Time to redo the transom and add some flotation pods PICS!!!

[Ranchero50]

Makes sense, so if he adds a 2" tunnel he could theoretically raise the engine two more inches as long as the water is getting to the intake plate...

 

[orion_134]

Those hydro jacks are just so dern expensive.

So that is a good rule of thumb for me to start off with. I can start the first set of holes so that the cavitation plate is 2" higher than now and give it a whirl. Subject to change once I get the PT-35 in and see my options.

Another reason I want tilt vs. rise is because the pin to manually lock/hold my motor up is so wore out I have to beat it in/out with a paddle no matter how much I grease it, so it's two birds with one stone in my eyes.

 

[richg99]

re PIN.... You might want to replace it now or make a replacement. The original one is probably bent. I sure wouldn't want to have my motor stuck in an up or down position at the wrong time. I can see myself dropping my hammer overboard trying to knock the thing out some day.

I keep on reading about guys with hydraulic tilt/trim units that are stuck in the DOWN position when they come in over a shallow flat full of oyster reefs. Those relays go out at the most inconvenient times.

Stainless would be best, but a galvanized bolt would probably last a couple of years, even in saltwater. Rich

 

[orion_134]

I don't know how it would bend, it's probably 3/4" thick. All it does is hold the engine in the full up position for transport. It currently just has a hydraulic assist ram that will remain in operation in conjunction with the PT-35. The motor can still be pushed up, it isn't locked down.

 

[richg99]

Some guys use "transom savers" but the jury seems to be out on those. Some people think that the "transom saver" just transfers the shock from the road back to the engine/transom. Others don't.

I only use the clip that comes on the engine, but my current motor is only a 40 hp. I did see a "transom saver" some years ago that used the gas shocks that support our auto hoods and Van gates. But, it was discontinued. Not enough buyers, I suppose, or...that idea wasn't a good one either. Don't really know. regards, Rich

 

[orion_134]

I just priced out the 1/8" aluminum and the 2" box tube...the rear deck is going to have to wait. I also can't seem to find a scrap yard near here that will sell the aluminum by the pound...

Who has leftovers in FL?

 

[orion_134]

So I found an awesome scrap metal dealer and bought 150 lbs of aluminum. Enough to do transom, flotation pods, DIY jackplate, and deck from rear bench back. 1/8" plate for transom skin and deck, 2" x 1/8" square for transom support, 1" x 1/16" square for deck support, 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle for jackplate...and now I'm broke, but not nearly as broke as I would have been buying it outright.

Now time to order the PT-35,

Game on.

 

[Ranchero50]

Hope you grabbed a couple thicker chunks to practice on How much was 150lb from the scrap guy?

Jamie

 

[orion_134]

$412

 

[orion_134]

Old transom wood, and knee braces are out, transom skin has been beaten back into submission, and I've decided to remove the rear bench in favor of bracing and more under-deck space. Phone ate my pics, so none of the teardown. I'll get some pics up next time.

 

[orion_134]

Even after resizing to 800x600, it still tells me my images may only be up to 800 pixels wide. Here's the direct links:

https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/IMG_20110905_203534.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/IMG_20110905_203502.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/IMG_20110905_203450.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/IMG_20110905_203438.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/IMG_20110905_203424.jpg

 

[orion_134]

Had a huge welding snafu that led me to not be able to use the spool gun so I'm pushing the wire through my little 130xp. Needless to say, this welder doesn't have enough heat to get the job done, especially when trying to weld the transom skin on. The lack of heat means that the filler just globs off like hot solder and lands on my feet.

It works fine on the bench though, allowing the puddle to sit still and get the base material heatsoaked, so I was able to weld up the transom brace. I'm going to try to preheat everything with a torch today and hope that works...

 

[Ranchero50]

What is the snafu?

 

[orion_134]

Basically the 130xp wouldn't work with the spoolmate 100, so I tried using the 130 as a pusher and it doesn't have the amperage. So, I am borrowing a friend's 252 Millermatic and this thing is beast! No problem pushing 0.035" 5356 through a 15' lead and I'm finally getting penetration. I've welded the transom brace and need to setup some more practice pieces for the transom skin going on the back of the boat. Welding at a negative angle uphill is one of the more difficult welding positions, so I want to practice some more before trying it on the boat.

 

[Ranchero50]

Weld downhill pulling on the vertical. Sometimes you can push downhill. The 252 should let you tune the heat better, the 210 has seven heat setpoints so you have to tune the speed and how you hold the gun to tune the weld.

Jamie

 

[orion_134]

Motor is almost ready to be hung.

Welding tip: no matter what you do on your end or how perfect you are doing it, ground sucks = weld sucks. Jus sayin. Much better now.

 

[orion_134]

Yay!

Now to rip out the benches and start building the deck. Or maybe I'll start on the flotation pods. Or maybe I'll halfway do each. Just glad to have that engine off the stand.

 

[orion_134]

Wow, has it really been that long since I worked on the boat? Here's what I finished yesterday:
For some reason no matter how much I resize the pic, even down to 600x480, it still tells me it has to be under 800 pixels. Damn you internet. Here's the link:
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/IMG_20120105_174052.jpg


As you can see the doors are just resting on the frame. Today I will finish the legs/feet, hang the doors (scored some aluminum piano hinge from the scrapyard for under a dollar), and start skinning it with the 1/8" aluminum. Hoping to get the deck finished today so I can start on the flotation pods tomorrow.

Now to figure out what kind of tugs/latches I want for it. I would prefer a latch to prevent the doors from rattling and to compress the hatch seal I'll be using. Thoughts?

 

[orion_134]

Here's the latest:
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/2012-02-25150600.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/2012-03-06114409.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/2012-03-06160705.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/2012-03-06181445.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/2012-03-08130946.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/2012-03-08183123.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/2012-03-09155433.jpg
https://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j383/Orion_134/2012-03-09155417.jpg

 

[hsiftac]

Those are some big pods, have you had it out yet since adding them? I'll bet they make a big difference