I'm curious why the HP ratings are always lower for a tiller as they are for remote? I've thought about weight or maybe balance? Most boats mount the consoles right where you would sit if you were running a tiller so that doesnt make sense?
Johny25 said:The two reasons I know of are weight distribution and torque of the motor. Console type boats usually have the console forward of where you would have to be to operate a tiller style motor. And really I have never seen a console as far back as to where you could run a tiller, although I am sure someone has probably made one like this. With the console and weight being further forward it changes the C of G of the boat for the operator. Take a full throttle turn at the helm of a console boat and then try one at the tiller position, a lot more force and chance to throw yourself out in the tiller seat.
Then you have the torque of the motor. Good example is a lot of tins are rated 15hp tiller but 25hp console. Overcoming the torque slap of a 15hp motor at say 18-20mph is a lot easier than overcoming the torque slap of a 25hp motor at 25-28mph. I used to let my wife operate my boat with the 15hp on it but now that I have a 30hp on it there is now way I will let her run the boat. It is just not safe for her given the inexperience and lack of upper body strength to overcome the torque of the engine. I have come very close in choppy water and high winds to losing control of my boat when running WOT...... and I am not a weak man by no means. The speed at which things can and do go wrong increase exponentially as horsepower and speed go up on a tiller motor. A steering wheel makes it far easier to overcome these dynamics given that you can have 2 hands on it and it is in front of you. And that is my 2 cents on the whole theory :mrgreen:
Definition of "torque slap" (I made this term up FYI)...... The bigger the motor and faster you travel in the water the harder the motor wants to slap to the side or direction you aim it. Possibly causing you to lose control.
Johny25 said:Console type boats usually have the console forward of where you would have to be to operate a tiller style motor. And really I have never seen a console as far back as to where you could run a tiller, although I am sure someone has probably made one like this. With the console and weight being further forward it changes the C of G of the boat for the operator.
earl60446 said:Now that we have a name for it, "torque slap" can be pretty much nullified by moving that little rudder doohickey right above the prop and below the cavitation plate. I have mine adjusted to provide almost no "TS" when I am on plane moving about 22-26 mph, makes for a comfortable cruise and safer too. Keeping the side to side steering a little firm helps too, especially on a tiller.
Looked it up, "rudder doohickey" = trim tab
Tim
BLKLAB said:Johny25 said:Console type boats usually have the console forward of where you would have to be to operate a tiller style motor. And really I have never seen a console as far back as to where you could run a tiller, although I am sure someone has probably made one like this. With the console and weight being further forward it changes the C of G of the boat for the operator.
I can understand the weight distribution reason. However, I'm talking of jon boats where all they do is rivet a console to the side of the boat and you sit on the same bench that you would sit on to run the tiller. They put the remote steering in and now the boat is rated for an additional 20 HP. I dont understand the reasoning behind this?
TNtroller said:can someone explain to me how the gator guys in Swamp People have 90's, 115's, etc, and they are tillers??? They don't seem to have any trouble in handling the boats on plane, dont see 'em getting shook all to pieces either. :?
TNtroller said:can someone explain to me how the gator guys in Swamp People have 90's, 115's, etc, and they are tillers??? They don't seem to have any trouble in handling the boats on plane, dont see 'em getting shook all to pieces either. :?
Looks to me like the same formula I posted above and people say is wrong.Zum said:I use(d)everything from a 2-60hp tiller.
Boats rated for a 35hp tiller;60 remote,I'm using a 30hp now,would go bigger but there alittle heavy to remove at the end of the season.
Heres a reply I stole from a walleye forum:
The CG formula to calculate the HP rating (remember the regs apply to boats under 20ft in length- the mfgs determine their own limits on 20+ boats but am sure their ins liability carriers undoubtedly have a big say) the formula is:
factor = width(in feet) x length then this "factor" determines the formula- to use- if the factor is more than 52.5, which is any boat more than 4' beam and 13' plus length; then formula is:
(you can raise hp to next multiple of 5)
If boat has remote steer and at least 20" transom, (2 x Factor - 90 = HP) Exmple 18.3"
If no remote steer OR transom less than 20in,
(0.8 x Factor - 25 = HP)
Width is maximum transom width in feet excluding handles, attachments and extensions, If boat does not have a full transom, th transom width is the widest beam in the aftermost quarter length of the boat.
Example- Remote steer- 96" width(8') 18' 3" length
8 x 18.4 = 147.2 factor --- (2 x 147.2 -90 = 204.4hp) or rounded up to 210 HP but no 210 HP motors so set it at 200.
Tiller- Same size boat- (0.8 x 147.2 -25 = 92.76hp) or rounded up to 95hp no 95hp motors so 90 rating.
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