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Wet Foam Question
- Thread starter Knapstacks89
- Start date
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Wet foam can add weight and worse, hold moisture next to the tin and cause or exacerbate corrosion. I wonder if 'gas' or some other solvent wouldn't disolve it for you? IF you had a way for the liquid goo to get out that is.
Else make a tool out of spring wire or something, and chuck up in a power drill and have at it. Hmmmmm, maybe a fiberglass driveway marker, sheared on the 'tool' end so as to cut, would work for mechanical removal of most of it? At least the fiberglass rod would bend to allow the tool to get in there ... pull stuff out with a shop vacuum.
Else make a tool out of spring wire or something, and chuck up in a power drill and have at it. Hmmmmm, maybe a fiberglass driveway marker, sheared on the 'tool' end so as to cut, would work for mechanical removal of most of it? At least the fiberglass rod would bend to allow the tool to get in there ... pull stuff out with a shop vacuum.
onthewater102
Well-known member
Gas won't do it - they use a 2 part urethane foam because it's solvent stable, so spilling a little fuel by accident won't compromise your emergency flotation.
You'll need to devise a mechanical means of removing it.
You'll need to devise a mechanical means of removing it.
Knapstacks89
Member
I’m thinking about using a Flex Auger Bit from Klein. It’s made for wood so I do think it will damage anything. Also some of the foam in there is not wet.
By Gawd of anyone ... I shudda known that #-o DUH on me!onthewater102 said:
gogittum
Well-known member
You're gonna love this......what I'd do, after having experience with a couple of slightly different problems, is just drill out the rivets and remove the ribs, one at a time. Clean 'em up good and re-rivet them back in place.
When I built the folding grab bar for my 16' tin boat, I had to remove the center seat in order to thru bolt the hinges for strength. Those were 3/16" driven rivets and I have no way to buck new ones, so I used pop rivets - 3/16" closed end rivets with steel mandrels that won't leak. They are extremely difficult to pop with the little hand poppers that come in the kits, but Harbor Freight sells a dandy heavy duty, 2 handled popper for $20 that handles them easily. Those rivets are "extremely" strong.
Then I replaced 170 rivets in the bottom that were corroded, all with closed end pop rivets, coated with 5200. No leaks in hull and it wasn't that big of a deal. After that experience, I wouldn't hesitate to pull ribs out.
Lining up the holes for the new rivets can be a pain, but Aircraft Spruce sells "Clecos" to airplane builders that are designed just for that. I ordered a dozen of them, and the special pliers, to help and, along with an awl, they made it simple. You have to shop a bit to avoid the multi-size packages.
When I built the folding grab bar for my 16' tin boat, I had to remove the center seat in order to thru bolt the hinges for strength. Those were 3/16" driven rivets and I have no way to buck new ones, so I used pop rivets - 3/16" closed end rivets with steel mandrels that won't leak. They are extremely difficult to pop with the little hand poppers that come in the kits, but Harbor Freight sells a dandy heavy duty, 2 handled popper for $20 that handles them easily. Those rivets are "extremely" strong.
Then I replaced 170 rivets in the bottom that were corroded, all with closed end pop rivets, coated with 5200. No leaks in hull and it wasn't that big of a deal. After that experience, I wouldn't hesitate to pull ribs out.
Lining up the holes for the new rivets can be a pain, but Aircraft Spruce sells "Clecos" to airplane builders that are designed just for that. I ordered a dozen of them, and the special pliers, to help and, along with an awl, they made it simple. You have to shop a bit to avoid the multi-size packages.
