Tiller Jet outboard for a 1752 Weldbuilt

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lucescoflathead

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I plan on buying a bigger boat next summer, so I'm in the planning stage. I'm considering a 1752F Weldbuilt. Probably a tunnel, don't know if I'm going with the .100 hull or the .080. The boats going to open with probably a storage bench seat in the rear and a livewell on the side.

As for the motor, I'm debating between the Tohatsu 50/35 or or a 40 HP 4 stroke jet. The notor will be a tiller. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Todd
 
Sounds underpowered. One of your dealers up there should know that sells a lot of jets but personally I'd put the biggest thing they'll let you. Everyone seems to say they don't need to go fast but those same people are usually wrapping there motor out everywhere they go while I run 4K rpm and get better fuel mileage with a bigger motor.
 
I have an 1852 blazer ss with a 60/40 Mercury big tiller. Love it. We do have motor restrictions on the river I run mostly so that is why I got what I got. If no restrictions I would have got the 115/80 tiller and got a bigger boat. Mine will go 33 downstream and 29 up. That is fast enough for the river but wished I had a little more speed when I go to the lake. Mine is an .80 gage. I see very few tunnels on jets where I live. I have two seats with live wells under them in the rear. My motor is easy on gas as well.


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I run a 60/40 4 stroke Merc on my 1644 Alweld and I love it as well! I can run 28 upstream and 30 downstream. (My hull is beat up really bad). I have a 1752 Alweld currently on order. I stuck with the smaller motor due to the small streams I run on. Sometimes I have to get out and drag my boat through log jams so I need to keep it light. I agree with Archery68, a 115/80 would be a great motor. I believe on Mercury's website the 115/80 and 90/65 weigh exactly the same. Evinrude now makes factory jets and they come in a few pounds lighter than the Mercury.
 
I have a Lowe 1652 tunnel with a Mercury 60/45 2 stroke and I never need to use full throttle. I just go up river and float back down so I'm not in a hurry. You can hear when the jet outboard starts to get loud and obnoxious and I usually run just below that point. I see guys in smaller boats running 20 or 30 hp jets and they are usually screaming full out to go upstream. I think you're better off having the extra power so you can run in the sweet spot but you'll have the extra if you need it in an emergency or are really loaded down.
 
I would add that I always was a Johnson evinrude guy but when I went to purchase my new setup the Evinrudes are so high priced!!! Couple thousand higher than the Mercury. My boat guy has been putting together Jet boats in southern Missouri since they been putting jets together and he suggested to me to get a 1852 for tiller cause it puts more weight out front to get on plane quick, and it does.


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If I were you, I wouldn't even consider .80 boat, after all the trouble someone else had with one. .1 or nothing. Mixing metal thicknesses is asking for trouble IMHO.
 
I have had 3 .80 boats and have zero issues with them, love my current Blazer ss, I can't speak for other brands. I think you can put a hole in .100 just as quick as u can an .80. The .80 weighs less if your wanting more speed with smaller motors.


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From my experiences I have had good luck with .080. My 1644 Alweld was previously owned by a buddy of mine and he was rough on it. When I bought it, it had dents all over the bottom of it. He actually centered a rock doing 25 mph and put a two foot wide dent just in front of the back bench that bent the bracing. I was able to get all the dents pressed back out by a friend of a friend that worked for boat company. Boat still doesn't leak. This is just my own experiences I'm sure there are others that have horror stories regarding the lighter aluminum. It fits my needs for the small local rivers I run to help keep the overall weight low.
 
Usually the .080 is a different grade of metal that is actually stronger then the .100". I worked with a guy that use to build boats and that's what he was explaining to me that they used a softer grade of metal for the .100 so it was easier to work with because they couldn't bend .100 in the same gauge as the .080 came in as well. I'm all for .080 myself but hey if a extra .020" makes your feel better go for it.
 
My dream boat: 19/60 flat bottom semi v with mercury 115/80 jet tiller. Could only take it on the lower Current River but would be nice on the lake. A stable platform for sure that would run good enough with that 80 merc.


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What gauge boat is whatever you prefer if it were me I'd go for .100 assuming that the .100 and .080 are of the same grade aluminum I'd go for the extra material in hopes of a little stronger hull. That's just my opinion I'd rather have a little thicker hull, but I can understand wanting it to be lighter as well for more speed and easier to push over crap. If your going for the 50/35 cause you run on rivers with the 40hp restriction I'd go for a 60/40 engine rather than the 50/35. Most of the 60/40 engines are going to use a large series pump rather than the medium series the tohatsu 50/35 and 40/35 use. Although technically the 60/40's only have 5hp more they will provide more thrust than the 50/35 ever can cause they use a larger pump. The advantage the tohatsu is they are one of the lightest motors made now if you were looking at the two stroke tldi motors. I use to have a older 2002 carbureted three cylinder 40hp nissan which are the exact same as tohatsu it was a good motor I just swapped it in favor of a two stroke 60hp mercury to switch to a jet lower since I new the 40hp with a jet would be a dog on my boat with the jet vs the 60 with a jet. Granted my nissan was a 40hp rather than a 50hp but it would have used the same outboard jet as the 50 as the 40hp and 50hp were the same other than the 50's had bigger carbs and a different exhaust tuner. To the best of my knowledge the tohatsu's are still like that the 40hp and 50hp have the same displacement, same block and everything the 40hp just has intake restricters and a different tune to derate it.
 
1752F Weldbilt made with .80 & .100. All .80 is only available in bottom width of 42'' and smaller.
 
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