This thing is a can of worms

[Monster1]

Bought a 95 lowe 1448 with a 25hp johnson. Took it out half a dozen times and then started having problems with the motor. Had a guy do some work to it and got it back still not right. Figured I'd do it myself so I did and got it running good enough that I could use the boat. Found out the guy didn't put anything back together properly and most things were finger tight AFTER the starter bolts sheared off from the side load.

Took the boat to a machine shop to see about getting the sheared bolts extracted so I could fix it yet again. They told me I'd have to split the case on the powerhead and bring it to them so they could get it on the bench. They quoted 500 bucks to do the job. Ok. Repower it is.

Bought a 20hp Suzuki remote steer outboard for the boat. I was going to just slap it on and go fishing. My wife convinced me to do it right and make any repairs to the hull, paint it and THEN hang the motor. I'm retired now so what else do I have going on?

Anyway, I pulled the motor. I deleted the center split bench which revealed spray foam against the hull that created pin holes over the years. No big deal. Aluminum screen material and JB Weld plugged those holes really well. Flipped the hull and found the riveted center strake torn. Not a big deal. The hull bottom is really clean and no dents or damage anywhere. Figure it could be welded shut

Waiting on a guy to come do some welding, I notice lots of pin holes in the transom. Ok. Still no big deal. I can have the guy drop a tack on those too. Then I notice a few small cracks in the welds on the corner braces on the transom cap. I'm thinking maybe I should replace the wood transom? I've poked around with a pick in the motor mount holes and the wood seems ok.

If I dug into that, I'd have to grind the welds out off the corner braces to get the wood out right (the inside panel that covers the transom is welded to the bracket too)? I'm torn between just hanging the motor once the strake is repaired, hull painted and flipped or just putting it back together without messing with the transom. It didn't flex under load or when I pushed down on the motor when tilted. But maybe the hairline cracks tell a different story?

I've seen far worse just get a coat of bondo and paint on YouTube that would probably get a guy by for several years. My goal is to fix this boat up, fish it and sell it in a few years hoping to recoup most of my money I put into it. I'll have about eight thousand after I'm done building it out.

I still want to do everything correctly, even though I plan on selling in a few years. I'm not the kind of guy to drop a problem on the next unsuspecting buyer. Should the transom be replaced or should I leave it alone?

 

[Stand Up]

My opinion is to get the cracks welded and dealt with. That will only get worse as time passes.
As far as the 25 HP motor goes, you should be doing your own repairs. Extracting sheared off bolts isn't all that difficult and quite rewarding once you've accomplished the task.
Take your time with the boat and fix it up if you have the time and funds.
I'd like to see more pictures of the whole boat as well.

 

[Crazyboat]

I agree, do the hull cracks correctly. I'm not that handy but have in the past taken out a few sheared off bolts, give it a try.

 

[Monster1]

Once I get the boat repaired and back together, and have it turn key condition with the new motor, I plan on tackling getting the old johnson back into shape to sell it. The issue with extracting the bolt is that it's stainless steel and the parent material is aluminum. I'm currently living in my trailer l, all my belongings are in storage including my tools. It's not a project I want to tackle working on a pinic bench with my road tools.

 

[Stand Up]

So in that situation, use an extractor and heat up the surrounding aluminum so it expands ever so slightly. Then turn the extractor and it will be far easier. Sometimes you will be surprised just how easy it comes out. And yes, wait until you have a good area to work in. I have found that buying the tools or using the ones you have is still less expensive than paying someone to screw it up for you. Plus you get to know your motor in case it gives you grief on the lake.

 

[Monster1]

So in that situation, use an extractor and heat up the surrounding aluminum so it expands ever so slightly. Then turn the extractor and it will be far easier. Sometimes you will be surprised just how easy it comes out. And yes, wait until you have a good area to work in. I have found that buying the tools or using the ones you have is still less expensive than paying someone to screw it up for you. Plus you get to know your motor in case it gives you grief on the lake.

I agree. It's just the drilling a hole in stainless steel to put a tap in it that has me concerned. But once I'm in my new house and shop with all my tools at my disposal, it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Axhammer]

Try a left hand drill bit. Sometimes it will catch and run the broken bolt out…like hitting pay dirt.

 

[Monster1]

Try a left hand drill bit. Sometimes it will catch and run the broken bolt out…like hitting pay dirt.

Sounds like a good idea. I bought a brand new 20hp Suzuki for the boat. The 25hp johnson is sitting in the corner of my friends shop. So I'm not super worried about getting it going now. But when I decide to extract that bolt and fix the motor to sell, I think a left hand but will probably take care of it. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Pale_Horse_Idaho]

 

[LaqueRatt]

Don't know why this caught my eye, but that's a brilliant video! Definitely learned a few things and looks like I need to buy a few more tools.

 

[LDUBS]

Don't know why this caught my eye, but that's a brilliant video! Definitely learned a few things and looks like I need to buy a few more tools.

The video was great, even though they do tend to make it look easier than it will likely be in real life. I have self centering hinge bits. Left handed bits, not so much. I hope I never need them! Lol.

At some point I read on these forums that the best penetrating fluid is a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Yes that's the old mechanic's formula. I've never tried it, but probably should. I've had pretty good luck at getting out snapped bolts, but the centering is always a challenge and I'm seldom right on the money. A fave trick of mine is if the bolt snaps off flush is to drop a nut on top of it and fill the inside with weld. Many times with a little heat it'll spin right out.