spine of my boat is leaking

[Red-Eye]

Yes, i see your point now. And have decided against it. And i would be trying to replace the rivets, but dont you have to have access to the floor of the boat to do that?

 

[Red-Eye]

Red-Eye » 24 Mar 2014, 23:32[/url]"]Just doing some looking around and came across this stuff . https://www.net4sale.com/Shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=12&idproduct=48 has anyone else used this, or does anyone have any ideas on how well this would work

It doesn't seem to be waterproof. I would stick with products designed for marine use.

it says its waterproof on the website, yet it doesnt say to what extent. Would you think this is just a fancier version of JBweld

 

[rscottp]

Red-Eye » 25 Mar 2014, 14:10[/url]"]

Red-Eye » 24 Mar 2014, 23:32[/url]"]Just doing some looking around and came across this stuff . https://www.net4sale.com/Shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=12&idproduct=48 has anyone else used this, or does anyone have any ideas on how well this would work

It doesn't seem to be waterproof. I would stick with products designed for marine use.

it says its waterproof on the website, yet it doesnt say to what extent. Would you think this is just a fancier version of JBweld

Website says "water resistant". I would say its a less fancy version of JB weld.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Red-Eye » Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:07 pm[/url]"]Yes, i see your point now. And have decided against it. And i would be trying to replace the rivets, but dont you have to have access to the floor of the boat to do that?

I guessing it's solid aluminum rivets you need to replace? Once you have identified the leaky rivets if you can get to both sides you re-buck the rivet. If you can't re-buck the leaky rivets you may need to replace them. Drill a 3/16" hole into the top of the rivet not too deep unless you feel you have hit dead center. Then you take a sharp chisel and remove the top of the rivet and punch the remainder of the rivet into the boat. You will want an all aluminum closed end rivet them same size as the rivet hole 3/16" or 1/4". If you can't find all aluminum closed end rivet you can use a standard all aluminum rivet. They also make stainless steel rivets but their more expensive. Take the rivet and apply some 3M5200 to the rivet barrel and install the rivet. Then wipe off any excessive 5200, It takes about 1 week for the 5200 to harden / cure.

 

[onthewater102]

Red-Eye » 25 Mar 2014, 14:07[/url]"]Yes, i see your point now. And have decided against it. And i would be trying to replace the rivets, but dont you have to have access to the floor of the boat to do that?

Not if you use the closed blind rivets I'll link you again here

https://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivets/blind-rivets/closed-end-blind-rivets.html

You'll just drill the existing ones out from the underside of the boat, clean the area around them (about a quarter size area will be more than fine) hit the hole with a dab of that 3M5200 caulk to seal it all up if you can't get to beneath the floor to pull the whole rib off. Done correctly it shouldn't need the caulk - but seeing as it's a repair not original work there's likely to be something out of alignment etc to cause you grief.

 

[onthewater102]

For whatever it's worth this is how my grandfather and I fixed his rowboat back when I was in middle school. Grandpa's gone, I've got 2 kids, a house, yadda yadda, and the boat is still dry some 18-20 years later.

 

[Winddog]

onthewater102 » 24 Mar 2014, 09:15[/url]"]

I applied an aluminum solder over the leaking rivets which worked well but was a pain in the ass to get the aluminum hot enough and warped the aluminum if you weren't careful (learned the hard way not to heat up anything but riveted rib sections). Probably would have worked better on a thick-skinned Alumacraft than the Sea Nymph I was working with.


.

I have also tryed this "solder" I couldn't get it to stick to the Alum. also had warping & cracking.This stuff is snake oil in my opinion.

 

[onthewater102]

Winddog » 26 Mar 2014, 13:06[/url]"]

onthewater102 » 24 Mar 2014, 09:15[/url]"]

I have also tryed this "solder" I couldn't get it to stick to the Alum. also had warping & cracking.This stuff is snake oil in my opinion.

Yeah - it really needs a clean and scored up surface to bond to - I later used it to fix the weld along the bottom of the transom that was cracked on my grandfather's rowboat - that was working with 2 pieces of sheet that were 90 degrees off and there it worked like a charm - I guess it's application specific, the heat it requires warps sheet aluminum something fierce if not in a rigid configuration.

Did you apply yours using a torch or a heavy-duty soldering gun? I used an oxy/acetylene plumbing torch - perhaps it was overkill...

 

[Winddog]

onthewater102 » 26 Mar 2014, 11:13[/url]"]

Winddog » 26 Mar 2014, 13:06[/url]"]

onthewater102 » 24 Mar 2014, 09:15[/url]"]

I have also tryed this "solder" I couldn't get it to stick to the Alum. also had warping & cracking.This stuff is snake oil in my opinion.

Yeah - it really needs a clean and scored up surface to bond to - I later used it to fix the weld along the bottom of the transom that was cracked on my grandfather's rowboat - that was working with 2 pieces of sheet that were 90 degrees off and there it worked like a charm - I guess it's application specific, the heat it requires warps sheet aluminum something fierce if not in a rigid configuration.

Did you apply yours using a torch or a heavy-duty soldering gun? I used an oxy/acetylene plumbing torch - perhaps it was overkill...

I started with the propane plumbing tourch, couldn't seem to get it hot enough, eneded up using a size 00 ocy / acetylene tourch also.

 

[Red-Eye]

So i got the 5200 and am waiting for the weather to improve to put it on. But after i hit the spots with it. Is it okay to paint over? I planned on using a marine paint with a hardener in it. I heard steelflexwas goodtoo. What do you guys think

 

[bulrid8]

Yes, you can paint over it. Just be aware that it takes a week to cure right. So I wouldnt paint it until it is fully dry.

 

[Red-Eye]

Actually i got the quick setting formula. And it only takes a day to cure fully

 

[Red-Eye]

And do you have any suggestions on what paint to use

 

[bulrid8]

Up to you. I used regular Rustoleum. Brushed it on

 

[Red-Eye]

Like rustoleum marine paint or is there a certian type of paint to use. What about paint hardeners

 

[bulrid8]

Others can chime in. I used regular Rustoleum in quart cans. I let each coat dry 24hrs in between. Should hold up fine.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Red-Eye » Sat Mar 29, 2014 5:01 pm[/url]"]Actually i got the quick setting formula. And it only takes a day to cure fully

Don't believe it. Rustoleum is fine that's what I'm using, thin it a little and yes you want to use hardener.

 

[Red-Eye]

So i got the 5200 on all my seals nd rivets yesturday. It went on fairly easily and is drying quick. Now im just waiting on the primer and hardener to arive in the mail. Before i apply the zinc chromate primer do i need to remove all paint or just rough it up ?

 

[Red-Eye]

Picture if the bottom as of right now

 

[onthewater102]

That's an etching primer designed to bond to aluminum - how much did you order? You can get away with cleaning off all chipped, flaking or otherwise poorly painted surfaces down to bare aluminum and just cleaning the rest of the boat really well, then scuffing up the remaining paint...looking at your pick I'd be wanting to repaint to clean aluminum if you've got the primer.


Where did you end up getting the rivets so quickly? Or am I so lost in tax season that a week or more has gone by ...