Trex as a floor frame

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Rikster66

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14 foot star-craft . I'm installing a new plywood deck in my boat and was thinking of using trex on its side as the framing material instead of epoxy coated wood or cedar. Two struts running down the middle of a 54 deck should be more than enough support. Has anyone tried that before? I know it is heavy but it is only 3 8 foot pieces and I'm a a little overpowered to begin with.
 
I probably wouldn't do this. It's not really good for any structural situation. When it's used in decking, you need 12" on center instead of 16" because it will sag between the joists so easily.

Trex is basically plastic pieces smashed together. Plastic has a "creep" situation were over time, under stress, it can change shape with virtually no force. If you put it on its side, I'd be willing to bet that it will bow out sideways and make a "C" shape within a very short time, especially if there is any weight on top of it.

My father in-law used it for the railing for his deck because he felt it would be easier to maintain and would prevent splinters. In the end, it sagged so bad that it looked like it was melting off of the railing, plus it cracked pretty bad too.

You can try it, but I would make sure you can get to it to inspect and replace if needed.

Good luck!
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
How does it compare in cost to aluminum?

That is a good question, and thank you for your response t needs to be cut on an angle from 2 to 5 inches I'll see what I can find
 
kofkorn said:
I probably wouldn't do this. It's not really good for any structural situation. When it's used in decking, you need 12" on center instead of 16" because it will sag between the joists so easily.

Trex is basically plastic pieces smashed together. Plastic has a "creep" situation were over time, under stress, it can change shape with virtually no force. If you put it on its side, I'd be willing to bet that it will bow out sideways and make a "C" shape within a very short time, especially if there is any weight on top of it.

My father in-law used it for the railing for his deck because he felt it would be easier to maintain and would prevent splinters. In the end, it sagged so bad that it looked like it was melting off of the railing, plus it cracked pretty bad too.

You can try it, but I would make sure you can get to it to inspect and replace if needed.

Good luck!
My bro in law sort of did the same thing with the deck boards running on an angle against 16" centers, disaster! If aluminum doesn't work out I guess I'll just use a 2x6 encapsulated in epoxy resin and hope for the best.
 
Rikster66 said:
CedarRiverScooter said:
How does it compare in cost to aluminum?

That is a good question, and thank you for your response t needs to be cut on an angle from 2 to 5 inches I'll see what I can find
175.00 for a 2x5 x 8 and I'd need 3 that is a little to much for me
 
The stringers in my 17' Blue fin are simpy two pieces of bent aluminum running the entire length. Once you rivet the plywood on top, it's very stable and durable. The plywood rivets to the outsides of the hull to prevent side-to- side movement and the aluminum provides the vertical structure.

Are you able to get a hold of a sheet of aluminum to bend?

MVIMG_20200726_134055.jpg
 
If the trex stringers are supported on the bottom of the hull, they should work fine. Either scribe them to the bottom and cut them to fit or add supports that rest on the bottom along the length of the stringer. You may need to add some bridging between the stringers to prevent them from rolling.
 
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