Trailer Bearings

[Cubman]

I removed my dust caps today in anticipation of buying bearing buddies. When I pulled them off, water came out (liquid on the wheel), and I didn't see much grease. I put a couple of pictures below to help, but it doesn't look like the camera focused well. Do I need to anything other that clean it out as best I can before I install the bearing buddies? The owner said he went through the bearings last year. Do I need to pull the bearings and repack them? Thanks for any help.

 

[KMixson]

Pull them and repack. It seems there is some rust in there. You need to clean that out or they will not last long at all.

 

[bassboy1]

I normally say pull them, clean them, inspect them, regrease, then install, but in this case I would skip the clean and inspect them (bearings) and go ahead and replace them. Get the races out with a brass punch, then clean the hubs thoroughly with mineral spirits, or a parts washer. Reinstall, and then install bearing buddies.

 

[bscman]

+1 on replace 'em.

You won't be able to get all the rust off the bearings...so they won't last too long.
They aren't too expensive, anyway!

Sure doesn't look like theres much grease in there....!

 

[SlimeTime]

Pull them & inspect them before spending $$ to replace them, just because the nut has some surface rust, doesn't mean the bearings are no good......unless you have a money tree (in which case PM me your address please) :mrgreen:

If they aren't flat/pitted, then clean (don't blow dry with compressed air), repack, replace seals (fill the inner lips with grease prior to installing them) & add your BBs. If you decide to replace....don't worry about using a brass punch on a part you're going to trash anyway.

ST

 

[sccamper]

Unless you trailor long interstate runs, Id clean, inspect and repack. If most routes take you interstate speed or long hauls, go ahead and replace them now.

I repacked my bearings in the fall, 1 race had a few little pits. Im still running them. Longest haul this year has been 40 mls at no more than 60 mph (55 speed limit), 2-3 trips a week for 2 months. Few other shorter trips too.

 

[dedawg1149]

i would replace them the cost of bearings vesus the cost of a break down plus replacing a axle is not worth the risk

 

[Don't Say]

Those look nasty! :shock: After seeing yours, I think I'll check mine.

 

[Don't Say]

How about some pic's after you repack them (Before you put the dust caps back on) that way if I see someone setting along the highway, I'll know it's not "Cubman".

 

[SlimeTime]

LMAO....the only rust you see is a little surface rust on the nut, washer & cotter key....and I bet it would all wipe-off with a finger.

Some of you guys ought to go look under your vehicles.........then run out & buy a new one :mrgreen:

ST

 

[dedawg1149]

you can clearly see from the picture were water sit in the cap what is a set of bearings 10.00 15.00 dollars its people that dont do things right that is the ones that break down .just cause you would run it that way does not mean it is correct way the correct way would be to check the bearing and races to see if there pitted .a once of prevetion goes a long way .sometimes the cheapest is not the best way.if it was me i would fork out the money and not be stranded

 

[Cubman]

Thanks for all the replies. Is it possible to pull the hub off with the rim and tire still attached? I have tried and tried, but I can't break the bolts loose, even with a two foot cheater bar. I have already used Liquid Wrench; it did not help.

 

[dedawg1149]

yes you can

 

[KMixson]

I can't tell from the pictures but I assume you don't have trailer brakes. If not, you can leave the rim and tire still attached to the hub and remove the assembly. Also, it would be wise to get the lugs off now while in your yard than trying to get them off later on while sitting beside the road with traffic going by at breakneck speed. Get a longer cheater bar. If they break off you can replace them now and not have to worry about running all over some little country town (probably on a Sunday afternoon) trying to find help if you break them off on the side of the road.
If you do have trailer brakes, you may have to back off the brakes to remove the hub. Sometimes a ridge developes on the inside of the hub that prevents you from removing the assembly without backing off the brakes.

 

[SlimeTime]

Thanks for all the replies. Is it possible to pull the hub off with the rim and tire still attached? I have tried and tried, but I can't break the bolts loose, even with a two foot cheater bar. I have already used Liquid Wrench; it did not help.

Pull the trailer to the closest tire shop or garage & have them buzz them off with an impact.....a shop you buy tires, or have mechanic work would be best, if they remember you they might not charge you.....if not, offer a mechanic $5 to buy him lunch for 5 minutes worth of "work"

ST

 

[Cubman]

Thanks for the tips. I am going to pull the hubs this weekend so I can check out the bearings, and find replacements if needed. On Monday I'll take the hubs and wheels to a mechanic I know to get him to take them off. I will let you all know how it turns out.

 

[Cubman]

I got a big suprise when I pulled the wheel off:

I had no idea it had brakes. The trailer only has a 4-pin connector, and when I looked at axle before I bought the boat, I thought they were just some kind of backing plates on the hubs #-o
The brake shoes look like there are a few new scrapes that have not rusted. Is there a way to adjust the brakes so there is more clearance between the drum and the shoe? I know it seems like simple stuff to most of you all, but I have no experience in this, and appreciate everyone's help.

I also purchased new bearings and races from O'Reillys; it cost me an arm and a leg. What is the best way to put the new races in? Should I assemble everything loosely, then tighten down on the castle nut to force them into place?

 

[bscman]

Definitely new bearings and races.

I usually use shucks/checkers/kragen and do their "Buy online, pick up in store" option. The order is ready in an hour if the parts are in stock, and the online prices are usually cheaper than in-store. Further, you don't have to answer the million questions they ask before finding your parts.
I noticed they usually have $5 off $25 order coupons online as well.

Use a brass drift to install the races--the brass won't damage the race.
Otherwise, use the back side of the old race to drive the new race in place--tap evenly around the circumference with a hammer until FULLY seated.

Do NOT use the castle nut to try and seat the race...you'll crush the bearings or damage the race.

 

[SlimeTime]

If you try & use a brass punch, you'll have little luck because you'll be driving them in crooked. Use a large socket of similar size & a block of wood if you don't have a shop press available. You need to drive them in evenly.

Spend at least 10 minutes per bearing while packing them.........

ST

 

[Cubman]

When I put the left hub back on, I noticed it is dragging on the brake shoes. Can I adjust the brakes for more clearance between the drum and pads? I was researching it on google, and it said to turn the star wheel. Is this the star wheel?