Wiring Diagram help

[FLbassBLASTER]

I know I'm probably beating an already dead horse further to death, but I work a lot and don't have a whole lot of time to browse this forum. If you're one of the seasoned vets I know are here, your knowledge and time would be greatly appreciated by this first time builder.

Ok, so I'm doing a 1432 conversion, and I want to run a fairly basic electrical system. At first, the boat will be a slow moving electric (until I can afford a decent little outboard), but I have a number of small honey holes I can get to where that's not a problem at all. Down here in FL, those tiny <100 acre bodies of water are where the monsters lurk.

Electrical system (A) will be composed of :

-Group 29 deep cycle battery
-6 gang switch panel w/fuses https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XADSUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-Anchor Light
-Nav Light
-Deck Lighting
-Bilge Pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPU0C5E/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-Dual 12v outlet (One cig outlet on one side, 2 usb outlets on the other)
-Humminbird PiranhaMAX155

Electrical system (B) will be composed of :

-Minn Kota Endura C2 (30#, 30")
-Group 27 Deep Cycle



For the purposes of this diagram, I'm just going to say that each of the items in (A) are going to use a 5 amp fuse... Once I've got everything in my hands, I'll be able to see exactly what fuses to put in.

I'm going to build a small side panel console deal to house my switch panel and outlet, and for now at least, both batteries will be in the stern.

If my fuses add up to lets say 27 amps, and that's how it will be staying, do I need a circuit breaker that's close to that (30) or could I get away with something bigger (50) that I've got laying around?

When calculating the length of a run, is it double the length of the wire? From what I'm looking at, I think I should be ok with 16AWG Marine Tinned Wire for (A). The furthest thing from the battery will be the Anchor/Nav lights, and that'll be a total distance of about 15', so would the run be 30'?

For (B) Initially, the trolling motor will be transom mounted, and not very far from the battery at all, thus not needing any additional wire. Once I get my outboard, the trolling motor is going up front. I know thats still a ways down the line, but would 4AWG be good enough to have my trolling motor 15' from my battery? Obviously going to have a CB included as well.

This is my first shot at wiring anything like this, so any advice or constructive criticism will be greatly appreciated!

 

[bamabill]

I'll be following because I need basically the same thing. Are you going to put your batteries on a switch, and provisions for adding electric start engine? Another member left me a diagram down on my thread, "complete diagram"..

 

[FLbassBLASTER]

At least how I've got it figured now, no switch. I'm going to basically have 2 separate systems, but if I could figure out what having everything connected and on a switch would entail, and what benefits that would provide, I'd definitely consider it.

As far as capability for adding electric start for my motor when I get one, that's also something I'd be very interested in. On the other hand, I'll be looking for a deal, so I wouldn't be surprised if I end up with a pull start (I dont mind having to pull if it runs!). If any of the vets have 2 cents on that one, I'm completely unlearned, so feel free to throw them in.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[mrdrh99]

Man... That's pretty much exactly what I'm running on my boat, that diagram makes it so much easier to get a grasp on what to do..... What gauge wire do you plan to use on all the smaller accessories? I'm using 8 on my 45# TM. Thinking 12 on everything else.

 

[FLbassBLASTER]

My hope is that my diagram is correct, and can simplify the process for the next guy after me.

I plan on using 4 for the trolling motor once I get an outboard and have to move it up to the bow. From what I can figure, that will be more than what's needed, but I'm ok with that. All the smaller components are pretty low amperage, so I'm going to run 16 on all the small stuff. My center console deal is going to run between where the middle bench was, and the back bench is. With that lay out I should be able to somewhat minimize the length of the runs.

I'll get some photos up later on this afternoon/evening of where I'm at. I'll probably have to start a new conversion thread, I'll link it to this one once I have it up.

 

[RivRunR]

Your diagram looks good to me, but your fish finder doesn't need to be on the switch panel, it has it's own on/off, and some finders really don't like it when you shut them down without going through their shutdown mode. You could just run an in-line fuse on it.

Your breaker should be within 6 or 7 inches of the battery. I've seen one somewhere that actually mounts on the battery.

I used 14 AWG, but 16 should be ok for your "A" circuits. And yes, "length of run" is the full circuit length (pos + neg).

 

[2sac]

The wire size and breaker size needs to be sized for the load. If 27 amps is your total load, then you would size the wire and breaker going from the fuse block to the battery to 30 amps. The circuit breaker/fuse is to protect the wire. If you wanted a 50amp breaker, the wire would need to be sized for 50 amps as well. It's really overkill unless you plan on adding more loads in the future.

 

[FLbassBLASTER]

Good to know guys, thanks!

Wire and some other goodies should be here tomorrow or Friday, so I'll be wiring this weekend.

 

[mrdrh99]

Does the length of run on the negative matter? From bilge to busbar, etc?

 

[Skiffing]

^^^
Wire from battery + to battery - is used to calculate voltage drop / wire size requirement.

So, yes - the distance matters, but not because it is negative or positive - just that it is part of the circuit.

 

[mrdrh99]

OK, I'll use a 10g wire then.

One more question.... If I have a switch panel with individual fuses do I need the 30a circuit breaker? Or will the smaller fuse trip before the cb?

 

[2sac]

A 30amp breaker will protect the wire between the battery and the fuse panel. The breaker should be located as close to the battery as possible

 

[mrdrh99]

OK thanks

 

[FLbassBLASTER]

Ok guys, so I got my switch panel and wire in... It's the Seasense model I've got linked above.

It says on the packaging that it's 7 amps per circuit, but the fuses in it are 10. Go figure. I already switched out the fish finder and bilge pump fuses to the right ones (1 and 3 amps respectively). I went ahead and started wiring up what I could, installing a bus bar for the negative side of things right by the battery. I have a short length of 10 AWG going from the battery (when it's time to power everything) to the first post of the bus bar, then all the negatives from my electronics to the rest of the posts. Is this how it's supposed to be wired? I'm still waiting on my lights and 12v outlet so I don't know their amperage yet, but I'm thinking that my total amperage on that system is going to be pretty low... maybe less than 20. I used a piece of 3/4 PVC as a conduit between the back compartment and the middle of the boat.




At this point, I'm waiting on stuff to get in to finish up this wiring, and hopefully everything goes well!

I'm going to make an entire conversion page about it, but I'll touch on the project briefly. It's my first build, and to be honest with you, I just kind of want to get it banged out quickly. I'm not being the perfectionist I can be, because I already know I'm going to end up selling it and doing it again with a bigger boat and a bigger budget in less than a year.

 

[FLbassBLASTER]

This is what I was talking about when I said monsters are in the small waters! The lake behind my house is probably about 5 acres, and this 16.5 inch speck hit a chatterbait just before dark. I really wasn't expecting that!

 

[RivRunR]

That doesn't look like a typical ground bussbar. Unless there is metal (or wire) connecting all of the top posts together, all you've grounded is the post directly below where your 10 AWG comes in. You could turn it into a bussbar by running jumper wires between each top post, like from 1 to 2, 2 to 3, etc., but that might be a PIA.

Usually they look like this, where you connect your battery lead(s) to the larger post(s) on the end(s), and your accessories to the smaller posts in the middle:


Oh, and nice fish!

 

[FLbassBLASTER]

Thanks!

If I end up going that route instead of getting a new one, would I leave the Neg 10 AWG from the battery where it is, and then add jumpers from post 1 to 2 on top of the 10AWG, 2 to 3, ect? I wasn't sure if that was the right type of bus bar when I got it, part of the reason I asked. I do have enough wire and lugs laying around to do what you're talking about, so I may just give that a shot rather than drive my happy *** anywhere.

Just out of curiosity, wouldthis work?

 

[Skiffing]

^^^
Yep. Use jumpers.

 

[scrooster]

Thank you for the informative thread. Subscribed.

 

[nowgrn4]

My "Hillbilly" rewire is absolutely bulletproof and very basic(cheap). I bought 4 of these https://www.wiringproducts.com/plas...-toggle-switch-flat-terminal-spst-on-off.html to switch the front running light, anchor light, bilge pump and livewell pump. I bought a box of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-hhf/overview/ for the fuses. My hot (+) 10 gauge runs from the battery to a stainless bolt and ny-lock nut. The hot wire and all fuse holders are on this bolt with soldered ring connectors and then tightened down together with the nut to make a hot buss. Fish finder and accessory plug are unswitched and on this "Buss" also and then the bolt "Buss" wrapped in electrical tape. Same "Buss" bolt system for all the grounds. All waterproof fuse holders are marked with a silver sharpee with their circuit; FF, AP, BP, LW, AL and RL. Everything is neatly tie wrapped up high under the side console.

Rinky-Dink?