies, plus a pair of monsters over 40 pounds, Justice places incredible strain on his tackle when he muscles these powerful fish away from docks, pilings and bridges. This was pretty much the same strategy he used to take trophy striped bass in the Tennessee reservoirs back when he was a guide.
Given the power of a big snook or striper, and the strain that a nearly locked-down drag places on tackle, Justice quickly learned which knots were worth their salt. So, when he switched to super-braid line a few years back, he experimented with different ways of joining braid to a monofilament or fluorocarbon leader.
Although Justice now lives in North Carolina and serves as the product manager for Stren Lines, he still makes several snook trips each year to South Florida. He remains as meticulous as ever when it comes to knots, and has since developed two new ones: the Stren knot and the J-knot. Both were developed for joining heavier mono or fluorocarbon leader to braided line, mono to mono, or mono to fluorocarbon. Since both knots retain nearly 100 percent of the lightest line’s rated breaking strength, they may in some cases eliminate the need for tying a Bimini twist or spider hitch in the end of the main line when using spinning or baitcasting tackle.
“I designed these knots for strength, so there would be no weak spots in the line after tying them,” says Justice. “I have worked on them for quite some time, and have checked them out on a line-testing machine and in the field on snook, stripers and tarpon. They really do the job. At a recent sales meeting, I used the Stren knot and the J-knot to join 12-pound-test Original Stren monofilament to 50-pound fluorocarbon. I tied three connections with the Stren knot and three connections with the J-knot. Every one of the six individual lines broke well above the knot. The knot strengths are incredibly high.”
Justice claims that both knots are equally strong, and that it’s a matter of personal preference as to which one to use. Even though both knots are excellent for joining mono to mono and mono to fluorocarbon, Justice swears by them for braided line. In fact, both knots were developed with braid in mind, since Stren will soon introduce its own braided line (to be dubbed “Super Braid”).
“Knot strength has always been a big problem with braided line,” says Justice. “You can always find a knot that will retain 100 percent of its strength with mono, but not with braid — until these two knots were developed. And when tied properly, they also eliminate the problem of slippage.”
STREN KNOT
According to Dave Justice, the Stren knot is considerably stronger than the traditional uni-to-uni connection used for joining thin-diameter braid to varying sizes of mono or fluorocarbon, providing the uni portion of the knot is tied in the mono or fluorocarbon. When making mono-to-mono connections, the uni portion of the knot must be tied to the heavier line.
Step One Overlap approximately 12 inches of the two lines. Take the tag end of the leader (A) and form a circle.
Step Two Wrap the leader two to six times around both the main line and leader, passing inside the loop on each wrap. This forms a uni knot. (Note: For four- through 20-pound mono, take six wraps. For 25- through 40-pound mono, take four to five wraps. For 50- through 80-pound mono, take three to four wraps. For 100-pound mono and above, take two to three wraps. If using a leader above 200-pound test, only one wrap is necessary.)
Step Three Cinch down the knot by pulling on both ends of the leader.
Step Four Form an improved clinch knot in the main line by wrapping it seven to 11 times around the leader (braids require ten to 12 turns), then passing the tag end through the opening at the base of the uni knot and back through the large loop.
Step Five Tighten the wraps of line while holding the tag end and standing section, making sure the wraps form a tight spiral with no overlaps. Slide them against the uni knot, jamming them together. Trim the excess tags.
Step Six The finished Stren knot.
J-KNOT
According to Dave Justice, the J-knot is similar in its initial stage to the surgeon’s knot, but progresses to an alternating weave on each side of the overhand knot. It is superior to the surgeon’s knot because the weaves will not cut into the main line. It’s a strong connection for joining mono or fluorocarbon leader to braided line, as well as for connecting mono to mono or mono to fluorocarbon.
Step One Lay the line and leader alongside each other, overlapping them by approximately 12 inches.
Step Two Treating the two as a single line, form an overhand knot and pass the entire leader through the loop you’ve just created.
Step Three Leaving the loop of the overhand knot open, pass the tag end of the main line and the whole leader back through the loop, around the bottom of the loop, up through the loop, around the top, and finally out through the loop.
Step Four For joining a mono leader to super-braid, make another pass around the bottom of the loop and out through the loop.
Step Five Finish the knot by pulling firmly on all ends, which will tighten the connection and make it more compact. Trim ends closely.
https://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/showthread.php?t=519204
CUT AND PASTE :roll: ](*,)
The two knots developed by Dave Justice are ideal for joining a monofilament leader to super-braid line. Additionally, both connections are extremely strong, which can be important when it comes time to horse a snook (top) or striper (bottom) from mangroves, rocks or pilings.
David Justice is always looking for ways to make his terminal gear more bulletproof. A snook guru who has accounted for an impressive number of 30-pound-class trophies, plus a pair of monsters over 40 pounds, Justice places incredible strain on his tackle when he muscles these powerful fish away from docks, pilings and bridges. This was pretty much the same strategy he used to take trophy striped bass in the Tennessee reservoirs back when he was a guide.
Given the power of a big snook or striper, and the strain that a nearly locked-down drag places on tackle, Justice quickly learned which knots were worth their salt. So, when he switched to super-braid line a few years back, he experimented with different ways of joining braid to a monofilament or fluorocarbon leader.
Although Justice now lives in North Carolina and serves as the product manager for Stren Lines, he still makes several snook trips each year to South Florida. He remains as meticulous as ever when it comes to knots, and has since developed two new ones: the Stren knot and the J-knot. Both were developed for joining heavier mono or fluorocarbon leader to braided line, mono to mono, or mono to fluorocarbon. Since both knots retain nearly 100 percent of the lightest line’s rated breaking strength, they may in some cases eliminate the need for tying a Bimini twist or spider hitch in the end of the main line when using spinning or baitcasting tackle.
“I designed these knots for strength, so there would be no weak spots in the line after tying them,” says Justice. “I have worked on them for quite some time, and have checked them out on a line-testing machine and in the field on snook, stripers and tarpon. They really do the job. At a recent sales meeting, I used the Stren knot and the J-knot to join 12-pound-test Original Stren monofilament to 50-pound fluorocarbon. I tied three connections with the Stren knot and three connections with the J-knot. Every one of the six individual lines broke well above the knot. The knot strengths are incredibly high.”
Justice claims that both knots are equally strong, and that it’s a matter of personal preference as to which one to use. Even though both knots are excellent for joining mono to mono and mono to fluorocarbon, Justice swears by them for braided line. In fact, both knots were developed with braid in mind, since Stren will soon introduce its own braided line (to be dubbed “Super Braid”).
“Knot strength has always been a big problem with braided line,” says Justice. “You can always find a knot that will retain 100 percent of its strength with mono, but not with braid — until these two knots were developed. And when tied properly, they also eliminate the problem of slippage.”
STREN KNOT
According to Dave Justice, the Stren knot is considerably stronger than the traditional uni-to-uni connection used for joining thin-diameter braid to varying sizes of mono or fluorocarbon, providing the uni portion of the knot is tied in the mono or fluorocarbon. When making mono-to-mono connections, the uni portion of the knot must be tied to the heavier line.
Step One Overlap approximately 12 inches of the two lines. Take the tag end of the leader (A) and form a circle.
Step Two Wrap the leader two to six times around both the main line and leader, passing inside the loop on each wrap. This forms a uni knot. (Note: For four- through 20-pound mono, take six wraps. For 25- through 40-pound mono, take four to five wraps. For 50- through 80-pound mono, take three to four wraps. For 100-pound mono and above, take two to three wraps. If using a leader above 200-pound test, only one wrap is necessary.)
Step Three Cinch down the knot by pulling on both ends of the leader.
Step Four Form an improved clinch knot in the main line by wrapping it seven to 11 times around the leader (braids require ten to 12 turns), then passing the tag end through the opening at the base of the uni knot and back through the large loop.
Step Five Tighten the wraps of line while holding the tag end and standing section, making sure the wraps form a tight spiral with no overlaps. Slide them against the uni knot, jamming them together. Trim the excess tags.
Step Six The finished Stren knot.
J-KNOT
According to Dave Justice, the J-knot is similar in its initial stage to the surgeon’s knot, but progresses to an alternating weave on each side of the overhand knot. It is superior to the surgeon’s knot because the weaves will not cut into the main line. It’s a strong connection for joining mono or fluorocarbon leader to braided line, as well as for connecting mono to mono or mono to fluorocarbon.
Step One Lay the line and leader alongside each other, overlapping them by approximately 12 inches.
Step Two Treating the two as a single line, form an overhand knot and pass the entire leader through the loop you’ve just created.
Step Three Leaving the loop of the overhand knot open, pass the tag end of the main line and the whole leader back through the loop, around the bottom of the loop, up through the loop, around the top, and finally out through the loop.
Step Four For joining a mono leader to super-braid, make another pass around the bottom of the loop and out through the loop.
Step Five Finish the knot by pulling firmly on all ends, which will tighten the connection and make it more compact. Trim ends closely.
https://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/showthread.php?t=519204
CUT AND PASTE :roll: ](*,)
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