The poor man's fishing boat

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So today didnt go as planned unfortunately. My fishing buddy (girlfriends brother) came out to get the rest of the neccesary things done so we could take it out today. After sanding the boat (Only where my number goes) and applying the stickers we were almost ready to go.
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Hooked up the trailer... no go on the lights. Wired it perfect so I got test the 4 pin and the thing has power between all the pins no matter where I test it.

So tomorrow I'll be getting a new connector so we can use the trailer. If it wasn't so windy I was debating strapping it to the top of the vehicle and calling it good.
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We still went fishing at a small dam nearby. A thunderstorm was slowly rolling in, nothing severe so we just stood out on the dam and kept fishing...
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To make things fun the wind suddenly picked up and water suddenly flowed over the dam. Chair went in and bye bye powerbait, but chair was saved along with the lamps and beverages we had sitting on the dam.

Tippy towed our way off as the rushing water made it slippery. So that was entertaining.
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Other news the paint jobs done were not properly prepped (I paint for a living) and is some of the easiest I've removed so may take a night to get exterior all the way down

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richg99 said:
When you own a boat, you always have something to do...or fix. Ha Ha

Re your trailer lights..90% of all trailer lighting issues are usually a bad ground someplace.

rich
What I noticed on the lights is if it my test light to the ground on the connector while the cable is completely unplugged, I get power through the light.

Thinking a bad crimp in the connector.

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Two things that I have done with used trailers.. #1 add two new ground wires, running them from the rear lights up to the front electrical connector. That eliminated many of the ground issues.

#2 These days, I just go buy a set of LED lights. Most come with the extra connectors. If not, I add them. LEDs are the best thing to eliminate trailer light issues, IMHO.
 
richg99 said:
Two things that I have done with used trailers.. #1 add two new ground wires, running them from the rear lights up to the front electrical connector. That eliminated many of the ground issues.

#2 These days, I just go buy a set of LED lights. Most come with the extra connectors. If not, I add them. LEDs are the best thing to eliminate trailer light issues, IMHO.
I'm thinking it may be related to the trailer having 2 parts as it has a swivel in the middle for easy launching.
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Today we decided to just toss it on top of a jeep and take it out for a test run. Our first attempt we launched into a stream by a dam that leads to a lake with no other access. Due to fast currents, water that was too shallow in random spots, and a bit of inexperience; we ended up standing on top of the dam walking the boat to the side and relocating to a different lake.

Second attempt went better and we were on our way when we noticed water coming in... we just got out so we weren't calling it quits. We stuffed a plastic bag in the hole which sealed better than some of the rivets on this boat.

Once home I decided to see how long it would take to sand all the paint off... 4 hours and 20% of it done I decided to wait till I can afford paint stripper. Also put rivets and silicon in the 2 holes on the back.

Still haven't got my small decks in, but will see what happens and if I get time soon.
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Trailer is hinged so we will be running wires. For the electronics on the boat I was curious if I could run the wires through the gunwale.

I'd have a hole drilled in the back, one drilled in the middle and a hole drilled in the front.

These would be for the rear and front navigation lights and the hole in the middle would be for the led floor lights I'm adding.

Battery will sit in the back.

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Unless your gunnel is dented or damaged, there is no reason why you cannot run the wires there. Be careful not to leave sharp edges where you drill your access holes.

On a Carolina Skiff, I owned a long time ago, wires were run through the rubber gunnel protector.

Another method of running wires is to use CPVC or PVC tubing on the inside of the sidewalls.
 
I tried on a sea nymph but I think the end of the metal that made up the sides were rough as it chewed up the wire insulation pretty badly just snaking them through. You'll know quickly enough if you've got that issue.
 
richg99 said:
Unless your gunnel is dented or damaged, there is no reason why you cannot run the wires there. Be careful not to leave sharp edges where you drill your access holes.

On a Carolina Skiff, I owned a long time ago, wires were run through the rubber gunnel protector.

Another method of running wires is to use CPVC or PVC tubing on the inside of the sidewalls.
Will be using rubber fittings so metal edges wont be a problem.

As I'm on a hard budget I figure using the existing boat instead of running PVC will save me some cash. Will still end up running some PVC in the middle but not much.

My girlfriend and son are back from a trip so my progress will slow down to a crawl. Hopefully will find time to invest in the boat here soon.

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So havent left an update in awhile as I havent got much more done on the boat. I got the trailer working by running a ground from 1 side of the hinged trailer to the other. Have been fishing the boat ever since.

This last weekend we fished 3 out of it successfully, tho it only topped at 11 and really dragged with the 6hp. Will be trying g a 10 hp on it sometime to see if it can handle it.

With 1 or 2 people the boat can fly. Only concerns right now are in regard to the battery and motors putting too much weight on the back when it's just me.

Will be looking at either front mounting my trolling motor or running wires to relocate the battery. Once my deck is in that may help also.
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richg99 said:
Re Front Mount trolling motor. 99% of high dollar Bass boats have them on the front.

It is easier to pull a string than to push it.
It will be easy enough with this trolling motor to rotate it. Will then add a foot switch I found that will be between the battery and motor so I can turn it on and off from my pedestal I'll be putting in up front.

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A foot switch is a great addition to any hand controlled trolling motor, IMHO. I've used the Big Foot brand, but just be sure your switch is rated for the amperage that a T.M. uses.

https://smile.amazon.com/Trolling-Switch-Action-Operated-Motors/dp/B001BAKM60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1529366956&sr=8-1&keywords=big+foot+trolling+motor+switch&dpID=41zbJj3cUiL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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So if you ignore the date i started this we can pretend theres been progress! Alot has happened since my last post... had a daughter and the boat progress haulted.

Today i finally got back at it. Removed the front bench to prepare for the deck, carpeted the deck and got the cup holder (important!) In, and started on paint prep for the interior.

Will be priming it and calling it good. Thinking for the front of the benches, to hide all the dents and dings, ill be using my extra carpet to face them.

Only 4 or 5 more years at this pace and ill be done!
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Right now its just sitting there. Did a pretty good cut for size. After i paint the inside of the boat it will have some angle brackets on bottom of deck rivetted to the boat and screws through the oar holders into the top.

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Quick update, interior is almost ready to prime. Just a little more sanding. Have been fitting carpet for the section between the benches. Got back sanded and primed.
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