whats the best Pour Foam? Other ideas?

[Asimon]

Hello!

I just picked up a 17' deep V and I just started to gut the entire boat. I started tearing out the old foam and wanted to know if anyone had any ideas to use in place of the pour foam. I that the best flotation to use or is there something else I should be looking at?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

Where is the foam at? I think there is a USCG code that says the bottom 4(?) inches must be gas proof. Above that styro is OK.
I used foam board in my boat. I'm banking on not having a gas leak while sinking . . .

 

[Asimon]

there is poured foam in the 2 back corners as well as down the center

 

[DaleH]

Call/contact these guys, it is what the Pros use: http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html

Tell them what you want to do and they'll help you plan it all out and select the proper density for your need. HEED the warnings about 'too much pour' into 'too small a place or outlet/escape hole', as expanding foam can and will blow apart the boat/bulkhead.

Meaning ... it needs to expand correctly, like steam ... capture it ... and whoa boy :shock: !

 

[Asimon]

Great! Thank you for that information. I will talk to them and see what i need for my boat and application.

I appreciate it!

 

[onthewater102]

It's easy to work with - just get some red solo cups and mix it in small batches. Markings stamped into the side of the cup make it easy to measure 1:1 ratios. You can keep pouring in the same area in ~20 minute intervals. You'll quickly get a sense for how much volume can be filled from a single pour.

 

[Asimon]

It definitely looks like it’s the way to go. I’m gonna order from them and use their product.

 

[satx78247]

DaleH,

FYI, I called the "foam people" & talked for a few minutes to a NICE guy. = I will buy my foam for the sub-floor floatation of my "new to me" 1973 STARCRAFT SUPERSPORT 16, that I'm planning to remodel into an open saltwater fishing machine.
(I'll use "semi-rigid" BLUE sheet insulation for under the gunnels, instead of poured foam.)

BEING POLITE pays dividends when "buying time" comes for a new customer.

yours, tex

 

[ericman]

I strongly advise against the use of poured foam in the bottom of the boat, UNLESS you can prevent the foam from going to the center bottom of the V. My Crestliner has poured in foam in the 2 side compartments and nothing down the center. The hull is still clean. EVERY boat that I've ever dealt with that had the entirety of the floor filled with poured foam had water trapped, which caused massive amounts of oxidation. 2 of the boats were so pitted it looked the planetarium ceiling. Poured foam is also expensive. You can buy blue or yellow or pink foam sheets at any hardware store and cut them with a fillet knife and stack them up in the compartments and do so in a manner that they don't press right against the hull. This is much cheaper, less risky, and less messy.

Just my opinion though as the guys at US Composites will tell you otherwise because they stand to make money from you.

And I buy from them all the time because I make foam duck decoys.

 

[LDUBS]

You can buy blue or yellow or pink foam sheets at any hardware store and cut them with a fillet knife and stack them up in the compartments and do so in a manner that they don't press right against the hull. This is much cheaper, less risky, and less messy.

I tend to agree. In an enclosed area I would opt for stacking true closed cell foam sheets (like styrofoam) over two-part expanding foam whenever possible. Besides the issues you mention, it will make life a lot easier down the road if the area ever needs to be accessed.

 

[450clown]

I strongly advise against the use of poured foam in the bottom of the boat, UNLESS you can prevent the foam from going to the center bottom of the V. My Crestliner has poured in foam in the 2 side compartments and nothing down the center. The hull is still clean. EVERY boat that I've ever dealt with that had the entirety of the floor filled with poured foam had water trapped, which caused massive amounts of oxidation. 2 of the boats were so pitted it looked the planetarium ceiling. Poured foam is also expensive. You can buy blue or yellow or pink foam sheets at any hardware store and cut them with a fillet knife and stack them up in the compartments and do so in a manner that they don't press right against the hull. This is much cheaper, less risky, and less messy.

Just my opinion though as the guys at US Composites will tell you otherwise because they stand to make money from you.

And I buy from them all the time because I make foam duck decoys.

My crestliner also has the foam in the aft corners....i was leaving my boat outside...I got it inside it took about 3 weeks for water to drain out of the foam....Haha it's gotta go! Also, the foam upfront is wrapped in plastic, it's like they lined the area and then poured the foam over the plastic, but it's all completely dry

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk

 

[WhopperPlopper]

It's easy to work with - just get some red solo cups and mix it in small batches. Markings stamped into the side of the cup make it easy to measure 1:1 ratios. You can keep pouring in the same area in ~20 minute intervals. You'll quickly get a sense for how much volume can be filled from a single pour.

Will poured foam melt 2-4mil plastic if I lay it into the compartment I wish to pour foam into? Just thought it would be great to put plastic down, pour foam and then fold the plastic at the top/tape it or whatever to keep any/all water or gas out...

 

[onthewater102]

That was exactly what I did with my 16' build and it worked perfectly. No, it doesn't melt the plastic. It gets warm, but not so warm that you can't ever put your hand on it, certainly not hot to the point of melting plastic.