Work Boat Project - possible?

[WaterJack]

So happy to have found this site. I've really enjoyed the conversion pictures, you guys have really done some nice work.

We work out of a 12' Jon boat with a tiller motor. We've had anything from 9.9, 15 and 25 hp on this boat in the two years we've owned it. It leaks and because of the way we need to strap it down to our trailer it's structurally deformed and all in all needs to be replaced.

We like the size and weight of this 12' Alumacraft boat but before buying a replacement I need to work out whether we can modify the new boat to better take the abuse we subject it to.

Here is what we typically carry:
- 2 men, one 200 lbs. and one 250 lbs.
- 150 lbs. tools
- 6 gallons fuel
- currently using a 15 hp motor

We are pushing floating boat lifts down the lakes, launching both the boat and lift from an aluminum i-beam trailer. We are limited to a 12' boat because both the boat and lift need to fit on the trailer we have.

Modifications we need to make our job easier:
- trailer winches, one on each side of gunnel to pull boat lift tight against bow of boat
- push knees to help keep bow stabilized
- reinforced gunnels to help eliminate flex when we strap the boat down to our trailer
- reinforce bow to stern to help eliminate flex when pushing

Looking for other ideas and overall comments on whether you think we should start working with an aluminum boat as a base to modify. Thanks in advance.

Here are a couple pictures to show how we use our current boat.

 

[Jonboat Jerry]

Wow, a "Working Boat". Around these parts (west coast of Fl), most the dock builders
put the motor and tools directly on the dock itself with a removable bracket and take it where ever.
It does require a long PVC tiller extension. This would let you use the boat for fishin'!
I have also seen a rare few being towed but none being pushed like a barge.
Have you considered either of these options?
There are some very knowledgeable people here, and I'm sure they will chime in with some good ideas on your
boat. Welcome to Tin Boats WaterJack! .......Jerry

 

[WaterJack]

Jerry .. thank you for your input.

I had a plate made that can be bolted to the c-channel on most of our lifts. The motor can be mounted to the plate. This works in some cases but requires I send a second employee and truck around to the job-site. Some jobs are 5 minutes away by water and 45 minutes by road. Logistically it doesn't work in most cases.

Pushing works better than pulling for what we do. We push from the back and drive it into the slip when we arrive. It also keeps our load in front of us in plain view. These old lifts we often remove before a new one is installed are in varying condition and can be unstable.

Much of the abuse I've witnessed is caused by the ratcheting strap we use to secure this boat to our I-beam trailer. Solving that problem alone would go a long way in extending the life of its replacement. The push knees and ratcheting winches aren't a necessity but rather a 'would be nice-to-have' option.

 

[Jonboat Jerry]

Here is a pic of my project (page 4) that i'm decking in. The cross members and longitudinal braces have made this hull very stiff
for a 20' boat.

Bracing is 2x2 aluminum box tubing. hope this helps...Jerry

 

[olbrazosDon]

It looks like you are using one tie-down in the middle of the boat, you might think of using two, one at the front and one at the back where you have cross structure.(the bow and the transom) I'm not familure with the Monark brand boat but if you are replacing this one you might consider an all welded boat over a rivetedone. My $.02.

 

[olbrazosDon]

It looks like you are using one tie-down in the middle of the boat, you might think of using two, one at the front and one at the back where you have cross structure.(the bow and the transom) I'm not familure with the Monark brand boat but if you are replacing this one you might consider an all welded boat over a riveted one. My $.02.

 

[RivRunR]

It's a little hard to tell from the angle of the trailer pic, but could you mount an eye bolt to the I beam that is at the back of the dock (2nd from the front) and use a ratchet strap to the bow eye, plus 2 straps at the back to the handles like you'd see on a traditional trailer? Or get fancy and mount a winch to that I beam?

 

[Ranchero50]

Pull vs. push, get some 2x4's for the hull to sit on while trailered and the correct straps for it.

Professionals at this or just guys moving docks?
Jamie

 

[WaterJack]

Pull vs. push, get some 2x4's for the hull to sit on while trailered and the correct straps for it. Professionals at this or just guys moving docks? Jamie

Jamie ... Lifts are loaded onto and off of the trailer, they are often different lengths and have tanks in various configurations. The i-beams need to be free and clear of any obstruction that may come in contact with the lift when loading or unloading. I don't want the hassle of removing a custom bunk system for the boat. I need to make the boat work with the trailer, not vice versa.

Professionals or just guys moving docks? I guess I'm just a dummy without an answer because I'm not sure how to respond to your question.

 

[Jonboat Jerry]

Pull vs. push, get some 2x4's for the hull to sit on while trailered and the correct straps for it.
Professionals at this or just guys moving docks?
Jamie

Jamie, from the logo on the orange shirt "Water Jack" to the advertisement on the trailer, I think they are serious pros.
respectfully....jerry Nice looking docks too.

 

[bulldog]

Would it be easier to make some sort of removable push bar in the front? Something really wide that you can strap the docks to? I'm sure some of the docks, you can slide that boat right up in between the pontoons but some of them maybe not? Pretty cool business you got there. Welcome to tinboats.

 

[WaterJack]

Yes, a removeable push bar would be ideal. I bought a 14' aluminum boat earlier today. It's considerably wider and I'm thinking of cutting the vee'd nose off to reduce the overall length by 24" and incorporate some kind of flat nose with a welded bracket for push knees. As you said, there when I need it, removed when I don't.

 

[Ranchero50]

Hey man, no disrespect, I was just wondering because it seemed a few tow rope pulls vs. rear or even side pushes would answer your handling question. I did 6 in a Navy and saw all sorts of barge handling. I was going to suggest a wider hull regardless, it'll handle better pushing or pulling.

Knees and a T brace across the front for pushing along with something to keep the bow from wanting to ride over the dock.

Maybe hybrid it, set the boat up for tow rope pulling, then spin around and push it into the shore? Then you wouldn't have to worry about jack knifing while pushing or riding over the dock so much in chop.

For the trailer some simple beam clamps would keep the boards in place and be removeable easily. Think more like drydock wedges Set it up so the boards support it 1/3 back from the bow and near the transom, then you can just toss you straps over at thos spots and not worry about tweaking the hull.

Jamie

 

[Loggerhead Mike]

That looks like it could be a fun job

 

[Jonboat Jerry]

A few more ideas.
Just looked up your site and I'm very impressed, quality all the way.
Did some surfing for push bars for boats and found this at Lifetyme Boats.
https://www.lifetymeboats.com/work/2072a-1.jpg
I would make the bars taller and groove the rubber bumpers to keep them from slipping up or down.
As for the tie down, the front has a bow eye that can be strapped to the trailer frame. On the transom,
two bow tie downs, one bolted to each side, could also be strapped to the frame of the trailer as well.
This would let you get rid of the ratcheting strap causing the twisting problem.....jerry

 

[bassboy1]

Up in Alaska, where I have been and will continue to spend the latter half of this year working, they happen to have the perfect boat for your needs. I saw 3 or 4 of the things over in Seldovia Harbor, last time I was over there, but of course, never bothered to photograph any of them, and I'll tell you they are the hardest rig to find a photo of on the interweb.

Anyway, I did find one picture of the one used for dumping the cleaning station cages in Seldovia Harbor. It is the somewhat stubby little rig in the bottom left of this picture.

That one happens to have a sort of blunt nose for pushing, but all of the others had two vertical knees like you mention, while the remainder of the hull remained the same. I believe the motorwell exists for two reasons - one keeps from shipping water in a following sea (these are often used out in the Cook Inlet as auxiliary skiffs for larger commercial boats, to the best of my knowledge - not sure what purpose they serve, exactly), and also to allow lines and nets to be pulled over the side without hanging in the outboard.

The pictured one is used for taking this square wooden dock and the aluminum catch basin to the left out past the harbor, to dump the halibut carcasses.

If I remember correctly, that rig was powered by a 50 horse. The depth of the rig gives it a very high load capacity, and the width does increase the stability. As a push rig, it is never run at speed, so the awkward shape doesn't pose ride problems. I think these are in the vicinity of 14 - 16 ft, but could be scaled down, I would think.

I know y'all probably aren't going to want to spend the money on something like this, but I'm merely posting it to show what is in existence for a purpose much like y'all have, so maybe some ideas can be stolen from it.

I think in your case, the main concern is going to be a durable rig, which to me would imply a welded rig of thicker aluminum, and increased stability, namely due to width. Chopping the bow off a 14' rig, and sticking a flat nose with push knees seems like a fairly decent idea. Many of the larger boats up here with push knees (boats up into the 30' range or so), work with that idea - conventional boat shape, with the nose just chopped off plumb, and push knees installed.