Restoring transom of aluminum skiff Valco Bayrunner BR-15

[CaptainStottle]

I've got a Bayrunner BR-15 aluminum skiff that needs the transom replaced. It is not an easy task though as their are splashwalls placed over the transom that are riveted and welded in place Does anyone have any ideas or has done similar jobs have any advice or input? I do not know how to weld aluminum besides some brazing I've done with fluxless rods I'm not sure if that will work. Thank you! Here are the pictures https://imgur.com/a/7BInZE7

 

[sonny.barile]

That looks like it was designed for salt water………nice lines.

 

[LDUBS]

That is a nice boat -- The old Bayrunners are popular around here for Bay and Delta.

I've not done what you are asking about so can't really offer any advice based on actual experience. Judging from the nyloc nuts I see on that center transom brace, I would say this has been done before, or at least those original fasteners have been replaced.

If you can remove the two corner boxes the old transom wood could be dropped straight down. Problem is that center brace would be in the way and it is welded to the bottom. Perhaps cut thru the welds holding the upright part of that brace, replace the wood, then have it welded back? If that is feasible you wouldn't have to remove the top channel or corner caps. Just seat-of-the-pants on my part through.

 

[gogittum]

Looks like those side boxes are welded solid to the bottom of the hull....?? Strange they would do that....?? That could make an awful job of it. If mine, I think my 1st step would be to get that plywood and other stuff out of the way, then take it to a welding shop and have them look at it and figure out practicality of various treatments.

Then LDubs idea of dropping the old wood down would likely work well.

I've always liked the Bayrunner and Klamath style boats. Rugged and seaworthy.

 

[Tin Man]

Another option would be to remove and replace wood from the top. There are many ways to skin a cat....easier to develop a course of action when viewing in person.

Unless I am missing something, you should be able to:

Remove top corner braces. They appear to be riveted and it looks like you removed the port side.
Remove rear corner supports (triangular-shaped vertical ones)....appear to be both welded and riveted.
Remove top transom cap.
You may have to do some cutting if there are any welds that prevent removal and access to wood.

A good TIG welder should be able to provide guidance on welding/fabrication both on removal and installation. He/she can tell you where to cut so that the welding, when put back together, can be done appropriately.

You can get an estimate and then tackle the portions you feel comfortable with and return to welder for welding portion (if you do not weld).

NOTE: Use quality marine grade plywood and coat entire transom piece with high quality epoxy. Any holes that are drilled, use epoxy to coat the inside of the hole prior to bolting. Avoid transom holes for mounting accessories such as transducers; instead epoxy (using Marine-Tex RM321K FlexSet) starboard material and screw to the starboard. Transom should last many, many years.

Hope this helps.

 

[DaleH]

www.raka.com for epoxy kits

West Systems G-Flex 650 if a flexible epoxy is required

Or … if you can remove all the old wood and have a hollow space or damned area between the inner and outer skin, consider a ‘pourable transom’ like that from CarbonCore, see the post in my signature of the 16’ StarCraft.