Transom support Braces / Bracket

[WellsRobb]

Any recommendations on how to repair this transom brace? Best options

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Hard to tell from the pictures.
Is it still solidly mounted to the floor? Is the only issue where it bolts to the transom? Is it cracked?

 

[WellsRobb]

Hard to tell from the pictures.
Is it still solidly mounted to the floor? Is the only issue where it bolts to the transom? Is it cracked?

Yes it is still solidly mounted to the floor.

Yes bolts look rough and rusty. It is not cracked.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

If it just looks bad? I'd remove the old bolts and take a wire wheel to clean off the old paint and oxidation. Repaint and use new Stainless Steel hardware.

 

[DaleH]

Same, less I'd clean the tin with white vinegar, rinse, then dry and prime it.

Plus since going in there, I'd put adhesive-lined heatshrink over the SS bolt bodies and nylon washers under the bolt heads and SS washers (you want nylon against the tin) ... and that would be a permanent repair.

 

[airshot]

If it were me, I would remove the brace, bead blast ( because I have one) proper primer and paint. If you have acess to real SS screws the barrier isn't needed, but real SS can be hard to find!! Your fix will probably outlast the rest of the boat..

 

[WellsRobb]

Thanks. How much flex should be on the transom. It appears that there is a piece of 1/8 plywood missing from the transom

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

If it flexes without a motor mounted, it probably needs to be replaced.

 

[WellsRobb]

If it flexes without a motor mounted, it probably needs to be replaced.

It doesn’t do that but it appears that instead of single cut plywood, it was done with 2x4s.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

What size motor are you putting on it?
I prefer a plywood transom but if what you have is solid you should be good.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I took a better look at the pictures, and I see most of the bolts go through just one of the 2x4's. I don't know if that would be too much stress on just 1 board, if it had been 2x8 or 2x10 that might be different.

 

[WellsRobb]

I took a better look at the pictures, and I see most of the bolts go through just one of the 2x4's. I don't know if that would be too much stress on just 1 board, if it had been 2x8 or 2x10 that might be different.

15hp

At WOT the top 2x4 (which has just one bolt trough it in a weak spot) flexes.

 

[DaleH]

If you have acess to real SS screws the barrier isn't needed, but real SS can be hard to find!! Your fix will probably outlast the rest of the boat..

Well, you are not correct there, as any galvanic corrosion from the table of noble metals doesnt really care if the SS is 304 or 416L series, the tin will still give up it ions to the SS. What 416L will do over the significantly and exponentially better than the more common 300 series is that it won't bleed 'rust' stains ... as it is passivated.

And yes, for tins used in saltwater it does matter - insulate tin from SS however you do it. Even the US Navy does (they use TefGel as an insulator) and they buy only the best SS.

 

[airshot]

Saltwater is another issue. As a toolmaker, I have acess to real SS screws and bolts. My Dads old aluminum boat still has SS screws we installed back in the 60-70's and not one sign of any corrosion. Been using true SS screws for over 50 years and not one has ever corroded. Our shop has SS plates at the loading dock attached to an aluminum spacer, been there for 25 years and gets covered with salt in winter, the aluminum has some corrosion but everywhere, not just by the SS. You can look at all the charts you want, but my real life experiences show much different. Feel free to use and mount however the owner wishes, but in my 60 plus years, never had a single issue with true SS bolts and aluminum. My 1983 Starcraft has SS screws from the factory, going into aluminum with no issues. I don't think Starcraft would use screws that eat up there aluminum boats..

 

[LDUBS]

15hp

At WOT the top 2x4 (which has just one bolt trough it in a weak spot) flexes.

From the pic's it looks like the 2x's are stacked in transom. Almost looks like they would flex like hinge leafs to me.

I think you would appreciate the difference by replacing the 2xs with cut-to-fit ply. Use 2 layers of 3/4 ply glued together (or however many ply thicknesses are needed to fit you transom). You can use exterior grade ply from the local lumber store and save a ton of money over the cost of marine grade ply. You can also use 2x solid lumber . In my opinion, if multiple 2x widths are needed they should be joined together at the edges as opposed to being stacked and bolted independently to the transom.

Of course, I could be looking at the pics all wrong.

 

[WellsRobb]

From the pic's it looks like the 2x's are stacked in transom. Almost looks like they would flex like hinge leafs to me.

I think you would appreciate the difference by replacing the 2xs with cut-to-fit ply. Use 2 layers of 3/4 ply glued together (or however many ply thicknesses are needed to fit you transom). You can use exterior grade ply from the local lumber store and save a ton of money over the cost of marine grade ply. You can also use 2x solid lumber . In my opinion, if multiple 2x widths are needed they should be joined together at the edges as opposed to being stacked and bolted independently to the transom.

Of course, I could be looking at the pics all wrong.

Thank you for this response. I have the plywood on hand and will bondo epoxy resin after joining the two pieces together. My biggest concern is the bottom of the two transom braces. They are attached by rivets to the floor. Any ideas to fix after removing the braces or will I be lucky enough to not have to

 

[LDUBS]

I hate to refer people to the search function, but lack a better answer. In this case I would advise to take a look for the many transom rebuild threads here on TinBoats. Personally, I wouldn't remove the knee braces unless I absolutely had to. That is basically because of my inexperience bucking a replacement rivet. A lot of replacements involve removing or bending back that channel long the top of the transom so the new ply can be slid into place. Others have installed the replacement transom ply in overlapping sections. Hopefully, others can give you some better direction, including the advisability of removing and reinstallling the knee braces. Maybe post a pic further back showing the whole transom area.

 

[WellsRobb]

I’m adding these new photos. My plan is to replace the three 2x that are running horizontal. If I replaced those with plywood in a single cut, would I get a stronger transom?

 

[airshot]

Yes, plywood will give far more lateral strength than any 2 by lumber. Make your new plywood transom the total width of the transom if possible.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Do yourself a favor and replace the whole transom.