PSG-1
Well-known member
Probably best to go with a color that closely matches the color of the mud/sand where you will primarily operate the boat, so any dirt in the boat won't be as noticeable.
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SeaArk SuperJon 1872MV Tunnel Remodel (All Pics on Pg1)
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lowblazah
Well-known member
Here are the larger samples i got today...
The paint on the boat is a khaki tan. Pic makes it look grey alomst. Not sure if the silt/dirt would show up worse on the darker one or not...now I'm really at an impass...might have to let the wife choose.
The paint on the boat is a khaki tan. Pic makes it look grey alomst. Not sure if the silt/dirt would show up worse on the darker one or not...now I'm really at an impass...might have to let the wife choose.
vahunter
Well-known member
I like the one on the right 
ChitownBasser
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Sorry. Quick question. Is it better to prime/paint outside first? Or is it a preference thing?
lowblazah
Well-known member
ChitownBasser said:
I don't think it matters...I had this boat flipped over for some hull repair so I took the opportunity to paint it while I had it bottom side up. My boat takes at least 8 guys to comfortably flip it due to its size.
lowblazah
Well-known member
vahunter said:I like the one on the right
As does the wife. Camo it is.
lowblazah
Well-known member
Jack Plate mounted and Tethering straps added for rear lids
Bilge lines plumbed and fastened.
Access Hatches installed.
Slowly but surely we are making progress.
Bilge lines plumbed and fastened.
Access Hatches installed.
Slowly but surely we are making progress.
fool4fish1226
Well-known member
Low that really starting to take shape, some great craftsmanship
vahunter
Well-known member
Sweet!
PSG-1
Well-known member
That's looking really good. Those hatch covers turned out nice.
I'm looking at the last pic, remembering my little 14 foot Dura Craft, when I put a floor in it. And it reminds me of the excellent design I had for drainage and ease of cleaning the deck. Since you said that the area you operate in has a lot of mud, I was thinking of the issue of cleaning the boat.
Not sure what you have planned for deck drainage, but...here's an idea, and this is how I did it with my 14' Duracraft:
the rear bench seat on my boat did not go all the way to the hull. There was a gap of about 2" under that seat.
Also, between the front edge of the bench, there was roughly a 2" space before the next rib, where my inner hull began.
So, I used a piece of aluminum angle as wide as that gap, and cut to the width of the hull.... with 3 notches cut on the bottom side, and covered with stainless mesh. This piece of angle was left removable, so it could be lifted out like a tray.
With that setup, this was the easiest boat in the world to keep clean, regardless what I was doing, such as oystering, crabbing, catching bait, etc. All I had to do was hose the deck down, and any debris was captured in the 'tray' that fit between that rear bench seat and the rib. It kept all that trash out of the bilge, and out of the bilge pump, as well.
Again, I'm not sure exactly how the hull and bench seats are configured in your boat, but a design like I mentioned might be worth considering.
I'm looking at the last pic, remembering my little 14 foot Dura Craft, when I put a floor in it. And it reminds me of the excellent design I had for drainage and ease of cleaning the deck. Since you said that the area you operate in has a lot of mud, I was thinking of the issue of cleaning the boat.
Not sure what you have planned for deck drainage, but...here's an idea, and this is how I did it with my 14' Duracraft:
the rear bench seat on my boat did not go all the way to the hull. There was a gap of about 2" under that seat.
Also, between the front edge of the bench, there was roughly a 2" space before the next rib, where my inner hull began.
So, I used a piece of aluminum angle as wide as that gap, and cut to the width of the hull.... with 3 notches cut on the bottom side, and covered with stainless mesh. This piece of angle was left removable, so it could be lifted out like a tray.
With that setup, this was the easiest boat in the world to keep clean, regardless what I was doing, such as oystering, crabbing, catching bait, etc. All I had to do was hose the deck down, and any debris was captured in the 'tray' that fit between that rear bench seat and the rib. It kept all that trash out of the bilge, and out of the bilge pump, as well.
Again, I'm not sure exactly how the hull and bench seats are configured in your boat, but a design like I mentioned might be worth considering.
lowblazah
Well-known member
PSG-1 said:
Dan,
You got a picture of that? i do like that idea.
PSG-1
Well-known member
Unfortunately, I don't have a picture. I wish I did have a picture of that design, it would be much easier than trying to explain. I'll try to draw it out and scan it.
I'm a crappy artist, but hopefully, this gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.
The small gap in front of the rear bench seat is where the angle tray fits. If I remember correctly, I used 2 inch aluminum angle for the tray on my boat. Of course, for a wider gap, you could use a piece of 1/8" plate, and a press brake to bend it to a 90 degree angle.
The vertical leg of the angle fits flush up against the vertical surface of the bench seat, and the flat leg acts as the drain tray, with the slots cut into it, with mesh or perforated metal secured over each slot. The forward edge of the flat side of the angle will wedge tightly against the vertical surface of the rib directly in front of the bench seat. With it placed in there like this, it catches all the debris before it reaches the motor well/bilge area, keeping it much cleaner, keeping junk from accumulating under the bench seat.
You cut the angle to the width of the inside of the gunwale, long enough that it doesn't slip all the way down to the bottom, and so it's just below flush with the level of the inner hull/floor. Since the gunwale tapers inward as it reaches the floor of a boat, this is what keeps it from slipping around, that and being wedged between the bench seat and the rib just in front of it.
Again, I wish I had some actual pictures, but my chicken-scratch drawing should give you an idea of what I'm talking about.
I'm a crappy artist, but hopefully, this gives you an idea of what I'm talking about.
The small gap in front of the rear bench seat is where the angle tray fits. If I remember correctly, I used 2 inch aluminum angle for the tray on my boat. Of course, for a wider gap, you could use a piece of 1/8" plate, and a press brake to bend it to a 90 degree angle.
The vertical leg of the angle fits flush up against the vertical surface of the bench seat, and the flat leg acts as the drain tray, with the slots cut into it, with mesh or perforated metal secured over each slot. The forward edge of the flat side of the angle will wedge tightly against the vertical surface of the rib directly in front of the bench seat. With it placed in there like this, it catches all the debris before it reaches the motor well/bilge area, keeping it much cleaner, keeping junk from accumulating under the bench seat.
You cut the angle to the width of the inside of the gunwale, long enough that it doesn't slip all the way down to the bottom, and so it's just below flush with the level of the inner hull/floor. Since the gunwale tapers inward as it reaches the floor of a boat, this is what keeps it from slipping around, that and being wedged between the bench seat and the rib just in front of it.
Again, I wish I had some actual pictures, but my chicken-scratch drawing should give you an idea of what I'm talking about.
lowblazah
Well-known member
I like the idea...I just dont see how to implement that into my system...I'm going to try and do something like that though...if nothing else...just to make sure all the water sprayed to the back drains properly...whether I have a trap or not...we'll see.
Anyway...on to more pics...
Livewell in mocked up and drilled. Once Vinyl is in, I'll install.
Control cables ran out to the rear, cut notches for my bilge lines....
Had to cut a wedge to make my console sit up nice and straight...the floor has a nice angle here so I had to accomodate for that
Here I'm playing around at the end of the night trying to get a feel for how everything will drive...gotta say...I like it alot so far!
Anyway...on to more pics...
Livewell in mocked up and drilled. Once Vinyl is in, I'll install.
Control cables ran out to the rear, cut notches for my bilge lines....
Had to cut a wedge to make my console sit up nice and straight...the floor has a nice angle here so I had to accomodate for that
Here I'm playing around at the end of the night trying to get a feel for how everything will drive...gotta say...I like it alot so far!
fool4fish1226
Well-known member
Lovin it =D>
bigwave
Well-known member
That boat is looking real nice. I have one question. Why do you guy's put the center console forward? To me it would seem more stable to drive the boat with the console centered. Don't take this the wrong way..I was just curious if there was a reason to have the console forward. Your build is awesome.
lowblazah
Well-known member
bigwave said:
I've been in several riverpro's and other CenterConsle boats...centering the console in the middle or in the back always seems to place a large obstacle in the way when you get 2 or more guys in it. Plus I drive at night...A LOT. So putting the console up front gives me more visual of whats coming my way along with ensuring I dont have to look over anyone that may be sitting on the front deck. Obviously your way is the more popular choice as most manufacturers charge extra to have the console moved forward and all their OEM options have the console where you suggested.
PSG-1
Well-known member
Putting the console forward also puts the weight forward, evening out the load. This means you can idle in shallower water without hitting bottom, and it also means when you're planed off, you can run a little shallower, because you can trim the motor up a little more, without porpoising, like it would normally tend to do with the weight toward the rear. Also, having the weight forward makes the boat turn tighter at slower speeds, as it shifts the pivot point forward.
On my jetboat, I originally had my console about a foot and a half farther toward the bow than where it is currently positioned. I moved it back to give a little more deck space in front of the console, between the console and the elevated part of the front deck. I noticed when I had the console further up, the stern didn't tend to squat as low when idling in shallow water.
On my jetboat, I originally had my console about a foot and a half farther toward the bow than where it is currently positioned. I moved it back to give a little more deck space in front of the console, between the console and the elevated part of the front deck. I noticed when I had the console further up, the stern didn't tend to squat as low when idling in shallow water.
Ride_Klein
Well-known member
Looking great. That console is going to be nice when it is way past dark and you're hustling to make it home in time to get cleaned up and to the office.
bigwave
Well-known member
Well that makes sense to me now....low your mod is freaking awesome....yours too PSG-1......I really want a jet boat now..... :roll: For my wish list.....tig/mig welder and all the stuff you guys have.....hell I think a business could be had with all the old tins here in florida......you never see mods like the ones on this site around here.......keep up the good work guys......bigwave out.
