Spinning Reel Maintenance

[LDUBS]

What if anything are you guys doing for routine maintenance of your spinning reels? Do you break them down occasionally, clean the inside, re-oil, etc?

 

[DaleH]

Insides? Maybe on a saltwater reel (for bearings, if cranky) or an unknown reel that's old ... as old grease can get sticky, so I let the reel tell me.

Outside? Wash and rinse, keep line out of the sun. Pre-season ... all moving parts get lubed - BreakFree CLP on moving parts and Reel-X on bearings. Post-season ... wash, rinse lube, maybe less the bearings (depends how accessible, etc.).

Special consideration for saltwater reels: On aluminum body reels, if you see paint 'bubbling' next to stainless steel screws/bolts, that is evidence of dissimilar corrosion between the SS and aluminum. I remove the screws and coat them with Tef-Gel, that the US Navy developed to insulate SS from aluminum on its 'tin fleet' of cruisers and destroyers, but a good coating of a waterproof/synthetic grease will work too.

For that purpose, the good ol' OMC/Bombardier 'Triple Guard' grease can't be beat, for EVERYWHERE on the boat/engine that needs a protective grease! Now every OB maker sells it and it likely all comes from the same factory, but the best price is the tub of it from OMC/BOMB, often 1/2 to 2/3rds the price of any of the .... uhhhh, Japanese branded motors.

 

[LDUBS]

Thanks DaleH. We could have rain for the next 10 to 15 days. Sounds like a good project to do some reel maintenance (and keep me out of Mrs Ldub's hair).

In general I guess I would be grease for gears and oil for bearings.

 

[DaleH]

In lieu of Reel-X, hardware stores usually sell (or used to?) sewing machine oil. That is a nice pure 'light' oil suitable for bearings.

 

[Transplant]

New reels I usually run for 2 years, everything else gets taken apart every spring for a good cleaning. Oil on the parts that need oil, grease on the parts that need grease. For me I think the important part though is just getting the dust and dirt and sand all cleaned out of the inside to keep everything lasting as long as possible.

 

[crannman]

It’s a good winter project.
To keep everything handy I took a 3 ring notebook, added some page protectors to save the information that came with each reel and a place for the oil and grease.
I either cut the box the reel came in to save information about the reel or copied it and put the pamphlet along the little plastic envelope of drag washers in the page protector then sorted each page alphabetically. I like saving the box the reels come in but they were taking up too much storage space. I’ll print out information about about a reel, for example, specific information about maintaining the reel, and add that to the page as well.
It’s a relaxing pass time on a day with nothing to do give them a cleaning.
I read somewhere that it’s a good practice to back off the drag on your reels if they’re going to sit for several months. I might try that this year.

 

[cyclops2]

I never take any reels apart. unless I drop them completely in the water. I have never found water inside of a sunk reel. fishing very actively for 75 years. I retrieve the reel & rod. Then violently shake the reel for a minute. A spinning reel has the spool removed. shook dry then allowed to air dry for 1 day. Re Oil the shaft and parts. Might buy new friction washer if it is erratic or feels different.
Brand name reels do not need constant oiling. The tolerances are so close that water & dirt are kept out of the moving parts.

Tiny reels are a joke. Even the factory can not repair a bad bail spring.

Never buy those ridiculous little pieces of junk. Constant problems.

 

[Tinny Fleet]

I fish fresh, salt and brackish water and have a few additions to the above:

First, if you dunk the reel or rinse it off (gently under warm water), spray lightly with WD40, let it stand and wipe it off. This is where WD40 shines - not as a lubricant but as a water displacer. It also helps shed salt.

Second. Strip all line. When it is stripped, clean off the spool, and spray it with Corrosion X, or coat with carnuba wax. If there are salt deposits, remove the drag washers and soak the spool in some vinegar for a few minutes. Take a picture of the order of the drag washers for reference. If the line is mono and it has been on the reel for more than a few months, just toss it: Old line takes a "set" which impairs castability, and reusing it will just produce a heartache on a lost big fish! Braid can be reused, but I'll reverse it so the unworn portion is now on the top.

Third. While the spool is soaking, clean (usually just a wipe off) the metal drag washers and inspect the fiber ones. Unless the reel has been subject to heavy fish runs and the washers are "smoked" they can be resused. I wipe mine off with a cloth (not paper towel that will leave paper residue on the washer material) and paint on some Cal's Grease. Evenly. Then lightly wipe. Reassemble spool and drag assembly.

Fourth, scrape off old grease and lubricate reel. Internal parts that have hardened grease get an acetone bath (which never gets used on exterior parts because it will take the finish off). For lubricants, I use corrosion X and the blue outboard motor grease mostly, as the case may be.

Fifth, the bail is a consistent maintenance hotspot item. A vector for sand, salt, heat, friction and detrius. I disassemble the line roller mechanism, clean and install. Check the roller carefully for wear, and the bearing. The bearing (or bushing) will likely need a bath, perhaps in rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner (outdoors!). Use a piece of coat hanger wire to hold it safely away from you).

Sixth, remove handle. And dissassemble whatever parts of it you (easily) can. If gritty I may toss it in the sonic cleaner (just warm water with a few drops of Dawn dishwashing detergent), which generally shakes the crud loose. Reassemble and lubricate. On older reels with very loose tolerances and removable knobs, I may grease the handle knob shaft. Otherwise a spritz of corrosion x (or reelx) does the job.

Seventh, the general rule on drags is to tighten the drags to rinse the reel off, and loosen them for storage.

Eighth, spray reel overall and wipe down. Load line, and you are good to go!

Hope this helps!

 

[LDUBS]

I never take any reels apart. unless I drop them completely in the water. I have never found water inside of a sunk reel. fishing very actively for 75 years. I retrieve the reel & rod. Then violently shake the reel for a minute. A spinning reel has the spool removed. shook dry then allowed to air dry for 1 day. Re Oil the shaft and parts. Might buy new friction washer if it is erratic or feels different.
Brand name reels do not need constant oiling. The tolerances are so close that water & dirt are kept out of the moving parts.

Tiny reels are a joke. Even the factory can not repair a bad bail spring.

Never buy those ridiculous little pieces of junk. Constant problems.

Not sure what qualifies as a tiny reel. I have a size 1000 Shimano that is pretty small size-wise. Use it on a 9' float and fly rod with 4# mono. Caught a lot of fish with it. I'm pretty happy with it. I don't understand those miniature reels that are a few inches long. Maybe for backpackers? They just don't seem practical.

 

[cyclops2]

I was given 2 Ultra Lights. Even 4# test braid or Mono was only 50 foot casts. Some people rave about them. A nice Small Mouth Bass would often make it tp a snag or a weed patch and hopefully freedom.

 

[LDUBS]

I was given 2 Ultra Lights. Even 4# test braid or Mono was only 50 foot casts. Some people rave about them. A nice Small Mouth Bass would often make it tp a snag or a weed patch and hopefully freedom.

You mean ultra light rods with 4# test? Not a good match for any black bass when structure is involved.

 

[cyclops2]

Bingo 1 They are like hooking a Channel Catfish on the first run. I was using the Diawa Ultralight reels. Used them & 2# test on trolling for schools of Yellow Perch. A 14" or 16" perch is a hoot and great eating. I think the perch actually smell sweet when caught & filleted after boating them. Then into ice water in a ziplock bag.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

FWIW: Just saw the thread and finished prepping mine for the coming season, just within the last week. I'm freshwater only, so it is mainly clean the outside, and lube externals: line roller guide, bail, handle. Sometimes the rotor needs to be tightened slightly. Sometimes I go inside but only to oil the ball bearings on each side of the handle. Check operation.

I had two reels that were candidates for the spare parts bin. A Symetre 4000 which turned out to be some sort of foam got caught up inside the rotor. Saved for channel cat duty. The other, a Daiwa, worm gear and driven gear shot. From years of user abuse with braid.

All the spinning reels I've taken apart, never had water inside. Most of the time, the grease looks like new. Had some very old ones that i've cleaned out and relubed, but haven't done that in years.

 

[ChrisL2700]

Ive always been a weekend warrior, so never had to do anything, except oil the externals.
The past 3 years, I've been lucky enough to spend a lot of the spring and fall, on the Winnebago system, chasing walleye and white bass.
I'll spend 16 hrs, drifting jigs, and tossing 3 ways. Jigs are no problem, you just check them here n there. It's the 3 ways, with casting and retrieving that tests the reels.
Now, I know I'm using lower end reels, mainly Shimano Sienna and Sedona and I'm gonna slowly upgrade, as money allows.
The one thing that stumps me, is why my reels start binding up, after I use them a few hours. It feels like the grease or oil thickens, as I use them. They go from a smooth retrieve, to feeling like there's crisco in them. Temperature has no effect, happens hot or cold. Reel can be smooth as silk for hours or minutes, then next cast, gets bad enough that I have to swap out.
Last 2 years, I have taken them apart, just enough to clean and lube everything, but it makes no difference.
I've been told by many elders, that it's the bail roller bearing, and it just needs oil, but have tried that also.
Now, some of these reels I've had for decades, never an issue. Some were brand new, and started acting up 1st trip.
I know I need better equipment, and I'm working on that. But my older, go to reels never did this. Even after a solid 2 weeks on the water, and decades of use. Now, they all do it !
Am I missing something here, or can it just be that they're cheap reels ?
I use grease on gears, oil on all bearings. Whatever they have at Cabelas.

When reels start acting up, it feels like a tight spot, every rotation of the handle, at a certain point. Ive tried pulling the spool, but problem seems to be internal.
The thing that baffles me, is that it can come and go, at will.. If it's a bearing, wouldn't it happen all the time ?

I've always likes the way Shimano felt, and functioned. But, at $200,$300 each, for a higher end reel, I'm afraid those will start doing this also, probably right after warranty expires.
Have any of you had this problem with higher end Shimano reels ?

What's your opinion on Picifun... ?
From what I've read, they make a great reel, for the price.

I run 8 or 10lb Suffiix braid everywhere, except the drop to weight, where I use 8lb mono, in case of snags. For crankbsits I'll use a 3 or 4 ft FC leader. But 99% of time, Braid is on the reels.
The only issue I've had, has been with the reels getting sticky. And I've tried everything I can think of. Is it just low quality, or am I doing something wrong.
Thx

 

[sonny1]

Never crossed my mind that the reels needed to be cleaned and oiled. When they start screwing up I go buy a new one. Not into the high dollar stuff. A medium priced reel is good enough. Asked a six pound bass after reeling it in if it minded being caught on Walmart special but it refused to answer. It did say cheaper hooks would be Ideal.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Ive always been a weekend warrior, so never had to do anything, except oil the externals.
The past 3 years, I've been lucky enough to spend a lot of the spring and fall, on the Winnebago system, chasing walleye and white bass.
I'll spend 16 hrs, drifting jigs, and tossing 3 ways. Jigs are no problem, you just check them here n there. It's the 3 ways, with casting and retrieving that tests the reels.
Now, I know I'm using lower end reels, mainly Shimano Sienna and Sedona and I'm gonna slowly upgrade, as money allows.
The one thing that stumps me, is why my reels start binding up, after I use them a few hours. It feels like the grease or oil thickens, as I use them. They go from a smooth retrieve, to feeling like there's crisco in them. Temperature has no effect, happens hot or cold. Reel can be smooth as silk for hours or minutes, then next cast, gets bad enough that I have to swap out.
Last 2 years, I have taken them apart, just enough to clean and lube everything, but it makes no difference.
I've been told by many elders, that it's the bail roller bearing, and it just needs oil, but have tried that also.
Now, some of these reels I've had for decades, never an issue. Some were brand new, and started acting up 1st trip.
I know I need better equipment, and I'm working on that. But my older, go to reels never did this. Even after a solid 2 weeks on the water, and decades of use. Now, they all do it !
Am I missing something here, or can it just be that they're cheap reels ?
I use grease on gears, oil on all bearings. Whatever they have at Cabelas.

When reels start acting up, it feels like a tight spot, every rotation of the handle, at a certain point. Ive tried pulling the spool, but problem seems to be internal.
The thing that baffles me, is that it can come and go, at will.. If it's a bearing, wouldn't it happen all the time ?

I've always likes the way Shimano felt, and functioned. But, at $200,$300 each, for a higher end reel, I'm afraid those will start doing this also, probably right after warranty expires.
Have any of you had this problem with higher end Shimano reels ?

What's your opinion on Picifun... ?
From what I've read, they make a great reel, for the price.

I run 8 or 10lb Suffiix braid everywhere, except the drop to weight, where I use 8lb mono, in case of snags. For crankbsits I'll use a 3 or 4 ft FC leader. But 99% of time, Braid is on the reels.
The only issue I've had, has been with the reels getting sticky. And I've tried everything I can think of. Is it just low quality, or am I doing something wrong.
Thx

Shimano has had binding in some of their older models. I have had it in Symetre FI and FJ models. But none of the Stratics. My understanding is there is a plastic bushing that absorbs moisture over time. Mine were good for years, but started noticing some binding after an hour or two of use. Noticed it happening more if it was raining or high humidity.

What I noticed was when you stop reeling for a few seconds, when you restart reeling, it took more effort to get it started. I only have one “good” Symetre and three in the parts bin. I’ve heard that you can “sand out” the inside of the bushing. It will fix it for a while, but will come back. I haven’t bothered trying it.

 

[AlanT]

Shimano has had binding in some of their older models. I have had it in Symetre FI and FJ models. But none of the Stratics. My understanding is there is a plastic bushing that absorbs moisture over time. Mine were good for years, but started noticing some binding after an hour or two of use. Noticed it happening more if it was raining or high humidity.

What I noticed was when you stop reeling for a few seconds, when you restart reeling, it took more effort to get it started. I only have one “good” Symetre and three in the parts bin. I’ve heard that you can “sand out” the inside of the bushing. It will fix it for a while, but will come back. I haven’t bothered trying it.

I've had the same problem with Symetre reels. I caught many fish on them but as they got a little age on them they would bind while reeling, but not all the time. Had it professionally cleaned, but still had the problem. Have moved onto other reels. I like the Daiwa BG - seems like a better, smoother drag than the Shimano.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I only bought Daiwa after having problems with the Symetre. I received a gift of a Shimano Vanford last year. A very light reel and has been good so far. It did not come with spare spool and you can not switch off the anti-reverse, though. Surprising for a higher end spinning reel.

 

[dcbz]

I have some older Penn Spinfishers and have good luck with them. Though most of their manufacturing has moved to China, parts are still available and not too difficult to find. For lighter reels, I have used Pflueger Presidents and I like them too, though I am weeding them out as they break because it has become nearly impossible to find parts for them. It also matters to me that they are now made in China and Pflueger is only a name and they are part of the same company that owns Shakespeare. Approximately three years ago, my wife and I (she fishes with me most of the time) switched over to Shimano Stradic reels. We made the switch simply because Shimano is still conservative enough they make most of their parts for their mid/high end reels in house in one of their own factories in Japan or Malaysia and those parts are readily available. When they eventually develop problems, I am relatively certain that I will be able to find parts for them at eReplacementparts, Mikes Reel Repair, or directly from Shimano. I maintain my own reels and usually oil the handle and roller bearing once a month. I take them apart maybe once a year to clean and relube them. I do not remember what the IPX rating is for any of our reels, but they are not sealed to the same degree as something like a Van Staal so we take care not to dunk them. We do rinse them with fresh water when visiting the coast and spray them with Corrosion X when we get home.