Wards sea king aluminum boat

[uncndl1]

I inherited a Wards sea king aluminum boat (14 foot) that needs all the wood replaced (transom & seats) which I've begun to do.

I've begun cleaning up the aluminum.

And here is a test fit of the new transom.


I'll post a picture of the boat before starting soon (it's on another computer tucked away somewhere)
It's too cold out to finish the transom, so I've started on the three bench seats made of plywood (that were once covered with vinyl).
The foam inside the aluminum enclosures looks fine, but while I have them apart, should I replace the foam as discussed elsewhere?
I appreciate all your comments.
This is not a full boat project, so I hope this is the right section to post in.
Best regards,
Kris

 

[fool4fish1226]

:WELCOME: Thanks for posting we love pics :beer:

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

If the foam is the white bead type (open cell) I'd replace it with the blue or pink (closed cell) foam insulating panels. The transom knees have a very StarCraft look to them, StarCraft made boat for Wards.

 

[uncndl1]

Appreciate the transom knees pointing to Starcraft being the possible builder.
I've read through so many threads and pictures, but have yet to find those transom knees in 3's.
Yes, the foam probably is open as it's original and little beads do come off from time to time.
I'll read through as many threads on the closed foam available and look into swapping out the original foam for new & improved.
Best regards.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Appreciate the transom knees pointing to Starcraft being the possible builder.
I've read through so many threads and pictures, but have yet to find those transom knees in 3's.
Yes, the foam probably is open as it's original and little beads do come off from time to time.
I'll read through as many threads on the closed foam available and look into swapping out the original foam for new & improved.
Best regards.

Up until the late 60's early 70's StarCraft's had 3 knee braces.

 

[uncndl1]

If the foam is the white bead type (open cell) I'd replace it with the blue or pink (closed cell) foam insulating panels. The transom knees have a very StarCraft look to them, StarCraft made boat for Wards.

I'm getting 3/4 inch exterior plywood to replace the 3 bench seats.
The rear seat is the worse, lot's of wood rot:




Here's a block of foam underneath the bench seat:

Here's what the wood seat looks like underneath:

I'll have a look at the pink and blue foam sheets available while getting the plywood.
Thank you again for all your comments.

 

[uncndl1]

I found these 2 inch 4 x 8 ft. sheets at Lowes:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-250-2-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-R-10-Scored-Squared-Edge-Insulation-Sheathing-52DD/202085962

Will this suffice to replace the styrofoam blocks?
Should I glue the pieces together?

Any advice greatly appreciated. Most of what I've found on utube videos is the two part foam mixture, but nothing for my application of the chamber underneath the three bench seats.

I did find these EPS flotation blocks from this site, and want to check further into that route:
https://univfoam.com/floatation

Best regards

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

The home depot foam is what I've used. No real need to glue it together as long as it's trapped inside the bench seats.

 

[uncndl1]

Okay, wood cut to match seats and transom.
I've been told and also read to use either Spar Varnish or oil based porch and patio paint. Anyone tried either and have input on what worked for them?
Best regards,

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

There is a formula of Spar urethane, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirts that's said to work very well.
I myself have used high quality exterior flat latex paint on the plywood floor of my duck hunting boat. On my StarCraft runabout I used spar varnish to seal the plywood and then Rustoleum for the top color coat.
For the transom of my runabout I will probably try the Spar Urethane, Boiled Linseed oil and Mineral Spirts mix, all I will need to buy is the Boiled linseed oil.

 

[uncndl1]

Thank you for your input!
I will look for the Spar Varnish with an internet search. Home depot did not stock it while there this morning, but maybe it can be ordered.
Here's one recipe I found: https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/make-your-own-oil-varnish-blend/
I'll look around some more before deciding.
Thanks

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Thank you for your input!
I will look for the Spar Varnish with an internet search. Home depot did not stock it while there this morning, but maybe it can be ordered.
Here's one recipe I found: https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/make-your-own-oil-varnish-blend/
I'll look around some more before deciding.
Thanks

PM sent.

 

[uncndl1]

Since I'm just copying the wood bench seats, I decided to order new stainless truss head bolts to hold the wood down onto the top of the flotation chambers. I found this site and the prices seemed good to me, especially compared to the hardware store nearby:
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Machine-Screws-s/664.htm
The spar varnish is also coming in the mail, and then I can get started finishing up the bench seats and transom.
I might try the recipe passed on to me by
lckstckn2smknbrls in the above threads. I found the thread mentioned, but then lost it again.
From my notes, I think this is the recipe:
Transom Project & Notes
Simple to mix up and goes like this:
1 part Boiled linseed oil
1 part spar urethane
2 parts mineral spirits.
It is applied very liberally, until it starts to pool and extra heavy on all edges and holes.
Then it is allowed to cure for 48 hrs., 72 hrs. is better.
I'll post more pictures once i get further along.

 

[uncndl1]

I realize that most people are not re-foaming their bench seats but...I did. First off, make sure you have a good temperature and wear disposable gloves. I used the 2 part foam from us composites found here:
https://www.uscomposites.com/index.html
I read quite a bit of the notes people had posted here, and elsewhere. Temperature is very important. As this is a winter project, the company suggested warming the two part solutions in a bucket with warm water. I did NOT do this, and your results may vary. I found through reading that 0.5 cubic feet per pound would be achieved by adding equal parts of part A and part B, i.e. 16 ounces (1pint) each of A + B equals a foamed volume of 1 cubic feet. Remember that one pint = 473 ml. My seat boxes ( 2 out of the three) measure 7 x 10 x 36 inches. Multiply this together equals 2520 cubic inches, divided by the conversion factor of 1728 equals 1.5 cubic feet.
I warmed the basement apartment, and made a template/of the aluminum boxes with some luan for the two ends and the open area under the bench seat(s). Each of the two rear and middle seat areas were foamed first. I drilled out the brackets holding the wood bench seats onto the aluminum housing holding the foam. I calculaed that I would, ideally need 24 ounces of each part A and part B mixed together to make my floatation under the bench seats. I have two heaters running, and did not heat the two cans in hot water. I took 30 ml. of each part A and part B, mixed together and poured to make the two larger bench seat flotation systems. I started with 12 ounces of each, mixed well and found that almost 1/2 of the under seat area filled with foam.. It actually took closer to 32 ounces of each solution to fill each area under the wood seats. Your results will obviously be dependent on the temperature and how you mix things.

 

[uncndl1]

Pictures will follow shortly of the floatation chambers, seats, and transom...I cleaned up the aluminum floatation boxes under the wood seats with a wire brush and some sandpaper. Cleaned everything with Mineral Spirits and a rag before painting. It's cold outside, so used the basement with a heater running, just like for the foam project. Tractor supply had the Self Etching Primer. 2 cans was enough to coat the three floatation chambers. I'm going to let them dry overnight with the heater running, and will take pictures tomorrow. I'm going to just roll some Rustoleum paint on tomorrow after work, and will update with pictures then. Have not decided on the colour yet, but will probably be whatever is on sale at WalMart or TractorSupply. Might go with the gallon can for less than $30. I did find these links that have some good read for the Transom Cap which I'm going to fabricate after installing the new wood transom:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owners-groups-by-manufacturer/s/starcraft-boats/9944969-looking-for-a-source-for-the-thin-c-channel-aluminum-transom-cap

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/605109-1978-sea-nymph-ss160-resto/page5

 

[uncndl1]

I have a question on drilling the seat holes for the new hardware holding the wood to the float chamber brackets.
The bolts came out (6 each per seat) very tight, meaning once the nut was removed, the slotted screw/bolt had to be threaded out with a flat head screwdriver. My question is, since I'm basically copying what is/was there, should I drill the holes out tight in the new plywood seats, or should I oversize the drilled holes and use sealant on them as mentioned elsewhere? Previously ones last 46 years, but obviously would like to prevent water damage into the new wood.
Best regards, Kris

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

If you keep your boat in the garage the seat wood is the least likely to have water damage. You could drill slightly oversized holes then when your sealing the wood coat the bottom and sides then before you flip the wood put a piece of masking tape over the holes, then put a straw into what ever your using to seal the wood put your thumb over the straw and fill the bolt holes. Let it soak into the wood as you coat that side of the wood. Then stick the straw into the hole to remove the excess sealer. After awhile poke a hole in the tape and let the remaining sealer drain. You might have to do this a few times and then pass the drill bit through the hole for the proper size but it will seal the wood in the hole.

 

[uncndl1]

Here's a good review article on sealants used in boating:
https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2013/April/how-to-pick-the-right-sealant.asp
For the new bolts holding down the wooden seats to the flotation seats, I'm considering either the 3M4200, or butyl tape.
The above article references using butyl tape for above deck applications, and the link to purchase has some great pictures and information:
https://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
What have other people used when doing their wooden seats?
Here are the old and new floatation chambers...


Just need to get some warmer weather to clean up the transom and install the new wood.
Cheers

 

[uncndl1]

I'm trying to finish up putting this baby back together, despite it being so cold here in the north country. The new transom wood has been glued together, and I'm getting ready to water proof it next week. I have a question for anyone that might have insight and knowledge to the transom thickness and angle across the top.
What I'm referring to, is because the 0.080 gauge aluminum transom is slightly angled, when I attach the new wood I've fashioned, there will be a slight rise from front to back. I'm wondering if I should cut off this angle and make it somewhat "square or level" with how the boat will be in the water? Since the pieces I removed disintegrated, and I only had half of a pattern to work with, I can not appreciate whether there is an angle across the top. I also want the transom caps right and left with handles to fit properly as the holes for the hardware are shallow from top to bottom of the caps. Hopefully this makes sense, or I can re-explain myself if necessary.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

The only place I angled the top of my transom was at the top corners.