Wood for bunk boards

[Seth]

Do I need to treat the 2x4 with water sealer or anything before I cover them in carpet and install them on the trailer?

 

[Brine]

Assuming they are not pressure treated....YES.

Another member recommended covering the ends with liquid nails. I have no experience doing so, but can't see why it would hurt.

 

[Seth]

Would treated 2x4's mess up my hull though or will the carpet be enough separating them to keep from eating away at my aluminum hull?

 

[Brine]

Depends on who you ask :LOL2:

If the hull is riveted, you probably won't have carpet on them or long (assuming you use it alot) as most trailers I see in the parking lot have the carpet either ripped or hanging off the bunks. If It's welded, well it should hold up longer, but I assume that some of the corrosive properties could still weep its way from the carpet on to the hull. If you have paint on the hull, all the less likely.

My boat is riveted, and I used pressure treated on mine with rubber backed carpet, but I applied Steelflex to the bottom of the boat. I'm fairly certain I'll be ok.

If you haven't bought the wood, I'd say buy untreated and seal them yourself.

 

[Seth]

I haven't bought anything yet yet I'll go with the untreated. Should I use a water sealer or go with epoxy to waterproof the wood?

 

[Brine]

I haven't bought anything yet yet I'll go with the untreated. Should I use a water sealer or go with epoxy to waterproof the wood?

I would say personal preference as well as how often the boat is used and where it's stored. If you have plans on doing any decking in the boat with lumber or plywood, I would use one product on both just to save on expense. I know that folks have used the same sealer they put on their decks, just for that reason. As far as I can tell, the wood will outlast your carpet regardless of what you apply, and I assume once you've had to replace the carpet on the bunks a few times, it's probably worth replacing the bunks considering how inexpensive (2) 2 x 4's are. I think I would go with any deck sealer you may have on hand, or consider what else you may use it for and make your decision based on that. The investment in the bunks should be in the hardware you buy and should be stainless steel. This will save you money and aggrivation in the long run.

Also, do your best to get 2 pieces of wood that are free of knots (which should help with life-span) and are straight (which well help installing and using the bunks). For me, I had to dig through at least 20 boards before I found two I liked from Home Depot.

If you're going to staple your carpet onto the bunks, make sure to use either Monel or Stainless staples, and many people have recommended only wrapping 3 sides to the bunks to allow the water to escape easier.

Post some pics of the trailer when you can and let us see what you're working with.

 

[Seth]

I need to get some jacks and pull my boat off the trailer so I can paint the trailer as well. Once I get that done I will take some pictures.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I used cedar for my new bunks and I put on 2 coats of Thompsons water sealer.

 

[nbaffaro]

Just replaced mine this winter.

I made the bunk board and then took the whole deal down to the local river(more creekish) and launched the boat. Put the new boards on there in the parking lot. However, I was told that you are not supposed to do that.

I used pressure treated lumber. I had to wait a week to wrap them in carpet because they were still wet from the store. I would have choosen dryer lumber other wise. Where my boat makes contact with the bunk boards is smooth. So the rivits won't tear up the carpet. I used Loc-tight brand spray glue to get the carpet nice and smooth, then I used SS staples to hold down the edges.