If I use a decent primer right after gluvit is fully cured, is the paint gonna peel off the gluvit painted areas? The sanding task seems undoable. How can you sand around hundreds of gluvit-coated flat-top rivets before priming and painting? You'd never get it all scuffed. I mean, I'm patient, but nobodys that patient! Has anyone had paint peeling issues on unsanded gluvit treated areas with a good oil-based primer and paint? I'm guessing I'll be using the self-etching primer that is going on the rest of the aluminum. I really don't want to kill myself trying to sand all this again if priming and painting will be enough. Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!
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Sand Gluvit before painting?
- Thread starter Rob4
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A couple of pics. It's actually a 1981 Lowe Superior 14 foot. Two very slow leaks. One inside each of the two rear "ballasts", by the motor. Both full of foam. Open cell foam...apparently sprayed in. Cut a small access panel in each and dug out the bottom few inches. It was holding water like a sponge. If I knew the guy who designed this, I would punch him in the nose. Got it cleaned up and was able to Gluvit the seams and rivets. Should be all good now. Pics are before starting then after stripping the floor. 3 coats of paint. No Gulvit at this point. Today, I spot sanded anything I missed, cleaned everything with acetone, and applied the Gluvit where needed.
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Sanded the Gluvit today. A scotchbrite pad for prepping metal dulled the Gluvit down nicely. Vacuumed everything Then acetone, to clean up, followed by alcohol, because it's hard to get all the metal dust etc., up. Finally primed what needed it with self-etching primer (two different kinds cause I couldn't find enough of one at 3 different stores). Finally ready for paint tomorrow!
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That's a big step in the process. Good job!
thill
Well-known member
I was going to say use a thick or tripled Scotchbrite pad, but you already figured it out.
Good job!
Good job!
Yes, epoxies give off an 'amine blush' when curing and that top layer needs a light sanding to ensure whatever else is applied 'sticks'.
But with that said, they do make more expen$ive blush-free epoxies, usually those ultra-clear ones to make bar tops out of raw woods, for example.
You done good ...
But with that said, they do make more expen$ive blush-free epoxies, usually those ultra-clear ones to make bar tops out of raw woods, for example.
You done good ...
First coat applied. Used Parker "Desert Sand" duck boat paint. Used foam roller and brush, which worked well. Lots of laying on your back to paint under seats and accidentally knocking the occasional dot of styrofoam off the underside of the seats into the paint. Not too bad with a shorty brush tho. Very thick paint. Container says to thin about 15% w/mineral spirits for two coats. Covered well. Second coat will come after I paint the outside of boat; maybe tomorrow. Might spray second coat inside with my Earlex HVLP.
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