Transom

[Dennis Wilson]

I have made a lot of progress restoring the 1958 AlumaCraft Queen of the Waterways 14 footer. I have a plan to replace the seats so they look like the original design, and have removed all the decals and old paint. My neighbor came over to look and commented about the transom wood being pretty sad and if this was the original design.... I know the "interior" transom wood is correct; the question he asked was if the outside of the transom wood was correct..... what I need is someone who has a 1957 or 1958 boat to send me some pictures of the rear of the boat. I only have one brochure to go by, and it does not show a rear view of the boat..... I will attach a few pictures of what is there now... and it needs to be replaced.... so I just thought I would ask before putting it back the way it looks in these pictures. In particular, the outside wood piece.... Does anybody know if it goes all the way across the back of the boa like the inside piecet? or is what you see in the attached picture, the way it was originally? Any help/pictures suggestion welcome.... and appreciated!!!

 

[LDUBS]

That outside transom pad exactly as it should be -- they don't span the width of the transom like the inside one. Most of the wood transom pads are more rectangular than yours. I think the shape of yours is pretty cool. Of course, you need to seal the heck out of both the inside and outside pieces.

The reason for these transom pads might include adding strength, increasing the thickness of the transom from 3/4" to 1.5" for the motor mount, and to add more bite for motor clamps (and protect the aluminum).

 

[Wayne Roberts]

I have made a lot of progress restoring the 1958 AlumaCraft Queen of the Waterways 14 footer. I have a plan to replace the seats so they look like the original design, and have removed all the decals and old paint. My neighbor came over to look and commented about the transom wood being pretty sad and if this was the original design.... I know the "interior" transom wood is correct; the question he asked was if the outside of the transom wood was correct..... what I need is someone who has a 1957 or 1958 boat to send me some pictures of the rear of the boat. I only have one brochure to go by, and it does not show a rear view of the boat..... I will attach a few pictures of what is there now... and it needs to be replaced.... so I just thought I would ask before putting it back the way it looks in these pictures. In particular, the outside wood piece.... Does anybody know if it goes all the way across the back of the boa like the inside piecet? or is what you see in the attached picture, the way it was originally? Any help/pictures suggestion welcome.... and appreciated!!!

The outside transom wood were plywood on these.......about 1/2 thick. As you can see by the stain mine is the identical shape. I made a new one using the old piece as a template but used 3/4" white oak.

 

[Dennis Wilson]

You are 100% correct on the outside part of the transom being plywood and mine had a cork buffer between the plywood and the aluminum. The cork held up really well; the plywood did not. It is in quite sad shape, but usable as a pattern. The plan is to use cork as a buffer again because, honestly, I have it sitting here in stock and have no use for it otherwise so why not try it? I also plan on buying the cedar at Menards for the seats which are less than four feet across. So if I buy two four footers and one six footer, I would cut the six footer down to four and the remaining two feet by 12 inch board would then be used as the exterior wood piece on the transom. It wouldn't be a correct restoration, but it would sure look cool enough when matching the seats. Thanks for the picture on yours. I see, I think, that you have aluminum seats? Do you know what year your boat is? The seats are on hold for quite some time now, because the mirror finish that I have tried, is growing into a ton of work. I am 1/4 done and found that a 3M stripper device on the drill, what we called a "poor man's sand blaster" has worked really well to take off the basic oxidation so the buffing pads work faster and the results are just as good so I am hoping to get another 1/4 done today. I also need to work on the final step of the transformation of my kayak trailer back to a boat trailer. The mast with the winch is perfect, but there is no "stop" where the bow hits. So I will manufacture one this morning.... and the trailer will be functional and more importantly, done. As always, on all restorations, the key word is patience.... and make sure an intervention works without throwing in your billfold. Have a good weekend!

 

[sonny1]

Thanks for the cork idea. Believe that should help in cutting down vibration.

 

[Wayne Roberts]

You are 100% correct on the outside part of the transom being plywood and mine had a cork buffer between the plywood and the aluminum. The cork held up really well; the plywood did not. It is in quite sad shape, but usable as a pattern. The plan is to use cork as a buffer again because, honestly, I have it sitting here in stock and have no use for it otherwise so why not try it? I also plan on buying the cedar at Menards for the seats which are less than four feet across. So if I buy two four footers and one six footer, I would cut the six footer down to four and the remaining two feet by 12 inch board would then be used as the exterior wood piece on the transom. It wouldn't be a correct restoration, but it would sure look cool enough when matching the seats. Thanks for the picture on yours. I see, I think, that you have aluminum seats? Do you know what year your boat is? The seats are on hold for quite some time now, because the mirror finish that I have tried, is growing into a ton of work. I am 1/4 done and found that a 3M stripper device on the drill, what we called a "poor man's sand blaster" has worked really well to take off the basic oxidation so the buffing pads work faster and the results are just as good so I am hoping to get another 1/4 done today. I also need to work on the final step of the transformation of my kayak trailer back to a boat trailer. The mast with the winch is perfect, but there is no "stop" where the bow hits. So I will manufacture one this morning.... and the trailer will be functional and more importantly, done. As always, on all restorations, the key word is patience.... and make sure an intervention works without throwing in your billfold. Have a good weekend!

Mine is a 1950 model E Alumacraft 12 ft car topper per the old dealer catalog. It does have aluminum seats which of course get hot in the summer sun. The advantage in your wood seats is they they will be cooler to sit on and touch in the summer heat. Going to spay it zinc chromate green in October when our Florida weather cools off a bit. I have the wood transom pieces complete and ready to install after painting. I used the old inner transom wood and just restored it as needed with wood hardener, wood filler, etc and top coated it with 3 coats of Marine spar varnish. The 73 year old wood actually turned out really pretty like a piece of antique furniture. The outside piece I cut a new piece of 3/4" white oak.

Going to buy a new Continental trailer for it when done with center keel rollers as I do not have a trailer for it. A new galvanized trailer with the winch, winch strap, buddy bearings and new tires is $1,300.00 so not too bad i think. Not a float on though.........just an old fashioned crank her up style. Have a great weekend my friend!

 

[airshot]

Mine is a 1950 model E Alumacraft 12 ft car topper per the old dealer catalog. It does have aluminum seats which of course get hot in the summer sun. The advantage in your wood seats is they they will be cooler to sit on and touch in the summer heat. Going to spay it zinc chromate green in October when our Florida weather cools off a bit. I have the wood transom pieces complete and ready to install after painting. I used the old inner transom wood and just restored it as needed with wood hardener, wood filler, etc and top coated it with 3 coats of Marine spar varnish. The 73 year old wood actually turned out really pretty like a piece of antique furniture. The outside piece I cut a new piece of 3/4" white oak.

Going to buy a new Continental trailer for it when done with center keel rollers as I do not have a trailer for it. A new galvanized trailer with the winch, winch strap, buddy bearings and new tires is $1,300.00 so not too bad i think. Not a float on though.........just an old fashioned crank her up style. Have a great weekend my friend!

Easy enough to convert it to a float on...make your life easier !!

 

[Wayne Roberts]

True.............but that would make too much sense.........) I still use oars in lieu of a trolling motor!!

 

[sonny1]

Oars are on my to get list.

 

[Sea Antsy]

Thanks for the cork idea. Believe that should help in cutting down vibration.

? Humm... or HUMM.. ? really ?? cork on ONE side of the transom cutting down the vibration...I am having a hard time buying into this...

Does anyone else.. THINK, or FEEL that this works.. or OR
Does anyone else have a hand held vibration meter, and is anal enough to try this?

 

[LDUBS]

? Humm... or HUMM.. ? really ?? cork on ONE side of the transom cutting down the vibration...I am having a hard time buying into this...

Does anyone else.. THINK, or FEEL that this works.. or OR
Does anyone else have a hand held vibration meter, and is anal enough to try this?

To be most effective it seems the cork should be sandwiched on both sides of the transom. I think there is some dampening effect. Would I notice the difference? This is one of those times I would like to be wrong about something, but I don't think the difference would be noticeable.

 

[sonny1]

? Humm... or HUMM.. ? really ?? cork on ONE side of the transom cutting down the vibration...I am having a hard time buying into this...

Does anyone else.. THINK, or FEEL that this works.. or OR
Does anyone else have a hand held vibration meter, and is anal enough to try this?

You need not buy into this HUMM? It is my boat not yours for the anal part don't get me excited over nothing. Have you ever worked with cork? The insulation valve is extremely high. I believe it is a great idea and am going to run with it.

 

[airshot]

True.............but that would make too much sense.........) I still use oars in lieu of a trolling motor!!

Can't say I blame you on just a 12 footer, however, it would be fun watching you row while reeling in a fish...

 

[airshot]

You need not buy into this HUMM? It is my boat not yours for the anal part don't get me excited over nothing. Have you ever worked with cork? The insulation valve is extremely high. I believe it is a great idea and am going to run with it.

Don't know all of corks attributes so just throwing this out, would a thin rubber sheet be better/ last longer than cork for helping with vibration ??

 

[Wayne Roberts]

? Humm... or HUMM.. ? really ?? cork on ONE side of the transom cutting down the vibration...I am having a hard time buying into this...

Does anyone else.. THINK, or FEEL that this works.. or OR
Does anyone else have a hand held vibration meter, and is anal enough to try this?

Alumacraft built the boats with the cork liner between the wood and the metal. Even if it doesn't make an appreciable difference it would be the correct procedure for a factory like restoration.

 

[Wayne Roberts]

Can't say I blame you on just a 12 footer, however, it would be fun watching you row while reeling in a fish...

Haa haa now rowing then just reeling.....! But I mostly use a fly rod so no reeling involved in a catch as i hand strip the line in..........

 

[Wayne Roberts]

Oars are on my to get list.

For my purposes they work great and I have no need to lug along a heavy battery to run a trolling motor......works for me anyway and authentic to the boat's era of time.

 

[sonny1]

Don't know all of corks attributes so just throwing this out, would a thin rubber sheet be better/ last longer than cork for helping with vibration ??

Comparing cork to rubber is like comparing apples to oranges. My transom is real easy to replace so not worried about it. Looks like am going with a small 4 stroke outboard so the cork would be a real good idea. Mentioned in previous thread working with a local dealership on a fair price for a brand new 5 horse mercury.

 

[sonny1]

For my purposes they work great and I have no need to lug along a heavy battery to run a trolling motor......works for me anyway and authentic to the boat's era of time.

My boat is a light 14 foot Lonestar so if I get in trouble with a motor I know I can make it back with a set of decent oars. Found a set of really nice wood oars at a garage sell earlier today.

 

[LDUBS]

Would you seal the cork like you would the wood transom pad? The wine bottle corks seem to do fine. I wonder if sheet cork would absorb water.