Wards sea king aluminum boat

[uncndl1]

Thank you for your reply. I know there are not many out there making a new transom for a 46 year old boat. I'm going on a business trip next week to San Diego and Long Beach. I'll stroll some boat yards and shops and try to get a feel for what was done back then. I'm inclined to take off some of the top of my new transom to flatten it from front to back, but will wait until I get back from the trip. I did find this posting on a similar boat that looks like mine here:
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?t=38239
Best regards to all.

 

[uncndl1]

Thank you again for all the great advice on the new wood going back into this old aluminum boat. My new transom is ready to drill next weekend. I settled on sealing the edges of the plywood transom with this product:
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97636&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=cpeskw&gclid=CjwKEAiAgeW2BRDDtKaTne77ghgSJACq2U4bjfPhRskDZPy7FbEWot5ogK9WvByNQk0kpbHH-zDkYxoCqP3w_wcB
I'm not sure if I'm going to "thin it out" after mixing the two part mixture. Depending on how far a quart goes, I might also seal up the new seats as well. I'll post some more pictures then during re-assembly and the final product. Once I drill the new holes into the new transom, I'll remove it once again and go into the warm and dry shop for some tweaks. I'm going to re-drill the holes in the wood slightly larger, and then seal them with the mixture above. I'll wait another week or two for that to cure up proper before putting on the final coat of varnish and/or paint/primer. I have not decided yet whether to paint it up or just put several layers of spar varnish on it.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Looks like it's getting good reviews.
I just mixed up a batch of old times sealer for my transom and some plywood seat parts.

 

[uncndl1]

Now that it's warmed up, I was able to do another test fit of the wood transom, and drill holes.
I need to clean up the aluminum and patch 3 holes that are 1/4 inch, along with several smaller screw holes that held the cap on that are corroded. I've done a search of epoxy patching, and other methods, and am leaning towards and easy mix epoxy patch material of 1:1 . Any advice on products? I found this and wondering if any one has used it?
https://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/paste-epoxies/pc-7.php
here is a video of how to use it. I'm interested in what others have used to repair holes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPDC7pX3AqI
I did some more research last night, and decided on PC-11 instead of the PC-7:
https://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/paste-epoxies/pc-11.php
I'll let you know how the hole patching goes...
Best regards..

 

[uncndl1]

I can't work on the transom until next weekend, so I started on the two side corner caps. They are very corroded underneath side, and I cleaned them up with scotch brite pad and CLR, but it needs something more before priming (at least the underside). It's stained with corrosion and from contact with the old transom. Here's a few pictures and any advice would be happy to have too.

 

[uncndl1]

I'm making slow progress, but the wooden transom has been sealed along with the seats, and it is curing in the basement.
My next challenge, and why I'm asking for advice is that the aluminum on the inside is very pitted around the holes that the bolts go through, as well as the holes I want to patch. All along the top edge there are small holes that the tiny screws held the transom cap on, and it needs to be sealed up with epoxy. I also have several holes that also need to be sealed up (not sure what they were for but don't need them).
I cleaned the area up real good with a wire brush, and have a heater in the boat pointed to the transom. My question is should I spray the self-etching primer first all over the aluminum BEFORE sealing the holes I want to plug? Or should I spray the primer on AFTER patching the holes with Epoxy?

 

[catfishjohn]

nice, made me smile,,, I just reinforced my transom last weekend on my 12' sea =D> king I bought with my paper route money in 1963 at the monkey wards store in Detroit. it took me three more years to save up enough for a 7 1/2 hp sea king outboard. still have it, but now run a 5 hp merc 4 stroke.

I also mounted one of those nice folding plastic swivel seats, and two rod holders on her last weekend.

I'm retiring the end of april , and that old boat and I are gonna put a whoopin on some cat fish, crappy, and bluegill,,,with a few wally eyes added in.
think I originaly paid $59.95 or something for that boat.
it cuahgt more then a few frog leg dinners, crawfish boils, and can't begin to number the bluegill and crappy it's brought home. duck hunting,,,muskrat trapping,,,it's been my buddy for a long, long time

oh, mines a flat bottom

 

[uncndl1]

Regarding the pitting around the 10 holes in the aluminum that the wood is bolted to.
I went ahead and patched it with PC-11 Epoxy, and then primed it for paint. Next time I post it will be of the boat ready to hit the water.

 

[Beerman]

So yours is a 70? I had no idea but mine looks the same. I used plastic deck boards for new seats, reinforced midspan with 1 x 1 aluminum angle. Before I put it in our 4 acre lake for the summer I plan on building a box in the bow for life jackets, and add some cup holders etc.

 

[uncndl1]

Cool seat mod! Did you seal the center of each seat to prevent water from going down the Crack to the foam?
Your bow storage project sounds great, keep us posted.
I'm hoping to put mine all back together at the end of April

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[uncndl1]

I finished putting the new seats onto the stock flotation chambers using 5/32 x 3/16 aluminum rivets with the old brackets.
I will have to resize the pictures once I get home from work and will post one then.
I also re-registered the boat and trailer for NY (we just finished moving from RI).
I have to remove the old numbers and registration decals.
Started reading and looks like I'll start with a hair dryer, and if I need a heat gun will try to borrow one.
For the adhesive I've found in my reading such things as: mineral spirits, acetone, lighter fluid, goo off, goo gone, wd-40, 3m adhesive remover, sticker off, and even easy off oven cleaner. It looks like the way to go is to mask off the area around where the numbers and stickers are, before using whatever.
Any first hand experience greatly appreciated on how you cleaned the aluminum off after getting things removed greatly appreciated.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

We used Zep chemicals "Big Orange" to remove the adhesive then denatured alcohol to clean off the Big orange.

 

[uncndl1]

Thanks for the update. I'll give the Zep a try after heat.
I do have some de-natured alcohol to try after all of that.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[uncndl1]

The updated seats are in place, waiting for new SS hardware

 

[uncndl1]

I finished what set out to do when I started my thread. I'll post a few pictures and call it a day.
It's obvious that the next project next winter will be to flip the boat and re-finish the bottom.
I also want to thank everyone who either have a thread/build of their own or added their 2cents when asked.
I appreciate it very much.

 

[PBRMINER]

Looks GREAT

 

[uncndl1]

Starting another project on the Wards Aluminum Boat.
Someone stole our outboard with tiller and I want to add this 1988 Yamaha Model: F 9.9 SG Code: 6 G 9 S with steering (see pictures).
Does anyone have a close up of how the steering at motor attaches to boat near transom? I need to fabricate a small bracket for the controls and attach the console but it looks doable. Any thoughts and comments appreciated.

 

[Crazyboat]

I did not read every reply here and I don't know if what I'm going to suggest is true or has been covered.

Should you not treat the wood along the stern prior to mounting it, so that both sides get treatment? Leaving the wood untreated between the boat and new panel will cause rot as water finds its way between the two parts.