Want to buy a boat but worried

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Waffles.n.Coffee

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Maine
I am looking at buying a boat. My first one. To be used for lakes, ponds and a local tidal river. Some of the areas are restricted to under 10HP so I am thinking I’ll look for a lightly used 9.9 for whatever I end up getting. I am making this thread to post up some questions I have through the buying process in one place. Any help or advice is GREATLY appreciated.

Was initially looking at a Jon boat. I will admit I became enamored at the the look of these boats and the customizations I see people doing online. I have been given advice that I should look for a V hull of some sort instead as the waters here in Maine as a Jon could be a bit rough and wet. So I have pivoted a bit and started looking at v hull aluminum boats in the 14-16’ range.

My use for the boat will be fishing with my wife or friend, bringing my three small boston terriers for a ride, maybe occasional camping gear, possibly some duck hunting and travel to hunting or trapping locations. I want nothing too fancy. Just a boat with an outboard motor I can store in my basement during the winter months.

What should I be looking for when looking at these used boats? Are there particular areas that are problematic? Or brands that I should consider more than others? Brands that I should not even consider?

I see some boats have foam encased within the benches or between a skin of the hull and floor. Is this necessary? If it’s not there should it be added if possible?

This is the boat I may take a look at locally that may fit my needs?

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That old Alumacraft is a battle ship, great boats. Most of those older tins are built very well.

At some point in the 70s, all boats under 20 feet were required to have flotation foam. It's a great asset to have, even if the boat is totally swamped it will not sink.

To check the hull, crawl under and look for missing or loose rivets, hull patches, corrosion, big dents, cracks etc. A couple missing or loose rivets is not a big deal at all to fix, but a long crack or a crappy patch can be. A water test is even better if you're able, on boats that are open like that, it's pretty easy to spot a leak.

You will want to check the wood in the transom. Obviously if the wood is rotten visibly then it will need to be replaced, if any of the transom screws are loose, that is a clue that the wood is soft underneath. Not a huge deal to replace, but it's something you should be aware of.

The trailer should be checked over as well, you can spend quite a bit rehabbing a clapped out trailer. Check the tires for dry rot (find the DOT date codes if you can), jack it up and spin the hubs to feel the bearings. Try to peek under the bunk carpet and see what kind of shape the bunks are in, as well as the keel rollers underneath and the general condition of the trailer frame and crossmembers. If the trailer needs a little work, that's fine but the price needs to reflect it.

Every state is different, but make sure the paperwork for the boat/trailer/outboard is in order so you can register them. My state titles all three, some states only title the boat, or just the trailer, like I said it all varies and you don't want to be stuck with something you can't use on public waters.
 
I use to live just south of a 9.9hp restricted lakes. Many of the old 2 stroke 9.9hp motors only needed a carb/jet swap to turn them into 15hp outboards. I would look for a 1648 riveted MOD V it will be more stable than a vee bottom at rest and will handle rough water better than a flat bottom. I use to fish and crab on the Chesapeake bay in a 1648 mod v we were usually the smallest boat out there and at times it could get a little rough but it got the job done. Just have to watch the weather and plan accordingly.
 
I'd look for something in a 14' (V hull) if your going to limit yourself to a 9.9. A 16 is not going to be happy if it's underpowered and a 12 is just too small for your stated use. As mentioned above, make sure you know what paperwork you'll need to register it and make sure that paperwork is in order. Nothing is more frustrating as a good boat you can't legally use. As for the boat in question, that motor looks to be over 50 years old. It may be OK but if it leaves you stranded with your family, you'll regret it. Personally, I'd look for something newer all around unless your wiling to become a student of old boat/motor repair. There should be some good deals out there this time of year.
 
Thank you all for the reply’s this is very helpful information. The motor is very old yes. Only 5.5hp and really not even something I want to factor into the equation as I have not intention to use it. Currently the boat and trailer is $1200 or best offer. I am looking to buy here in winter to try and find a good deal and have time to work on it if needed.
 
I had a 95 starcraft sf14. Great boat. Stable, deep 'V'. Foam under the seats. Nothing on the floor. Very low maintenance. Fished puget sound salmon for years and once I got the feel could really handle some rough water. If I still had it I would be repowering with 15hp 4 stroke . Honda's are pretty simple to repair and and quite reliable.
 

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I had a 14' AlumaCraft like that one with a 14 HP on the back. It scooted along real nice. Stuck an 18 on it and it almost seemed scary. Skittered around like a car on ice. I think a 9.9 would have a difficult time getting up on plane with more than one person onboard. With just me, an 8 year old and some gear I'd have to gun the 14 pretty hard to get on plane. I'm not sure a 9.9 would have cut it. Here's an idea for you. Instead of going through all the work and outbidding a 100 other guys for a 15 HP carb, and possibly some other bits and pieces just get a 15 HP and put a 9.9 hood on it! I know at least with mid 70s OMCs the hoods interchange.

Oh and BTW I paid $300 for mine with trailer in season. Surely that boat you're looking at is way overpriced for this time of year. I'd not go more than $500 if it was my money.
 
I had a 1994 and the hoods were the same, I bought new and the dealer sold me the 15 hp carb at cost...235 bucks but well worth it. The difference in power was very noticible. My 14' Starcraft deep V would plane with 9.9 but needed some room, with the upgrade carb it planed much quicker and would go almost 24 mph with a balanced load.
 
Another saying, I’ve an older motor but, it has low hours.

Equivalent to a used car salesman telling you the car was owned by an old lady that only drove it to church on Sundays.
 
I ran my alumacraft 1648 with a 20hp 4 stroke we ran 23mph with 2 adults I feel like a strong 15hp 2 stroke would be fairly close to that . It was a light riveted boat with no center seat. My buddy use to run a tracker 1542 with 9.9 merc on a restricted lake in PA and it would plane off with 2 adults. It was a very popular combo on that lake at the time. That lake now has a 20hp limit though and he runs a 20hp yamaha on the same boat and it moves.
 
I've had my 14' Lund V-hull since 2020. It is my first boat.

I wish it was a 16 footer. Not enough to make me unload it, I just wish it had the extra space.

Brand: I like Lunds. Over the past decade, I've fished at several different fishing resorts in Minnesota and Canada. Nearly all of those lodges use Lund boats for their clients. My own Lund has never leaked a drop of water, and it's 44 years old. Alumacraft seems to also be well thought-of.

Price: I can't talk to price in your part of the country. I do know that used boats have generally gone up in price since 2020. There's been a lot of discussion about that, but it seems to be very dependent on the region where you're looking. Don't get in a hurry; there will be others. Don't underestimate the power of $900 cash in hand for a boat who's owner has a starting price of $1200.

Paperwork: Documentation requirements differ significantly from state to state. Make sure you KNOW what your requires for titling and/or registration. If it was me, I wouldn't deal with a boat that doesn't have clear title/registration. In my state, the boat is titled & registered by DNR, the trailer is titled and registered by DMV. The state does not require titling of the outboard. However, at least one neighboring state requires titling of the outboard separately from the boat. Knowing what you will have to do to get the documentation squared away will preclude headaches on your part. Nothing worse that spending money on a boat only to find that the seller was being a bit dodgy, and it's now a large headache sitting in your driveway.

Modifications: I've seen many YouTube vids about mods to jon boats. I've looked at a lot for ideas for my own boat. I'm of the firm opinion that a good V-hull can be just as good a project as a flat bottom jon boat.

Good luck. Don't forget to have fun after you find the one you want.
 
You really need to know the laws/rules of both states if buying out of state. I bought mine from Colorado but live in Texas. Both very different from each other. The seller was very good and had everything in order already. He even towed it home (+100 miles) for me as I was going to rent a UHaul. It met all my requirements at a price I was willing to pay. 16' was my choice with a V-hull. 25hp Mercury two stroke. 1974 Mirrocraft and a 2002 engine. It was either very well taken care of or used very little. It was a boat kept at their second home in Colorado. I had all the maintenance items done along with putting the sea level jet back in the carb. Runs like new. I paid more than you though by 2.5x. I am happy with it.
 

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// random brain dump = on

Excellent replies! I wouldn't say that I'm hugely experienced with aluminum boats, grew up on Fiberglass, but here's what I noticed. That boat looks like it might have been stored under a carport or maybe covered at some point - I only see a few acorns in it. Down here, it would be full of acorns if it were just sitting out. I also don't see any waterline inside the boat from where junk clogs up the drain and fills up the boat. The dirt on the tires and seat puddles from rain say it's been sitting out lately.

I always hate seeing where a boat sat with water in it and potentially froze with water in it (water expanding into ice breaks things) but it does at least prove the boat was floatable... if it will hold water in it for any period of time, it should keep water out when it's on the water for a reasonable time. If it lived a covered life, it was probably better taken care of. The keel looks pretty good from the pics. I usually look to see if it's straight and not pounded flat from rough landings and misuse. That is kind of an indicator to me of how it's life was led. I would crawl under it and look for missing rivets and great long scratches / bends too.

The trailer shows signs of newer winch and / or strap and the wheeled jack and lights look newer too. I can see where it started to get power washed and then stopped - maybe somebody got bored with it and bought a new boat. The back story should be worth hearing. See if the carpet is peeling off the bunks or the bunks are disintegrating. I think I see trailer buddy bearings, you can get a bit of a clue if they are really recessed like it hasn't been greased in a while. They will be flush with the bearing cap when they are full, another sign of maintenance that is iffy. If the grease is brand new it says either putting lipstick on the pig or they took reasonable care of the boat. Recessed and black grease says lack of the same.

A 5.5 would likely not plane it even with zero load and maybe 11 or 12mph if it could plane it... you'd be sitting in the middle of the boat to get it to plane I bet. A modern 4 stroke 9.9 can be parts changed over to a 20 (!!!) a lot of times but costs 3x what the boat costs. I have been looking at the Tohatsu/Mercury models that use the same shortblock, pretty much the same engine with different fuel delivery. The cost to convert a 9.9 to a 20 on those motors is, not ironically, about the same as the original price difference and a warranty violation. The tag on the boat you are looking at would give you a model number and HP rating, which I suspect is 25-40hp. I am on the fence these days. I don't want a 50 pound toolbox to be required equipment for a fishing trip and the latest four strokes are not all that much heavier than their two stroke older brothers. Before I lost my train of thought there, a modern 9.9 four stroke is a big cubic inch motor that you can grow into much more if you get terribly bored with it (and have the wallet for it).

I'm in Texas and they are probably some of the most picky when it comes to small easily stolen watercraft titles. 500.00 fine for not having your boating card with you in a boat you are operating. They don't mess around. Texas has a web site where you can run the boat numbers for ownership. There are two places the titles must be signed, front and back. Make sure your paperwork is done according to your state. Sellers here frequently fail to realize it has to be signed in two places, and sellers are notorious for buying it, never transferring it into their name, and then selling it when the registration goes out. THEN you find out they never transferred it because the title was only signed on the front. Then you find out the original owner passed and Texas wants their tax money - they require it to be registered to every owner - so that gets messy. If there was a bill of sale with a really old title, it makes it even more fun. The newer titles include a bill of sale / assignment on the back. A trip to the parks and wildlife (where our titles get transferred, your organization may be different) to ask them exactly what it takes may be time well spent. The website here is pretty good, but the nice people behind the counter can give you the skinny and show you where most people fail. This is the longest paragraph because this is the ugliest part of boating down here. :)

The trailer tags show Maine, and I think they use MOSES for registration, you might be able to get some history / information from here:
https://www.maine.gov/ifw/about/commissioners-office/licensing-registration.html
Back to the boat, I think that may be an F7 or maybe an FD, probably 60's era from the stickers. I would take measurements from the boat and compare to the brochure to be sure, but it looks like an F7 or FD... either would handle a lot more HP than a 9.9, the FD holding much more than an F7. Try this brochure for a starter?

https://catalogues.brp.com/aluma-my67-catalog-enus.html
The last thing I would say is a 14 foot boat looks easier to handle by yourself. I fell into that thinking and then the wind came up and I was re-thinking a 16' boat. At my age, I'm starting to think any new to me boat will come with a 20" transom, more freeboard, and more motor. It's not to brag about how fast it is but I'd rather head to shore with a 30mph capable rig than a 13mph rig when a little squall blows up. I had a buddy who liked to take risks when he was in his 20's. Tied a milkjug to a 100ft line to the boat so he could find it later when it turned into a submarine. I do _NOT_ share that thinking. :)

All of that blathering out of the way, looks like it could be a neat boat! I would have no problems running a 20 on it personally whether it's a hotrodded 9.9 or whatever. If it's an FD it was tagged for double that. A good running 25hp JohnnyRude would probably make it quite sporty! The thing to keep in mind for me is - would I send my kid out in it alone? If you are thinking older good running two stroke, I'd guess a good running 9.9 would be okay with a light load and one person, if that is the lake limit. I'd be one of those guys putting 9.9 stickers on the cowl of a 15hp two stroke since they are mostly identical and visually the same. I don't run my stuff wide open all the time any way, but when I want it to run hard, I want it to be able to. The lakes I go on aren't HP limited but the newer four stroke 9.9 -> 20 conversions would have my attention if I did.

The pricing is not too far out of line with the last year or so's junk down here... if the boat was taken care of, I'd think it was worth it. Some guys (like me) will stop talking to you immediately if you low ball them on an OBO sale. A 500 dollar offer would piss me off and I would say "Good day." I wouldn't be insulted with a 900 dollar offer, but probably wouldn't take it. Come January 31 with outrageous property taxes due, I might consider it. YMMV...

OH - I forgot. When you look at all of these things and think "I can do this and I can do that" keep your available time in mind and consider whether it's worth more to start out with something to go fish or play on the water without having to work on it, or whether you want to walk by it and throw 100 bills at it all summer. For me it's really easy to bench build these things from a keyboard, and I like working on them but there are times where I just want to fill it with fuel and go and not have to worry about it. Good luck with your boat hunting!

// random brain dump = off
 
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Another saying, I’ve an older motor but, it has low hours.

Equivalent to a used car salesman telling you the car was owned by an old lady that only drove it to church on Sundays.
LOL! I haven't head that from a salesman in a while. I used to hear it a lot and I'd answer "Only driven by a little old lady to make withdrawals from the bank after church on Sundays? Did they ever catch the rest of her gang?" I miss those old guys. :)
 
I think a mod-v might also fit your needs. Not sure what your tidal river water is like where you are but you could find yourself in trouble with a loaded 16’ boat in current with just a 9.9. I think you need to decide what water you will primarily use the boat. That will make your search a little easier. When I’m looking for a boat I decide what configuration I want/need then I look at classifieds several times a day. You might have to expand your search area to several hundred miles. First thing I ask is about titles for both boat and trailer. Beware of boats with a bunch of mods already done to them. I’ve seen a lot of boats that were cobbled up by people trying to mod boats. Lots of hidden problems under some of those homemade decks. Try to find something as original as possible. Take someone with boat knowledge along when you go look at a boat. Deals are out there if you take your time.
 
Old boat owners' saying:

"Two feet longer won't make much of a difference."


(Often said as he's buying the shorter boat.)


Best wishes.
A lot depends on the boats other dimensions....I had a 14' tinnie, but it was really wide and deep !! This made it better than a skinny shallow 16' . Length isn't everything !! At least not in boats....lol
 
A lot depends on the boats other dimensions....I had a 14' tinnie, but it was really wide and deep !! This made it better than a skinny shallow 16' . Length isn't everything !! At least not in boats....lol
Completely agree I had a riveted flat bottom 1430 years ago that was as stable as a cheap canoe but I've been in a custom built 1452 mod v that felt like a barge.
 
That old Alumacraft is a battle ship, great boats. Most of those older tins are built very well.

At some point in the 70s, all boats under 20 feet were required to have flotation foam. It's a great asset to have, even if the boat is totally swamped it will not sink.

To check the hull, crawl under and look for missing or loose rivets, hull patches, corrosion, big dents, cracks etc. A couple missing or loose rivets is not a big deal at all to fix, but a long crack or a crappy patch can be. A water test is even better if you're able, on boats that are open like that, it's pretty easy to spot a leak.

You will want to check the wood in the transom. Obviously if the wood is rotten visibly then it will need to be replaced, if any of the transom screws are loose, that is a clue that the wood is soft underneath. Not a huge deal to replace, but it's something you should be aware of.

The trailer should be checked over as well, you can spend quite a bit rehabbing a clapped out trailer. Check the tires for dry rot (find the DOT date codes if you can), jack it up and spin the hubs to feel the bearings. Try to peek under the bunk carpet and see what kind of shape the bunks are in, as well as the keel rollers underneath and the general condition of the trailer frame and crossmembers. If the trailer needs a little work, that's fine but the price needs to reflect it.

Every state is different, but make sure the paperwork for the boat/trailer/outboard is in order so you can register them. My state titles all three, some states only title the boat, or just the trailer, like I said it all varies and you don't want to be stuck with something you can't use on public waters.
Fill it with water and see where your leaks are
 
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