Tracker Aluminum Flooring Questions

[BIRD2173]

Looking to get this project going rather quickly and wanted to see if the brain trust here can help. I’ve got everything torn out and cleaned up and closed foam cut in between the ribs, but before I buy/do the wrong thing I figured I’d ask first.

1-What is the best thickness for the aluminum floor? I’m a big fella and don’t want any warping/sagging between ribs in the long haul If possible. .100? .125??

2-I saw somewhere a while back folks were using something between the ribs and aluminum flooring to stop vibration. Can’t find it now… what is recommended for that?

3-I have minor pitting in the interior rear of the boat. Do I need to clean it any certain way (vinegar and copper mesh pad) and or coat it before installing this floor?

Trying to do the best I can before the install, so any help is greatly appreciated. Feel free to answer 1 or all 3!

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I'm guessing that your hull thickness is around 0.100" and ribs on 16" centers. My guess is that you can feel that flex when you stand on it. For no flex, 1/8" or more, but will add weight.

I went with foam boards between ribs to fully support the floor, which is only a mear 0.040" in my build. The thin aluminum was easier for me to work with, given my lack of tools to work with heavier. The existing floor is the support system, and the top alum is to protect the foam and hold it in place if capsized. Some pictures: HERE

No matter what thickness you choose, I'd use the foam boards for the additional support.

 

[airshot]

The ony issue I see with aluminum is...how easy to remove when you need to?? I have always used plywood for that reason...sooner or later the floor needs to comevup for cleaning, lost lure, credit card slipped into a crack or keys went under in a crack you didn't realize they would fit into..as you might guess, I speak from experience and not always the fun kind. The insulation board between ribs where the floor is flat works great and will support a lot of weight....so does a piece of 1/2" extra ply plywood !!! Doesn't weigh much either.....in fact have used 3/8" plywood 5 ply material over a insulation board supported flat floor and no noticible flex with a 200 lb guy jumping up an down.. Your boat, your call, but at least consider what the furure might bring...plywood is easier and cheaper than aluminum to work with....just a hint....lol...

 

[MrGiggles]

The ony issue I see with aluminum is...how easy to remove when you need to?? I have always used plywood for that reason...sooner or later the floor needs to comevup for cleaning, lost lure, credit card slipped into a crack or keys went under in a crack you didn't realize they would fit into..as you might guess, I speak from experience and not always the fun kind. The insulation board between ribs where the floor is flat works great and will support a lot of weight....so does a piece of 1/2" extra ply plywood !!! Doesn't weigh much either.....in fact have used 3/8" plywood 5 ply material over a insulation board supported flat floor and no noticible flex with a 200 lb guy jumping up an down.. Your boat, your call, but at least consider what the furure might bring...plywood is easier and cheaper than aluminum to work with....just a hint....lol...

I'm convinced that my long all around light fell down into the drain channels somewhere on my boat while I was putting the floor in. I never found it when the rebuild was done.

I'm not pulling up the floor and console for a $30 light, the next guy that replaces the floor may find a surprise under there.

 

[thill]

Make your floor tight, so you can't lose stuff! But I guess if you go with vinyl, that might not be as easy as with carpet.

 

[moedelawn]

I used .100 aluminum for my floor and I still have some flex with 12" centers. If you have 16" centers you definitely need foam. I made a template using cardboard and made it as tight as possible. I used a foam single side adhesive from lowes on the top of the ribs. #10 stainless screws to hold it down.

 

[poorthang]

foam in my floor. very thin aluminum one piece sheet over foam is very solid in feel and easy to remove for above reasons.

 

[TMO8853]

As everyone mentioned, make sure you put the rigid insulation foam in between the ribs. It's the pink stuff that comes in 4x8 sheets if buying from Home Depot (at least in my area).

.090 aluminum is a common floor thickness because it's also the common thickness that a lot of drop-in hatches are made from. You can then put the hatch right up to the .090 deck and it's a seamless transition. This would only apply to a raised casting deck, but would still definitely work for a bottom floor.

Also, I would attach the flooring to the ribs with counter sink aluminum rivets. You drill your holes in the aluminum, then take a counter sink bit and counter sink the hole and then when you install the counter sink rivet it sits completely flush. That way, if you ever go to put vinly or turf down its a completely smooth surface.

 

[poorthang]

As everyone mentioned, make sure you put the rigid insulation foam in between the ribs. It's the pink stuff that comes in 4x8 sheets if buying from Home Depot (at least in my area).

.090 aluminum is a common floor thickness because it's also the common thickness that a lot of drop-in hatches are made from. You can then put the hatch right up to the .090 deck and it's a seamless transition. This would only apply to a raised casting deck, but would still definitely work for a bottom floor.

Also, I would attach the flooring to the ribs with counter sink aluminum rivets. You drill your holes in the aluminum, then take a counter sink bit and counter sink the hole and then when you install the counter sink rivet it sits completely flush. That way, if you ever go to put vinly or turf down its a completely smooth surface.

thats good info! i have been thinking about ripping the carpet out and going vinyl. thanks

 

[Still Afloat]

Is anyone having mold or mildew issues with the pink foam under their flooring? I was considering using it on my current project for added floatation. The plan was to attached it to the bottom of the new deck but, leave a gap between the foam and hull to avoid moisture retention. I’m sure what adhesive would hold up long term for an aluminum to foam bond.

FYI - I picked up a sheet of 1/8” diamond plate for the deck. Not particularly fond of diamond plate but the price was right and I didn’t want any wood in the boat. The weight is about the same as 5/8” Doug Fir marine plywood. As far as attachment/removal, the deck will attach to the ribs with rivnuts.