This old Bayrunner

[Stumpalump]

Swapped out the 1983 16' Valco Bayrunner for this 1991 18' Bayrunner Open last month. Today I decided to unfurl the included Bimini top and to my surprise the canvas never ended. It wound up like this.

Go ahead...Laugh and make jokes. I did!

The boat came from Oregon so I guess it was nice in the cold air. I was wishing it was rainy and cold in here. The homemade plywood gas tank locker needs help.

You would have to stand in the cold to drive it but the wind would be blocked.

Even Bella was amazed especially when I climbed on the roof of the van to snap a picture.

Seen enough canvas yet? It may never go back on but it is kinda cool. It all unzips and snaps very well down to a standard Bimini. Only 3 snaps on the boat were buggered. Since it's so complete I'll go ahead and replace them.

 

[Stumpalump]

Besides two shake down runs our first trip was to Lake Rosevelt AZ. The motor sang but started to rev a little before it engaged into foward. Star wheels under the cowl were twisted to take up the slop in the shifter cable and throttle. Easy to do. Basically as the cable stretches you make the cable housing longer by screwing the star wheel.

 

[Stumpalump]

Few more of Theodore Roosevelt lake.

Last one of Roosevelt.

 

[davedude]

Nice boat dude! I like the lines and how deep it is. Sweet. Thanks for posting.
I don't know what to think about the canvas...still tryin to wrap my brain around it.....

 

[Stumpalump]

A craigslist CNC tilt and trim was installed. I wanted real trim tabs but the way to tell if a hydrofoil would be better is if the boat does not respond well to engine trim settings. It would cavitate way before it would porpoise and not move the bow up and down much as it went thru the motion. A home made aluminum plate hydrofoil fixed that. Now I can stuff the bow into the chop for a smooth ride or air out the front for good top end speed. The little steering tab was cut in half and smoothed out. They use the same size tab from 25 hp up to big block Chevy Bravo outdrives so I cut them down to size. It went from 28 to 32 mph with the mods.

The battery was relocated from under the console to under the seat in front of the console. The original blue vinyl seat cover was near mint so I covered it with green canvas to keep the sun off of it.

The center console got beefed up with additional screews to the floor and some corner brackets made from scrap aluminum. Nice and solid!

The wiring under the console was a typical mess so that got sorted when I relocated the battery. A new quick turn 3:1 no feedback steering system was installed to replace a sticky steering. The suicide knob steering wheel was really liked on my old boat so I put it on the new helm. The wood lower cover was added to make a trash bin/storage.

All of that canvas came in a pile. I thought it would need a large duffle bag but it fit into a small Walmart camp chair bag.

 

[Stumpalump]

Nice boat dude! I like the lines and how deep it is. Sweet. Thanks for posting.
I don't know what to think about the canvas...still tryin to wrap my brain around it.....

Thanks Man! Something I'm trying to wrap my brain around are these rear cleats. What are they and is there a proper way to tie onto them? The boat came with nice down riggers but they mounted one of the mounts right next to the cleat. It was double nutted with metric and American hardware. The one on the other side inhibited the use of both the down rigger and stern light at the same time. #-o
They added additional mounts foward and just left the ones in the wrong location. They were a royal pita to remove was why. I almost took a grinder too them.

 

[EZ707]

I've always wanted one of these. Nice boat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[davedude]

That is a pretty trick cleat man, it is a zig zag rope cleat.

 

[Stumpalump]

That is a pretty trick cleat man, it is a zig zag rope cleat.

Do you think that's enough to hold it? I was going back on itself again and it still seems sketchy.

This boat has a 3 way valve and a 2'nd fuel line going to a kicker motor. I replaced a bunch of hose and installed a fuel/water separator. The filters are available at auto parts stores. It looks just like a spin on oil filter. The bulb got pulled apart and cleaned as well. Found a perfect place for the bulb instead of laying flat in the splash well. Got rid of another rats nest of hoses and wires in the process. The hose clamps made today are not that great so I always store a couple of extras somewhere on the line as spares. Next is the tach calibration.

 

[Stumpalump]

The tach is now calibrated. The tach signal comes off of the stator. I read the signal with a frequency counter (Basic Fluke DVM with an HZ button on it). That reading is in seconds and RPM is minutes so you multiply by 60. Next divide that by 1/2 the number of poles on your stator. I had a 10 pole stator.
HZ X 60 then divide by 5 = RPM. My dash mounted tach was reading over 400 too high.

The back of the tach has a selector switch to match to your stator that was set wrong. 2nd boat in a row for me with the same problem.

A search of the web will tell you what setting to dial into the tach.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=837
Or you may have this tach like I did.
https://www.gandermountain.com/assets/prodman/IS0086_S_Outboard_Tach_Applications.pdf

A little racer talk her just as an FYI:
You can gain proven power at WOT by increasing the air flow to the 2 cly engines. Modify your engine cover. The air intake is the lift handle on the top rear of the cowl. Make sure the water diverted is glued down and throw a washer under the screews to raise the handle. A little tiny bit is all it needs. Too much and it will be louder and could take some water in from a big swell to the rear. The SST45 hydroplane racers claim it's good for 200 rpm on the top end. That's a stock motor class like this motor.

Here are the screews to the handle. I raised mine the thickness of a washer is all.

I actually performed that mod the week I bought it. It helped my old boat with almost the same engine as described. If you want to go really fast you can remove the airbox and rejet. That kills mid range power so don't mess with the airbox that's mounted on the carbs. If you do then get the stock jets that came on a 1983 engine. That was the sweet year for carb jets on Evinrudes. Best blocks, rods and carbs as well. I have all of that stashed away in the event I come across a 40-60 hp mid 80's short shaft tiller motor. 70hp is what they make. Safe to over 7000 RPM as well.

 

[davedude]

"Do you think that's enough to hold it? I was going back on itself again and it still seems sketchy."

You will have to test it, I have zero experience with that type.

So how did you know your stator had ten poles? Is it something you eyeball or from some reference? I need to add a tach to my 71 Johnson 50.

 

[Stumpalump]

"Do you think that's enough to hold it? I was going back on itself again and it still seems sketchy."

You will have to test it, I have zero experience with that type.

So how did you know your stator had ten poles? Is it something you eyeball or from some reference? I need to add a tach to my 71 Johnson 50.

Yours is a 10 pole as well. You find it on the charts then match it up with the switch setting. I provided two links with the charts above. It's not intuitive so you have to look for the number of poles then look up the right switch setting. There are more than one type of tac as well and their numbering on the switches are quite different. So if you grab a used tac you can use it if you set the switch. Using the Fluke just confirms it. I was hoping my tach also had the little adjustment tweeker screw to fine tune it. It did not. It was within a hundred RPM accurate so it's good. Checking and calibrating is done at 3000 rpm. Any less and the Fluke readings are a little erratic. Any more is to many RPM to rev the motor in neutral.

 

[DaleH]

That is a pretty trick cleat man, it is a zig zag rope cleat.

Do you think that's enough to hold it? I was going back on itself again and it still seems sketchy ...

I personally 'trust' those zig-zag cleats to hold a fender, that's about it. Even then I tie a figure-8 knot at the bitter end so the line can't pull all the way out. IMHO they do NOT replace a cleat.

Speaking of cleats, per Chapman's bible, look up the cleat hitch. Standing line goes to the side of the cleat horn bearing the load, go all around once, then form a figure 8 from horn to horn (Chapmans only uses 1 horn before locking), then a quick 'flip-loop' underhand loop to lock to the other horn. That'll hold in a hurricane ... but of course the dock (and boat) will be totally destroyed ... but your line will still be there !

 

[user 18775]

We use those zigzag speed cleats at the bow. We put a plastic bottle buoy on the anchor line. If a large salmon, striper or sturgeon hits it is quick to unhook and chase the fish. After landing, return to the buoy, reconnect to anchor, and fish.

I wonder if the previous owner used them for a drift sock.

I do not trust it for tying off or mooring.

Nice roof for anchoring for striper and salmon

 

[Stumpalump]

With a proper tach reading and mph from a phone app the numbers were added into a prop calculator.
https://www.mercuryracing.com/prop-slip-calculator/

I should be 4500-5500 RPM but the highest pitch they make is 17'. I'll have a prop shop add cup and or pitch to pull some RPM out. They charge $15 per blade.

You can fool with the calculator even if you don't have tach readings to see if you have the right pitch prop. Do not use my slip numbers! Use 16% for a 3 bladed prop and 21% for a two bladed prop. Add your lower unit gear ratio and speed from a GPS or phone app. If your heavy and boat is bogged with weight add more slip.

I always loved looking at the wakes.

These were taken a Lake Bartlett Arizona yesterday.

Ancient Chinese secrete and why I said do not use my slip numbers. Aftermarket trim units are way better than factory trim. They add set back. As the motor is trimmed up it is also raised off of the transom. More height=More speed and efficiency. You can read all about setback and height but for me the best reason is how it makes the boat turn. With the motor set back you have a lot more leverage in turns. As in tight turns and U- turns. The boat spins on a dime as it navigates out of a tight creeks or cove. Easier to drive around docks or the boat ramp. I love what it does to a boat but if you are already too heavy in the stern from a maxed out heavy four stroke then steer clear of this upgrade.

I'm sitting on a cooler when not standing. Any suggestions?

 

[spbash]

Nice boat and great pics/info.

I have an 1996 BR-18 Vee, essentially the same boat with a few different options. I did not like my pilots chairs as I'm too short to sit and drive, so I put in the following 1.25" aluminum pipe back support using some hand rail elbows and flanges. Outside dimensions are 38" x 24" (H x W). I've seen something similar where it is attached to an aluminum seat, and can go back and forth between positions.

My current setup:

I also include a cooler seat on boating days, attached to the decking with a couple of tie-down anchors & cinch straps.

A better setup:

I'll be making a permanent aluminum box like this one soon.

Hope this give you some seat inspiration.

 

[Stumpalump]

Nice boat and great pics/info.

I have an 1996 BR-18 Vee, essentially the same boat with a few different options. I did not like my pilots chairs as I'm too short to sit and drive, so I put in the following 1.25" aluminum pipe back support using some hand rail elbows and flanges. Outside dimensions are 38" x 24" (H x W). I've seen something similar where it is attached to an aluminum seat, and can go back and forth between positions.

My current setup:
View attachment 1
I also include a cooler seat on boating days, attached to the decking with a couple of tie-down anchors & cinch straps.

A better setup:

I'll be making a permanent aluminum box like this one soon.

Hope this give you some seat inspiration.

Nice boat! How do you like the Honda on it? First post...Welcome!
I've been fooling with everthing from bar stools to coolers on their side to find a seat I like. A yard sale counter height chair seems way better than the tall leaning posts I've seen. I'm glad I didn't buy one.
The one in your last pic looks like it belongs in a tin boat. I searched around and only a custom build would come close. At this point I'm thinking bench over a permenant tank. I love this chair but sometimes it's nice to scoot off center to balance the load or for the wind so I'm thinking a bench would be best.

I scored a little 2hp troller motor that I'll bring along as needed. Does anybody have experiance with this vintage 2 hp? It runs fine but I'd like to make it bulletproof for times I go to extreamly remote areas.

I also finally bought the seat bracket to mount the front seat. The floor mount was well installed and braced but are these types of seats OK to let passengers ride in if I go easy or is that a disaster waiting to happen? The wife wants to sit up there while under way.

 

[spbash]

The Honda is nice, I bought it new last year replacing the '95 Johnson 48 SPL that the boat came with. It did add about 25 lbs to the stern, so I replaced my 18 gallon portable gas tank from the transom area with a permanent 23 gallon tank under the center console bench to counter balance the additional weight.



I live in south-central Alaska, so I need a 4-stroke to go on a lot of the freshwater rivers and lakes. 50 HP is also the limit on the popular Kenai River. It's a beautiful place to go boating, but the waterways can be quite rough at times. The photo below is fairly representative of moderately nice conditions, rain and wind can whip up at anytime and turn the ride rough. You can see the Bayrunner in the background.



Regarding the seat upfront for you wife, I have had this same debate. After about two years of trying different seat locations up front and fighting the Seward chop or even the rough waves on Kenai lake with friends, I find sitting as far upfront as your seat is installed can be quite backbreaking. My "middle-ground" location for a seat is a little farther back & with cushions. Being off-center to the starboard side somehow seems to help with the natural balance of the boat. I think I saw your gas tank in this same spot though, not sure if you could mount your seat farther back.

 

[Stumpalump]

The Honda is nice, I bought it new last year replacing the '95 Johnson 48 SPL that the boat came with. It did add about 25 lbs to the stern, so I replaced my 18 gallon portable gas tank from the transom area with a permanent 23 gallon tank under the center console bench to counter balance the additional weight.

View attachment 1

I live in south-central Alaska, so I need a 4-stroke to go on a lot of the freshwater rivers and lakes. 50 HP is also the limit on the popular Kenai River. It's a beautiful place to go boating, but the waterways can be quite rough at times. The photo below is fairly representative of moderately nice conditions, rain and wind can whip up at anytime and turn the ride rough. You can see the Bayrunner in the background.

View attachment 2

Regarding the seat upfront for you wife, I have had this same debate. After about two years of trying different seat locations up front and fighting the Seward chop or even the rough waves on Kenai lake with friends, I find sitting as far upfront as your seat is installed can be quite backbreaking. My "middle-ground" location for a seat is a little farther back & with cushions. Being off-center to the starboard side somehow seems to help with the natural balance of the boat. I think I saw your gas tank in this same spot though, not sure if you could mount your seat farther back.

My home made tank locker hold two 6 gallon tanks and two 3's will fit next to them. I'd love to do what you did. I'm dying to rip that locker out. Where did you find such a perfect tank for that opening and where is the filler?

 

[spbash]

The tank I bought from Amazon (see link below).

- It is a Moeller Marine Below Deck Permanent Fuel Tank (23-Gallon, 24" x 20" x 12").
- I had to trim a little bit of the aluminum lip around the seat up to get in in the space.
- I made sure to include a bunch of anti-vibration foam to keep the existing bolt heads from damaging the tank. This includes below the tank and on all sides.
- Also had to raise up the seat by about 3.5" to allow space for the fill neck. I purchased the fill neck, hose, fuel tank vent and a few other items from my local West Marine store. I ended up using some left over treated 2"x4" wood to get the job done since it was basically free in my leftover pile. A custom aluminum lip would've been nice, but I don't have the equipment or the skills to work metal to that degree.

Given the difference in models years for our boats, you should check to make sure the internal dimensions of the seat are big enough, I found that I had roughly 1/2" or less of clearance on all sides (it was that tight!). Also, I figured I would never be able to get it out once I put it in there, so make sure you plan ahead for how you are going to install the tank.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MTB7MY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1