Shoot&Fish's SeaArk 2072 (pics now showing)

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

shootandfish1

Active member
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
As promised, I've posted some pics of my new SeaArk 2072 w/ a Yamaha 115.

Folks, please bear with me. This is my first attempt posting pics on the web. imgur was recommended over photobucket. Right now my brain is fried, I'm amazed that I got this far.

Fred



2TeJoGZl.jpg


uSLSg0Dl.jpg

Qc8rF1Gl.jpg

WUNJdDEl.jpg

nAO2SjZl.jpg

9BrDFQJl.jpg


Figured it out!!!!!!!!!!!!!posting pics using imgur turned out to be super simple
 
VERY nice boat. I'd love to have an 2072 or 1872 to run around Lake Norman in. Possibilities are endless with that hull!
 
thanks for the kind comments.

I didn't provide much narrative with my thread start as posting pics had left me 'brain-drained'. This was my first successful pics on the internet.

So, Long story stort. I'm retired and looking forward to spending time fishing, hunting, and camping. My home is Central Ky, lots of good waters, but my major plan is to get set up to travel for extended stays in other 'outdoorsey' places.

My fishing tastes are simple, I like catching bluegills and 'eating-size' catfish. I'm not a hard-core bass guy, but will cast some 'Jelly' worms or spinner baits if I'm in largemouth waters. Casting the larger creeks, smaller rivers for smallmouth is something I hope to re-discover. Do they still sell 'Rooster-tails?

Back to the my Sea Ark 2072. I'm a bigger guy and wanted a safe, stable boat. I went back and forth between choosing a 'superjon' or a pontoon. I chose the Sea Ark based on being able to handle by myself and having acccess to more ramps.

The only options I got was a side console and the factory installed diamond plate floor. I've been looking at aluminum toolboxes for extra seats and storage. I want at least one 7.5-8' box for rods and guns.

On the 'to-do' list as soon as the weather breaks is to get my boat ID numbers & letters applied (Any favorite means of doing this? Has to be 3 in high, block letters,).

The rear bench is a little low. I'm going to do a temporary, quick raise using 1/2 in ply and 2x4's on-edge until I figure out what is going to work best.

Launching and loading by myself is going to require some fore-thought and modifications. I would appreciate any and all ideas.

So far, I trying to come up with a trailer mounted ladder at the bow for getting in/out for launching/loading. I need something strong, top step even with the bow, and extends up, vertically for a secure hand-hold (I've got high blood pressure and one gets 'woosey' doing these sort of things).

Since you folks are the authority on jon boats, I'm going to be asking for advice and help as I get some boating time under my belt. One of the beauties of a plain-jane tin is the ease of making mods to suit one's taste and needs.

Thanks in advance,

Fred
 
Quick ?

Clearly, riding in pedistal-type casting seat mounted on the bow is unsafe (and illegal).

But what about sitting on the bow, facing backwards, feet on the threadplate floor? Don't want to be unsafe, just trying to figure out where I want to place my toolbox/seats.
 
Those big boats put the Ark in SeaArk! Looks like a smallish front deck for such a big jon, I don't know how much modification you want to do to your boat, but I added on to my front deck to create storage and more front deck space somewhat easily/cheaply and extremely sturdy.I would have framed it w aluminum but $$ was tight and I had most of the materials I used already.DSCN0274.JPGDSCN0275.JPGDSCN0276.JPGDSCN0277.JPG

I think I would forgo the hatch and just add on to the front deck w an opening underneath and a short lip on the floor to keep stuff underneath the space and allow stuff to be stuffed in/pulled out from the cockpit If it was my boat. The big SeaArks ride very smooth in anything but real nasty chop so having items bounce/slide out of a rear facing opening would be rare. If you have any perfomance issues w that setup like getting on plane slowly or vauge steering, I would recommend a 4 blade prop. The addition of one on my 1860 G3/F90 made a huge improvement in all aspects of my boats handling compared to the same factory prop you have.
 
20 footers have a lot of freeboard, especially with the high sides on that SeaArk. In a good wind it takes some throttle to maneuver, and reverse can be tough. I don't mind the chop in mine, but I hate fighting the wind. Those tall guide ons will help loading on windy days.

Sitting on the rear deck I don't see how you can see over the bow! I stand, but I have a center console. I'm all for you raising the seat height.

Nice boat, keep us posted.
 
Those tall guide ons will help loading on windy days.

The trailer came with the tall, pvc pipe guide ons.

One of my fishing buddies warned me not to leave the dealership without adding on the 5' guide ons. You can barely see them in the first pic. Since I'm going to be by myself most of the time, I wanted all aids I could get.



Those big boats put the Ark in SeaArk! Looks like a smallish front deck for such a big jon,

The smaller bow is actually a big plus for me as I like to keep my weight lower in the boat. Plans are to build a 'step' at the back of the bow. Since I already know that I'm going to be stern heavy, I want to consider this area for a 'battery bank' for the trolling motor, ect. IIRC, from the front to the back of the bow is right at 4', later on I want to consider 2 options for casting seat, opt. 1 would be a single seat, in the center. Opt. 2 would be 2 casting seats in the bow. Have to get some water time and see how stable this boat is going to be.

I'm getting tired of Winter hanging on, ready for some warmer temps.

Fred
 
The only thing I hate about open floors like that is that stuff is always laying in the floor in the way. But man, I love the room in those things! That thing has a freakin' dance floor in it!
 
I had hull letter to install and the local sporting store was out of half the letters and numbers I needed so I went to Peterson Marine a local boat dealership and they had a computer that printed out the letters and the number on one continuos sheet with the required spacing you just press it on and pull off the backing! very sweet! And by the way it was cheaper than buying everything seperatly, so call a local boat dealership. Hope that helps by the way nice boat :)
 
Where did you get the old DOT signs? I emailed the NC DOT for Wake County the other day and it said they weren't allowed to sell them. Mine telling me where you got yours?
 
23mako said:
Where did you get the old DOT signs? I emailed the NC DOT for Wake County the other day and it said they weren't allowed to sell them. Mine telling me where you got yours?


It's a trap! #-o
 
frenchythefisherman said:
I had hull letter to install and the local sporting store was out of half the letters and numbers I needed so I went to Peterson Marine a local boat dealership and they had a computer that printed out the letters and the number on one continuos sheet with the required spacing you just press it on and pull off the backing! very sweet! And by the way it was cheaper than buying everything seperatly, so call a local boat dealership. Hope that helps by the way nice boat :)


I've ordered my 'letters and numbers' from fellow forum member 'Bulldog'. Considering gas and time, it was a 'no-brainer'.
 
I found the sign half buried in dirt and leaves, abandoned in the woods off the side of I-40 a few years after a major highway widening/bridge improvement project and assumed the state did'nt want it anymore . I had it for about 18 years before I finally found a use for it. It was perfect for my new boats project and It was another way to show my wife how I was not a horder, ( bringing home and storing stuff she thinks is junk ), I only keep things I can use someday :lol:
 

Latest posts

Top